Hedonist delight at MONA FOMA

There is nothing on earth like Tasmania’s MONA. From the rumours surrounding its enigmatic, casino-busting creator, David Walsh, to its cavernous spaces more akin to a Bond villain’s lair than an art gallery, Australia’s largest privately funded museum has fast become one of the country’s seriously hot spots.

If you’re thinking it’s not worth hopping Bass Strait just for a museum, then think again. Twice a year, Walsh and his minions bring Tassie to life with MONA’s dual festivals: Dark Mofo in June and MONA FOMA in January. The two seven- to 10-day events are extensions of the museum’s bacchanalian themes, fusing international and local art, music, food and drink into a defiant and ballsy contradiction to any festival Australia has on offer.

In one day you can fill your stomach with locally sourced food while listening to Tibetan throat singing, experience sensory overload as international composers choreograph a giant industrial laser, and lose your mind to The Presets as they blow the roof off Macquarie Wharf.

The best part, however, takes place after the sun goes down. Without a doubt one of the highlights of both events is Faux Mo, the festival’s after-party. Held on each evening of the program, this sweaty, hedonistic communion will have you cheek to cheek with transvestite burlesque dancers, throwing your hands up in the air in a converted coin laundry and wishing on everything you hold dear that they don’t announce last drinks.

Uepi Island

This little tropical getaway is situated at the edge of the longest lagoon in the world, the Marovo Lagoon (nominated for World Heritage listing). The diving and snorkelling are fantastic, with the seaward edge of the island dropping down to an incredible 2,000 metres. There are six spacious bungalows for families or couples, two units and two guest rooms. It’s the type of place where 20 guests is considered a full house. Uepi is the epitome of a lost island escape but with all the comfort trimmings.

The Solomon Islands is a country just waiting to be discovered and Uepi is a must on that adventure.

Tetepare Eco Lodge

Known as a ‘conservation jewel,’ Tetepare is a unique, locally owned and managed eco lodge, housing only 13 visitors at a time. You’ll sleep in a leaf-house set on the edge of the rainforest, close to a sparkling azure lagoon. Explore rich coral reefs and cultural sites, assist rangers with conservation work and snorkel in one of the largest marine protected areas in the Solomons.

Litia Sini

In 1993, Taula and Litia Sini closed their small shop on Upolu Island and restored this once-dilapidated area into a beautiful resort. There are 16 modern yet traditional-looking Samoan beachfront falés to choose from – all with superb ocean views.

This resort is part of the Sini’s vision to welcome overseas visitors to their home, and provide a sustainable living to their children, family and village. While you’re there, take a day trip to the local village of Lalomanu, where you can have a crack at weaving with coconut fronds and help prepare an umu, the traditional Samoan feast cooked in the ground.

Te Nunoa Bungalow

This isn’t any ordinary resort. Actually, it’s not a resort at all. This is your own private guesthouse run by Laurel and James Samuela on Moorea Island. You’ll still get all the little mod cons – a barbecue, fully equipped kitchen, iPod dock and the internet – but in a truly local environment. Te Nunoa is Tahitian for ‘red sky’ and that’s exactly what you’ll see every evening from your bungalow, which sleeps up to three adults and two children.

The bungalow is surrounded by a lush garden and just across the road from a gorgeous beach. There are bikes to go exploring, and that’s completely possible on Moorea, one of the bigger islands in French Polynesia. The Samuelas also run a tour company so can organise excursions, including ATV tours, 4WD safaris to the island’s volcanic crater or a snorkel trip where you get to interact with Moorea’s friendly stingrays.

Helicopter over the Great Barrier Reef

While it will never compare to experiencing the Great Barrier Reef under the water, a helicopter trip well above offers an amazing perspective. When you’re travelling at more than 100 kilometres an hour the blues and greens below are chameleon like in their changes. The helicopter allows you to follow schools of mantas and the odd stray dugong then take off for another reef with more sea life lurking.

Your best bet is to book the transfer from Cairns to picturesque Port Douglas and not only save yourself a drive but enjoy the incredible view at the same time. You might just have to catch the bus back.

The Wilderness Lodge

Get back to nature on Gatokae Island in the Solomons’ Western Province. The wonderful Wilderness Lodge, parked on the edge of Marovo Lagoon, has just two private oceanfront bungalows, housing up to four people each, and lodge accommodation for a paltry six more. Each of the bungalows has traditional palm leaf roofs, stunning timber finishings and outdoor stonework showers heated by a wood fire, while the lodge is popular with research groups and families.

Not only will you enjoy real Melanesian hospitality with your host Waelinah, but you’ll also have access to a number of wild, uninhabited islands and the jungle-clad peak of Mt Mariu. There’s snorkelling off the island, or get one of the guides to take you on a tour of epic local spots where you’ll see coral gardens, turtles and fish of all persuasions. For divers, there’s the chance to dive at night on a thousand-foot drop-off and swim with pelagic and sharks. On land, go bird watching, hang out in a hammock by the water, take a tour of the local village or go on a hike through the interior of Gatokae Island.

Oyster Island Resort

Oyster Island Resort offers a genuine and warm Vanuatu experience. It’s located in a superb spot, only a short boat ride from Espiritu Santo and a kayak away from the Blue Hole. Choose from a simple Frangipani Bungalow or a bamboo bungalow with hammock – both styles are right on the water, so you can sit in the breeze and just stare out (occasionally a dugong swims by, so it’s not a bad pastime). You can also snorkel straight off the beach, where you can see about 50 different species of fish.

There’s plenty to do around Espiritu Santo. Local tour companies can organise horse riding, trips to the Blue Hole and Champagne Beach, and scuba diving at some of the island’s famous sites like Million Dollar Point and SS President Coolidge.

Nusa Island Retreat

‘It’s not about the experience of luxury but rather, the luxury of the experience’ states the website of this eco-sensitive, family-run retreat located in New Ireland near Kavieng. Set on a beautiful sandy point and surrounded by spectacular swimming and surfing beaches, and some excellent dive sites, you can do as much or as little as you like here.


It offers several simple, high-quality overwater and beach bungalows that sleep up to six people. For larger groups there’s also a large two-storey house.