The Daintree’s Kuku Yalanji Country

Explore the beauty of the Daintree Rainforest, with a local Aboriginal guide on Walkabout Cultural Adventures.

There is no better way to experience the region, one of the best biologically diverse rainforests in the world, and only place where two natural World Heritage sites meet – the Far North Queensland coastline and Great Barrier Reef meeting the edge of the Daintree Rainforest.

Your guides offer insight into the marine life along the beautiful coastline of the Port Douglas area and reveal local swimming spots in the rainforest. Juan, the owner is a Kuku Yalanji man from the Daintree Mossman area, with plenty of local bush knowledge and Aboriginal history to share. His aim is to preserve the knowledge and continue the connection between the people and the land by interacting with visitors and sharing the Kuku Yalanji history and cultural practises.

Experience the unique cultural connection to the land. Learn to throw a traditional fishing spear and have a taste of seasonal bush tucker, while seeing the best attractions on a half day or full day tour. The full day tour includes a guided rainforest walk, visit to Mossman Gorge and other culturally significant areas.

Adventure paddle with Aboriginal guides

On Wajaana Yaam Adventure Tours, Gumbaynggirr/Bundjalung man Clark Webb and his fellow Aboriginal guides share ancient stories in the extraordinary natural landscape of Gumbaynggirr Country, on the New South Wales mid-North Coast.

Stand-up paddle boarding or kayak through one of three Coffs Harbour’s Solitary Islands Marine Park adventure tour locations (the Moonee, Coffs and Red Rock Creeks). Guest will paddle with direct descendants of the world’s first stand up paddlers and connect to land and sea through stories and language.

Visitors can jump aboard a full-day tour, which pairs a paddle with the Giingan Gumbaynggirr Cultural Experience. The cultural offering is a walking tour through Orara East State Forest, with stunning views from the Forest Sky Pier and an opportunity to feel a deeper connection to the land. This tour takes place at an important cultural site of the Gumbaynggirr people with guides sharing intimate stories, songs and language and imparting their knowledge on the use of native plants.

By taking part in the experience, guests are making a direct contribution to the revitalisation of Gumbaynggirr language and culture and contributing to the well-being of the community. Wajaana Yaam Adventure Tours work closely with the community and elders and this social enterprise provides an employment pathway for the youth and community through knowledge of language and culture.

Explore ancient landscapes in WA

Explore remote, ancient landscapes in Western Australia with Kingfisher Tours, with one day and multi-day expeditions of the Kimberley region with local Aboriginal guides.

Travellers can fly over the Bungle Bungles, walk in a World-Heritage listed landscape and visit remote communities with guides, who share stories of friends and families, and impart cultural knowledge. Learn about bush medicine, native plant identification, and be immersed in Indigenous storytelling by the Traditional Owners of these lands.

One of the most stunning tours is a Bungles Day Trek, flying over Lake Kununurra, Lake Argyle and the Osmond Ranges, and a Welcome to Country ceremony by a local Aboriginal guide. Visitors walk up the Echidna lookout, and hear stories of native animals, and then explore the spectacular chasm.

Guides sing traditional songs of the gorges that are thousands of years old and explain the cultural and geological history of the area. The stunning dome-like rock formations are estimated to be around 350 million years old. Aboriginal people have inhabited the area for 40,000 years and bring this stunning UNESCO Natural World Heritage site to life.

Get to know the Top End

Explore Arnhem Land, Kimberley region and Kakadu with one of the most recognised and respected guides in Australia – Sab Lord of Lords Kakadu & Arnhemland Safaris.

These Top End adventures allow the traveller a unique insight into Aboriginal culture, flora and fauna through the knowledge of traditional land owners. Sab and his expert guides host camping experiences at his permanent bush camp in Kakadu National Park. Or be one of the lucky one to join his accommodated safaris for private groups – he has permits to visit the beautiful Koolpin Gorge in Kakadu National Park, which few are fortunate enough to see.

Arnhem Land has always been Aboriginal land, and with permits having been required to enter since 1931, protection of Arnhem Land means that it has remained untouched and pristine. Sab works closely with other award-winning operators such as Bamurru Plains, Cicada Lodge and Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris to ensure that all tours are of a high quality.

These tours offer privileged access to the entire area and can generally take guests anywhere they want to go across the region, matched to the guests’ interest. This includes photography enthusiasts who want to photograph birds, culture and landscape, as well as those who want to gain a deeper understanding of the Indigenous people of the region. The rock art at Injalak Hill in particular is a sight to see and local guides explain its significance that dates back to between 100 and 8,000 ago.

Sab and his small number of guides operate exclusive and personalised private tours through Kakadu and Arnhem Land during the dry season – April and October. Accommodation options range from world class luxury lodges to comfortable private camps, with permanent tents, with floors, beds and solar lights and fans. Who says you have to rough it in the Top End!

Volcanic discoveries at Shikotsu-Toya

Located in south-east Hokkaido, Shikotsu-Toya National Park is a living breathing museum of volcanoes.

Experience seasonal scenery and encounter local wildlife at Shikotsu-Toya National Park at the two major caldera crater lakes, Lake Shikotsu and Lake Toya, as well as volcanos Mt. Yotei, Mt. Usu, and Mt. Tarumae.

And no, you don’t have to be a volcanologists to enjoy Shikotsu-Toya National Park. There is so much too see and do here that you’ll be scrambling to get through it all. There are loads of activities and much to explore including a plethora of onsen (hot springs), paddling on Lake Shikotsu on a Canadian canoe, rowing across Lake Shikotsu on a clear bottom kayak, and freshwater diving in ice-free Lake Shikotsu.

Whether you are an ornithologist or just a nature lover, there’s plenty of wild birds to observe as Lake Shikotsu is the home to a third of all species of wild birds. There’s also the cute and adorable Hokkaido squirrel and deer to spot. Climb the rugged Mt. Tarumae with a professional guide and don’t miss the spectacular views of the national park from the summit! Other results of volcanic activity, including sulfuric eruptions and other geothermal phenomena can also be observed, earning the national park a reputation as a “museum of volcanos.”

The Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival is the cherry on top with intricate ice sculptures made with water blown by the wind from Lake Shikotsu, which freezes to create fabulous forms. The ice sculptures glitter “Lake Shikotsu Blue”during the day, and are illuminated at night with colorful lights. On weekends and holidays see fireworks displays after dark and when it’s time to unwind, there is no better place than the natural hot springs of Jozankei Onsen.

Dive into Gunggandji Sea Country

Explore pristine coral reefs and learn about the world’s oldest living culture in Gunggandji Sea Country, Queensland with Dreamtime Dive + Snorkel.

Traditional custodians have passed down their Dreamtime stories over tens of thousands of years including fascinating stories about Australia’s most amazing marine life. The Gunggandji Sea Country experience gives travellers the unique opportunity to gain an insight into a diverse ecosystem on two premium outer reef sites from traditional landowners.

Milln, Flynn and Thetford Reef, located on Gunggandji Sea Country are home to some of the most idyllic snorkelling and diving on the Great Barrier Reef. Travellers can snorkel right off the boat, join a guided snorkel tour or even try an introductory scuba dive. These reefs are chosen for their superior coral quality, colour and overall diversity of reef life.

Located further off-shore away from coastal rivers and streams, outer reefs are found in clean coral sea water with higher coral densities and less sediment (sand) resulting in maximum water clarity in all weather conditions. The Outer Reef Wall is a renowned dive location by local dive enthusiasts and keen snorkelers and reaches depths of over 30 metres.

You’ll be in good hands with the guides who have a special connection to the country, an insider’s knowledge of the reef, and a passion for sustainable tourism and educational adventures. After visiting the reefs, enjoy a live demonstration of traditional dance, and didgeridoo performance on the land. Dreamtime is the only Great Barrier Reef cruise that allows guests to interact with original clap sticks, and fire poles.

Remote heaven at MacEacherns Camp

It starts with a four-hour drive from Cairns, heading southwest to the Gulf Savannah. Once there, you’ll be welcomed to the country by local Gugu Badhun people and delivered to MacEacherns Camp, your home for the next four nights.

MacEacherns Camp is set on the 70,000 acre Kinrara Station where you will settle into a safari tent, complete with queen-size pillowtop bed and hot shower, on the edge of the wetlands then be ready to explore this immense landscape. Spend most of the day adventuring – swimming in waterfalls, kayaking, birdwatching, hiking, visiting the homestead – interspersed with excellent meals back at camp.

If you want to experience a slice of remote Australia, this is an amazing experience and the cherry on top is that it’s open to just 12 guests at a time during fewer than a dozen expeditions each year.

Crowne Plaza Coogee Beach

For a city that prides itself on its beaches, Sydney lets visitors down when it comes to hotels overlooking the waves. Crowne Plaza Coogee Beach is an oceanfront property in the eastern suburbs that isn’t new, but it has had a massive tart-up.

The upgraded rooms have a beachy feel with photos of the local area on the walls. Not that you’ll be paying attention once you pull back the curtains – just outside is the bay, with Wedding Cake Island at its heart.

It’s an easy commute into the CBD, but there’s plenty around Coogee to keep you busy, including long walks and good snorkelling. The hotel even has two restaurants: Shutters (top), with its Miami vibe, and Estate Taqueria.

Gone for a Song

According to oft-repeated hikers’ wisdom, cotton kills. It’s a dictum that rings true across most of Australia, as anyone who’s ever been caught out in a cold, wet t-shirt can attest. But on the Jatbula Trail, an outdoor-ed teacher named Elly has turned that belief on its head.

With the accumulated wisdom of a season spent in the Top End, she’s hiking across the southern edge of the Arnhem Land escarpment with an infectious grin and a cotton shirt that she drenches at every opportunity. “Cotton cools,” she says, extending her o’s with a laugh as she puts the sopping wet tee back on.

In nearby Katherine the temperature is close to 40 degrees. Here on the bare escarpment the rocky ground radiates the heat back up at us and it’s hotter still. For the first time I can recall, I curse my synthetic moisture-wicking shirt.

“You’re going to get pretty warm,” the grizzled ranger warned me at the compulsory pre-hike briefing. It echoed advice I’d already heard, but I’d also been told repeatedly that it was worth braving the heat for one of the most beautiful hikes in Australia. Our party of five includes Dan, a film producer from Sydney, and his German friend Anne, who lives up to the stereotype by being the most organised of us; Tom, a perpetually smiling hydrologist who has spent much of his career in the South Australian desert; and Chris, a Melbourne-based journalist who insists he’s not a hipster hiker, but who bought a new portable coffeemaker specially for this trip.

Pre-warned of the soaring temperatures, we’re keen to get an early start and rise before dawn on day one. Skittish wallabies form a guard of honour by the roadside on the half-hour drive from Katherine to Nitmiluk National Park. A golden glow is creeping above the horizon and our windscreen frames the fast-rising sun directly ahead.

After a short boat ride across the Katherine River, we step off between broad trees and pandanus palms into knee-high grass that shimmers in the early morning glow. Closer to ground level, the view is slightly less magical. A disturbingly large pyramid of dung has been deposited in the middle of the path and, despite earlier voicing his hope for plenty of wildlife sightings, Dan takes one look at the giant mound and declares, “I don’t want to see a buffalo any more.”

The first section of the walk follows the base of the escarpment and we enjoy the shadow it casts even in the early morning cool. It won’t last long; as we walk, the sun creeps over burnt orange rocks, dry yellow grass and spindly white gums with crowns of green. Climbing out of the shade and onto the escarpment, the air seems to hum gently with heat and I’m grateful that the first day is a short one. With only 8.3 kilometres to cover we reach camp by 10am.

By then it’s already baking hot and the sound of running water is like music to my ears. Without hesitation I drop my pack, cast off my clothes and follow the sound to a series of small falls at Biddlecombe Cascades. Despite it being the dry season, they look anything but to me, and I gleefully jump in the top pool then scramble down over the rocks to get a strong massage at the bottom of the falls. Because we’re on top of the escarpment, there’s no need to worry about crocs – we checked, multiple times – but I still start when I hear Chris screaming my name. Rushing back to camp, I find a jagged hole torn in the top of my pack, muesli everywhere and even a few zips tugged open. I shake my fist at six red-tailed black cockatoos sitting watchfully in a nearby tree before a harsh, mournful caw behind me informs me that I’ve accused the wrong birds.

Having secured my bags more carefully, I head back to the cascades. With bubbling spas, placid pools ringed by sparkling sundew plants, rocks perfect for jumping off and even a small cave hidden behind a fall it’s like a private waterpark. And, for a few hours, it’s all ours. One of the great joys of the Jatbula is that it’s never crowded. A maximum of 30 permits are issued each day (15 for self-supported hikers, 15 for tour operators), but we’re walking late in the season and only have four other hikers with us at camp each night.

The trail guidelines ask hikers not to wear sunscreen because it damages the waterholes. Knowing this, we plan to take regular breaks in the shade, but camping next to the falls proves too tempting. After a day spent lounging by the pool, Hollywood Dan looks like a red-breasted robin and serves as a warning to the rest of us throughout the hike.

The waterholes provide much needed respite from the heat, but they’re far from the only highlights of the trail. During the days we walk through stone country, where rocks criss-crossed with fracture lines are surrounded by dry grass the colour of straw. Bloodwood trees ooze bright red sap that crystallises where it falls and sparkles in the sun like piles of garnets. We walk between termite mounds scattered like gravestones in a poorly organised cemetery – over six days they change with the colour of the soil from white to yellow and deep red before turning a tired, dusty grey. The clifftop views from the edge of the escarpment – rocky red bluffs that seem to glow in the early morning sun protecting a broad valley of dry yellow grass streaked with white gum trunks – are worth the days of walking.

Even more arresting is the rock art hidden under overhangs near the track, evidence of the area’s continuing importance to the Jawoyn Traditional Owners. This is unforgiving country and water is essential to survival. It’s why the Jatbula Trail follows a Jawoyn Songline, an ancient route that connects the permanent water sources along the escarpment. These magical spots have hosted countless generations and we get a sense of that longstanding connection at the trail’s most spectacular stop.

The air in the Amphitheatre is still and muggy, but the wide natural bowl offers welcome protection from the sun. Water seeps through large hanging gardens of ferns before trickling down to a thin creek on the valley floor. On the surrounding rock face, more than a hundred open-air art galleries depict Jawoyn People, spirits and animals in ghostly white, mustard yellow and deep red ochre.

Some are recent additions, but others have been here for thousands of years. And they cover every available flat surface. It’s a place of wonder, but also great peace, and we linger for hours before resuming our walk, marvelling at the longstanding connection with Country in a place where past, present and future seem to fuse.

We take our time rearranging our packs before continuing, and our ever-smiling hydrologist uses the brief pause to whip out a book. His propensity to read at every drink break has earned him the nickname Two Page Tom, but there are times when the stultifying heat means I’d happily let him finish an entire novel before emerging from the shade.

On my map the Jatbula Trail looks like an easy hike. It’s mostly flat and the distances are manageable, but it’s absolutely crucial to take regular breaks because of the sapping heat. The 62-kilometre walk takes five or six days and, as we traverse the sandstone plateau, the environment becomes increasingly tropical. Dry buffalo wallows appear with increasing frequency, along with piles of fresh dung and wafts of pungent urine. It’s a wild landscape, a place where humans seem like the most temporary of visitors, and I keep expecting to round a corner and find a giant beast with wide horns ready to chase us out. But the stillness is broken only by the chirp of cicadas (whose “nit, nit, nit” call gives the park its name) and the attention-demanding screech of a sulphur-crested cockatoo. Occasionally a grasshopper buzzes in front of me, roaring like a biplane as it takes off.

We walk past sharp clumps of sword grass that threaten to slice any exposed skin, beneath lush palms and across bone-dry riverbeds. This is the paradox of the Top End in the dry season – it’s an incredibly fertile landscape with no visible water.

It makes us appreciate the waterholes by each campsite even more. At Sandy Camp, a giant circular pool is ringed by tall paperbarks full of birdlife and grevillea whose flowers resemble long, curling eyelashes. Scraggly blue-winged kookaburras, unrecognisable as relatives of their southern cousins, give a stifled laugh and the iridescent wings of rainbow bee-eaters catch the sun. There are even enough fish to attract cormorants, although they disperse as we gleefully dive in.

“How’s the water?” Elly calls out as she strolls into camp with a grin. It’s perfect, I tell her. A cotton t-shirt might be a surprisingly good outfit on this Australian hike, but fortunately it’s not the only way to stay cool on the Jatbula.

Go Wild in Gariwerd

Thirteen days, 160 kilometres and the ancient mountainous region of the Grampians National Park (Gariwerd in the Jardwadjali language) in northwest Victoria. If you're looking for a less vigorous trek, make a plan to tackle Stage One, a two-night, 36-kilometre loop from Halls Gap to Bugiga Hiker Camp and back via Borough Huts Campground. There’s also the option of organising a pick-up from that final site to make it an overnight trip, which is my grand plan.

The hike shows off two of the park’s popular peaks, the Pinnacle and Mount Rosea, each of which comes with a steep climb rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and farmland. It’s a real tease, giving you a sneak peek into what will undoubtedly be a special experience when the full trail opens.

Day 1 | Halls Gap to Bugiga Hiker Camp, 8.6km

I wake early at Plantation Campground, just outside Halls Gap. After fuelling up on coffee at local cafe Harvest, I start my solo trip from the head of the Wonderland Loop trail on a clear, hot summer day. The trail steers out from behind the Halls Gap Caravan Park and quickly enters a beautiful gum forest, before crossing a dry river and meandering beneath soaring sandstone rocks. A steady ascent leads to a series of pools called Venus Baths, which, in rainier seasons, would be filled with crisp, cool water. After a seriously long drought and an already blistering summer, it’s unsurprising that only two pools have water trickling into them. Regardless, I consider the shoulder-deep water enough to warrant a break to cool down.

An exposed rocky path leads up through the Grand Canyon. Ancient sandstone forms boulders and twisted chasms and I have fond flashbacks to visiting this area as a kid. The landscape dwarfed me back then, and it still does.

Families and groups visiting from the city join me on the trail to conquer the Pinnacle as a day hike. After a lunch break overlooking Halls Gap and Lake Bellfield, I quickly lose the crowds as I continue my trek toward Bugiga Hiker Camp, the first of many new camping grounds built to service the Grampians Peaks Trail. After a few hours walking in direct sunlight, the last section between Sundial Carpark and the camp is a welcome relief, shaded, as it is, by tall grass plants and banksias.

Bugiga Hiker Camp is a sustainability-focused stopover consisting of 12 round wooden platforms connected by a boardwalk. Each of the pre-booked platforms has enough space for a tent and faces out to the eucalypt forest or Mount William. There’s a central shelter built from rusted red iron, two pit
toilets and a water tank. Everything else has to be brought in and out by hikers, including between three and four litres of drinking water for each person. Fires are not permitted.

Here I while away the afternoon reading and watching small robins hunt for seeds until the sun slowly sets behind Mount William. Only two other people arrive for the night. The definition of solitude!

Day 2 | Bugiga Camp to Borough Huts Campground, 13.8km

The start of the second day’s hike moves through tall eucalypt forest before opening up to a rocky path that seems to head continuously upward. With a pack on it is definitely strenuous, but I pause frequently to look back across the valley. It’s here I start to appreciate the scale of this national park, which covers more than 1,600 hectares.

Gariwerd is a spiritual place for the Djab Wurrung and Jardwadjali people, as it is central to Dreaming stories and once provided an abundance of food, water and shelter. More than 90 per cent of Victoria’s rock art sites are here, in Gariwerd.

On reaching the vertical lookout at Gate of the East Wind, an expansive view of Lake Bellfield and the surrounding mountains is laid out before me. The path then twists and turns beneath and around boulders, requiring a fair amount of rock hopping and climbing along the ridgeline.

After about two-and-a-half hours following the trail towards the sky, I reach the peak of Mount Rosea, a rocky plateau with an elevation of 1,009 metres and 360-degree views over Mount William and the Serra Range. I bask in the sun drinking coffee and snacking, a few other people nearby doing the same.

After some rest, I embark on the descent, following a series of large rock steps into a banksia- and fern-lined forest. By this point, I’m fairly fatigued, but the path soon becomes an easy bushwalking track shaded by gums. It meanders until it reaches a clearing with a small river crossing and signs for Borough Huts Campground. It’s possible to stay here for the night and take the 14.2 kilometre trail around Lake Bellfield at the base of the Mount Williams Range, finishing at Halls Gap. For me, though, this hike is over. I’ve arranged the shuttle service and my car is waiting for me. Now, I’ll bide my time until December, when the entire trail is due to open.

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