When the only neighbouring attraction is a service station littered with truckies and fast food restaurants it doesn’t take much to stand out. Yet the Autobahn Church Siegerland goes above and beyond to demand the attention of every passing motorist, with a curious modern design best described as a large, white replica of Batman’s headpiece. Its interior is equally bewitching, with a timber honeycomb dome and simple, box-like chairs. Situated on the busy A45 in Wilnsdorf, an hour’s drive west of Cologne, this chapel offers travellers space to reflect and worship or just relax beside the frantic pace of the motorway. Although this religious edifice is not the only one of its kind (there are some 40 other autobahn churches in Germany), Siegerland is arguably one of the country’s most original. Ducking across the highway for a quick roadside coffee post-sermon will have you revived and ready to hit the open road once again.
Distant benediction King George Island, Antarctica
A crowdfunded Russian Orthodox Church perched at the top of a craggy hill, on an island at the end of the world. No your eyes do not deceive you – this tiny clapboard structure, shackled to the coast, can weather polar winters, and has done so since its consecration in 2004. Situated on one of the most isolated and barren stretches of land on the planet, Trinity Church is manned year-round by two priests who hail from the Trinity Lavra of St Sergius, which is said to be the most important monastery in all of Russia. Aside from delivering mass to the resident population (which fluctuates between 100 denizens in winter and 500 in summer) the clergymen stationed here are also responsible for the occasional baptism and even wedding. The surreal surrounds of this lone sub-zero church might just offer churchgoers a spiritual awakening.
When life gives you human remains, make art. That appears to be the principle woodcarver František Rint followed when he revamped the Sedlec Ossuary in the 1870s. His interior design arsenal? Tens of thousands of bones. And the result? A spellbindingly macabre interior festooned with skulls, femurs and tibias. Even the imposing candelabras, coat of arms, chalices and bunting are fashioned out of skeletons from the plague of 1318. Located in the suburbs of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed city of Kutná Hora, about an hour’s drive east of Prague, this small Roman Catholic chapel was originally built in 1400. For anyone touring Europe and suffering from a serious case of church fatigue, this kooky house of worship will no doubt offer some respite.
Almost abandoned due to lack of funds, the glorious 15-metre tall Thorncrown Chapel is a feat of both persistence and faith. Back in the 70s, retired schoolteacher Jim Reed noticed tourists frequently roamed through his property to scope out the beauty of the Ozark Mountains. Rather than fence them out, he teamed up with renowned architect E. Fay Jones to develop Thorncrown, a place of worship immersed in a forest of oaks, pines and maples. As soon as it opened in 1980 the structure began raking in accolades, including the Design of the Year Award bestowed by the American Institute of Architects in 1981. Constructed with 425 windows holding 152 metres of glass and a roof soaring to the heavens, the building blends in with its surroundings so well that you’ll forget you’re inside a church. Settle into a pew atop the stone floor and worship at the altar of Mother Nature.
Who would’ve thought that Berlin warehouse rave-style lighting and religious symbology could intertwine so harmoniously? Colombian Catholics appear to have stumbled upon this exact enlightened conclusion 25 years ago, while transforming an abandoned salt mine into an illuminating site of supplication. The glowing lights add more than a dash of the 90s to the cavernous space that featured a (rather more modest) holy site even in the 30s, when miners would pray before a day of hard labour. Now you no longer need to don a hard hat – or fear for your life – to journey to its depths, 180 metres underground. Instead you can simply marvel at its 14 small chapels and carved salt sculptures, such as a five-metre tall cross, all dedicated to Our Lady of Rosary, the patron saint of miners. Should you ignore basic hygiene and sneak a quick lick of the cathedral’s walls, you’ll taste 250-million-year-old salt. And if all that sodium’s left you thirsty there’s even Colombian coffee on offer in an adjoining subterranean cafe.
The 17 rooms at Hotel du Petit Moulin are a lesson in combining colour, texture and a touch of history. Fashion guru Christian Lacroix has given each its own flamboyant style, with panoramic wallpapers, patterned soft furnishings and rich hues.
The building was constructed in the seventeenth century as a boulangerie – it’s said Victor Hugo used to buy his bread from here – but there’s no restaurant on site.
Thankfully, it’s also located in one of Paris’s best neighbourhoods, so a short stroll takes you to fine diners, charming cafes and a host of other attractions. These boutique digs have a nearby sister hotel, Pavillion de la Reine, where guests can use the spa and fitness room, and borrow bicycles for pedalling around town.
Whitepod is a high-tech eco-camp with all the comforts of a hotel in the stunning Swiss Alps.
Spend your days paragliding, dog sledding or skiing virtually empty pistes. Then gather around a campfire for aperitifs and cheese fondue, before you snuggle up in one of nine ultra-insulated domes. The pods are lit by lanterns, heated by wood-burning stoves and are hooked up to a private water source to minimise daily water and electricity consumption. These 18 Pods and 9 self contained suites-chalets have all the luxuries of a traditional hotel and Whitepod even operates is own ski-slopes and restaurant.
Live out your James Bond ski-chase fantasy and end it with a romantic eco and bunk down in these cosy igloo-like dwellings. A unique concept that won the Responsible Tourism Award for Innovation.
Located at an altitude of 1,800 metres, this futuristic five-star resort even has its own mountain railcar, whisking guests directly to the nearby skiing and hiking area. With panoramic views of snow covered mountains or lush green grass, you can’t help your breath being taken away by this magical landscape.
Designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, Tschuggen Grand Hotel lies in the very middle of the Swiss Alps and is split over four levels. At the top is the Arosa Mountain Grotto, which from the outside resembles a cluster of glassy mountain peaks, self-proclaimed wellness hotel, four restaurants, lounge and a bar.
Its origins are rather hazy. While the flaky pastry rich with nuts and honey is eaten in many parts of the world, no one agrees on where or when the first incarnation of what we now call baklava developed.
Some claim the Assyrians were the first to layer flat bread, honey and nuts as far back as eighth century BCE. In the second century BCE the Romans prepared the honey-covered placenta cake, which thankfully bore no resemblance to any part of the female anatomy. Then came the Byzantine Empire, with its heart in what is now modern-day Turkey. It spread its influence across parts of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, so it’s no surprise there are countries in all of these parts claiming the oozy, nutty pastries as their own.
For now though I’m in Azerbaijan and my attention is focused on one regional variation, Baku pakhlava. My first stop is Ichari Shahar, the ancient walled city at the heart of modern-day Baku. The architecture of the atmospheric, UNESCO-listed old town almost distracts me from my calling until I catch a sight to behold: row upon row of glorious, shiny pakhlava.
There is, however, more than one variety on display. That’s because each of Azerbaijan’s regions has its own style of pakhlava, food photographer and recipe developer Samira Damirova tells me. Samira, who was originally from Baku but now lives in Australia, explains there’s also brightly coloured Quba pakhlava filled with coriander, walnuts and saffron, Gandja pakhlava resplendent with its 18 layers of filo, and the famed Sheki pakhlava, made from rice flour and finished with saffron decorations.
We continue on to a bakery called Sunbul where I’m to learn how to make the delicacy. I arrive at the address expecting an elegant shopfront; instead, it’s an apartment block. The industrial staircase leads towards the gentle hum of female voices, and I’m welcomed warmly into Elmira’s home, where three aproned women await, rolling pins in hand.
“We do things a bit differently here,” baker Nigar tells me with a big smile. “The main two products we make are Shirvanshah pakhlava and Semeni halvasi.”
The dough for these sweets is made using the ‘milk’ produced when sprouted wheat is ground and strained, which is then mixed with flour. “We only sweeten them with a little honey,” Nigar continues. “They are so healthy for you.”
The aim at Sunbul is to create handmade Azerbaijani treats for visitors to take home rather than a box of mass-produced sweets. “This is the real deal,” says Nigar. “When most tourists come they don’t know what they are buying and how it should taste. Some makers will not put nuts in every layer – they’ll scrimp on the ingredients. It compromises the taste and quality. We are keeping to the old traditions and you can taste the difference.”
As I pop a piece into my mouth, I nod in agreement. The flavour is intense. The spices sing, the pastry flakes and melts in my mouth, and I’m not left with a layer of sugar masking my taste buds.
We spend three hours in the kitchen. Every step in the creation of the pakhlava is carefully undertaken by one of the women: grinding the walnuts by hands, kneading the dough, rolling out the pastry into eight fine layers, sprinkling each with just the right amount of spicy nut mixture, then cutting, baking, pouring over melted butter and finally drenching the cooked pastries with syrup. Traditionally, this process would bring women together, with each one taking control of one part of the method.
“At home we can’t make it as beautiful as a factory,” says Elmira. I beg to differ. These are the most beautiful pakhlava I have ever seen. “It’s still our first year of business and things are growing so fast,” she continues. “Next time you visit we hope to be in an industrial kitchen.”
Just a few months later, I check back and they have indeed moved into new, expanded premises. More pakhlava for all can only be a good thing.
SWEET SENSATIONS
Here are two of the best spots to try pakhlava in Azerbaijan.
SUNBUL AZERBAIJAN SWEETS
This boutique bakery in the heart of Baku’s old town specialises in handmade pakhlava and halva from traditional recipes. Karvansara Bazaar, Icheri Sheher, Baku
ALIAHMED SWEETS
It’s not uncommon for people to drive here from all over Azerbaijan to get a fix of Sheki pakhlava. The line out the door all day speaks for itself. 122 Mirze Feteli Axundov küçesi, Sheki
For someone who considers herself relatively fit, it’s safe to say I’m struggling. I take a moment to stop and catch my breath, mumbling something about “that view!” and taking a couple more photos – an excuse I’ve now rolled out an embarrassing number of times – and stand there panting as quietly as possible.
It’s not like I’m lying about that view though, or the fact that I can’t resist whipping out my camera time and time again. Surrounded by jagged, snow-capped mountain peaks, pea-green hills and the prettiest cows I’ve ever seen – seriously, they’re wearing embroidered cowbells around their necks – it’s near impossible to walk around and not feel the urge to capture this sublime, takes-your-breath-away beauty at all times.
I’m huffing and puffing and admiring the view along the Bear Trek, a section of the 5,000-kilometre Via Alpina, a long-distance hiking route that links Monaco on the Côte d’Azur with Trieste on the Italian and Slovenian border. This particular portion of the trail begins in Meiringen, a Swiss village in the Interlaken–Oberhasli administrative district, and ends in Lenk. We’ll only be going as far as Mürren though.
Words of encouragement from our fearless leader, Birgit, ring out across the valley. “Not far to go now,” she calls out to our group of four women, pointing to the chalet-style building in the distance. Considering she hasn’t hiked in her native Switzerland in years, Birgit sure knows her way around these high-altitude tracks. She turns and powers up the incline ahead of us with such ease and lightness I can’t help but feel equal parts impressed and envious.
Trying to match Birgit’s energy levels I soldier on, one foot in front of the other. And she’s right, within 15 minutes we’ve made it to Grosse Scheidegg, a mountain pass that sits at an elevation of 1,962 metres and boasts epic views of the Eiger peak and Grindelwald, a postcard-perfect village in the valley below.
After leaving Meiringen bright and early at around 9am, this is our first major stop for the day, so we settle in for lunch at the Berghotel. With just over six kilometres under our belt (mostly uphill, I should add) we’re suddenly ravenous, and Birgit orders accordingly. An enormous platter of cheeses, cured meats and pickled vegetables arrives first, followed by steaming hot bowls of gerstensuppe, a hearty barley soup served with a side of sausage that proves the ultimate hiking fuel. It’s all washed down with a round of Rivellas, a Swiss soft drink made from milk whey that’s kind of like a healthy version of Red Bull.
And because this is Switzerland, no meal is complete without a hot chocolate and a slice of cake – or, in our case, two slices: pflaumenkuchen, a traditional plum tart, and cremeschnitte, a custard, Chantilly cream and puff pastry creation.
Our bellies well and truly full, we roll out of the Berghotel and make tracks for Grindelwald, all of us grateful the next eight or so kilometres are downhill.
While organising a hiking trip like this by yourself isn’t an impossibly hard task, we’ve been lucky to have a bit of a helping hand. UTracks is a Europe-based active travel company that specialises in walking and cycling itineraries. Offering 450 small group and self-guided tours across almost 50 countries, its aim is to provide travellers with as much – or as little – assistance, flexibility and freedom required in order to best explore the most incredible corners of Europe.
In our case, this means our accommodation along the Bear Trek has been booked in advance (all charming Swiss-style residences with breakfasts included). A welcome pack featuring maps, a guide book, luggage tags and other handy tips is provided. Then there’s my favourite UTracks inclusion: every morning our luggage is picked up from our hotel and transported to the next one. That’s right – there’s no need to haul 23-kilogram backpacks along these tough routes since all we need to take with us every day is a small daypack containing our walking essentials.
You could say it’s hiking made easy. All the stress of finding and booking places to stay overnight is removed, and the already well-marked and well-maintained routes are made all the more navigable thanks to the immense amount of helpful information on offer. As a hiking novice who’s never tackled more than a couple of laps of Melbourne’s Tan track, it’s the ideal entry point to a surprisingly addictive world of switchbacks, false peaks and fancy Kathmandu gear.
After a good night’s sleep at Hotel Kirchbühl, a blindingly gorgeous alpine lodge complete with brightly coloured geraniums cascading over the balconies, I pull on my newly purchased hiking boots – now looking slightly more worn after a day’s worth of trekking – and head down to meet the group for stage two of our journey.
The Grindelwald to Wengen section of the Bear Trek is the most well known, passing by the world-famous Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains. It’s also the busiest part of the trail, and you can’t move more than a couple of hundred metres without hearing a cheerful “grüezi!” (a casual Swiss-German greeting) as someone walks by.
With 16 kilometres ahead of us, and everyone feeling a teeny bit fatigued in the legs, we decide to save about two hours of uphill climbing and catch the train to the small settlement of Alpiglen. It’s worth it for more spectacular valley views, and it’s nice to be able to enjoy the scenery without the worry of tripping over our own feet.
Once off the train the hard slog begins again, although having now properly acclimatised to the altitude and with a couple of good, filling Swiss meals powering us, we find ourselves setting a cracking pace up to Kleine Scheidegg. If it wasn’t for that familiar urge to stop and take a million photos again, we joke, we could set a record pace.
As the gateway to Jungfraujoch – a glacier saddle connecting the Jungfrau and Mönch mountains that’s also known as the Top of Europe – Kleine Scheidegg is swarming with people even though it’s almost the end of the summer season. Home to several restaurants and shops, the historic Hotel Bellevue des Alpes (built in 1840) and a railway station that connects with the Jungfraubahn, it offers plenty to see and do.
Keen to continue our good hiking form, we resist the lure of an ice-cold Rivella, take our snaps of the legendary Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau summits (Kleine Scheidegg is the best place along the trail to capture gorgeous, unobscured shots of the trio) and continue on. Once we have moved through the bustling mountain pass it gets a lot quieter on the trail, and our group of five moves into single file, each of us happy to plod along in silence for a while, simply content with walking in the shadow of these majestic marvels, enjoying nothing more than the region’s natural beauty.
There’s something almost meditative about this particular section; the trees get thicker, the ravines steeper, the path narrower and the views more dramatic. It doesn’t have that classic Swiss feel about it – there’s hardly a cow or flower-adorned house to be seen – but it’s special in its own wild way.
Unsure of just how far we have left on the trail, we turn a corner and spot Wengen in the distance, but a far more welcome sight in the foreground: Restaurant Allmend. This delightful wooden inn is a cosy mecca for skiers during winter, as well as exhausted hikers like us who are in desperate need of a cake break.
We settle in on the balcony, which overlooks the magnificent Lauterbrunnen Valley, and much to our relief Birgit once again takes the lead on food choices. She orders what is fast becoming our staple hiking diet: a cheese and meat platter, cake and hot chocolates. Although this time there’s an added kick: a few cheeky shots of schnapps “to make sure we make it the rest of the way to Wengen”, Birgit justifies.
As delicious mouthfuls of food are shovelled down, schnapps necked and the conversation turns to tomorrow’s plans (an excursion up to the Schilthorn), I can’t help but think that if this is what hiking is all about in Switzerland – walk, eat, admire the scenery, repeat – then sign me up for the next trek. I’m sold!
Could Copenhagen be the European capital of cool? Oh, yes, it could. Beyond the rich ribbons of history and picturesque neoclassical architecture of the city centre, former industrial areas are being revitalised. Hunt them out and you’ll discover slaughterhouses and factories finding new life as nightclubs and beer bars.
If it’s actual after-dark action you seek – dark being the crucial word – then eschew the endless summer sunlight and beeline here in winter when the sun sets early and the hygge (cosy) hipster nooks spark with action.
Socially progressive, design forward, global thinking and life loving, it’s no wonder the Danes are consistently rated as among the happiest people in the world. Rug up and head out to discover the warm embrace of Denmark’s hottest ’hoods.
4pm
In keeping with other global creative urban centres, formerly dilapidated areas are being transformed into hamlets of hip. Jægersborggade is the ultimate strolling street. The cobble-stoned strip in Nørrebro sprouts more than 40 art galleries, vintage shops, bars and restaurants in just 300 metres. There’s Grød, a porridge-only restaurant, and an all-female jewellery collective at Lady Fingers. But fuel the night with caffeine at Coffee Collective, the crown jewel of Copenhagen’s third wave coffee movement.
Oh, happy accident. Opposite Coffee Collective is wine bar Terroiristen, studded with tiny tables and saturated with vinous aromas. As other shops pull their shutters, the windows of this small space begin to fog as the crowd packs in. Natural wines are the heroes here and small yield, small batch grapes from Eastern Europe are being thrust into the limelight like startled showgirls. Expect the unexpected as varieties like Serbian kadarka – it’s a bit like pinot noir – or a melnik from Bulgaria are recultivated post the Iron Curtain. And if you haven’t heard of Czechian wines yet, we’re tipping they’re about to enter stage left.
➥TERROIRISTEN
Jægersborggade 52, 2200 København terroiristen.dk
If being adjacent to a skate park with a graffiti-covered halfpipe is the Copenhagen zeitgeist, then former blacksmith workshop Friheden (meaning The Freedom) is a microcosm of all that makes the city pulse. A DJ starts spinning vinyl at 10pm on weekends, but earlier it’s a rendezvous point for laid-back locals. Few know about this mini cantina, which by day services the former warehouse turned workspaces behind it. Yet there are multiple reasons to hunt down this newbie: the cheapest (and best) filter coffee in town, wines also sold by restaurant Noma (but a lot cheaper), truffle oil and cheese toasties, and views of the skaters.
➥FRIHEDEN
Esromgade 15, 1 1, 2200 København frihedenkbh.dk
6.30pm
Hello, happy hour! Bodegas, or brown bars, would be called dive bars anywhere else in the world and visiting one is a Danish cultural experience. They’re murky and mysterious, usually featuring varnished wood, snooker tables, low ceilings and clients ranging from Faro fishermen to beer-swigging politicians. Plus, they’re cheap. At Gensyn Bar you’re in good company. This is where bartenders tend to go before or after a shift (it won Best New Cocktail Bar in the 2017 Bartender’s Choice Awards). A recent injection of chic means that, apart from beer and violently hard liquor, there are 150 types of whiskey on its shelf.
We’re slowly sliding down a southwest arc across the city, and the hip-o-metre is high in Vesterbro. If it’s froth you seek, the most famous place for beer is Mikkeller Bar, with 20 beers on tap. When arranging to meet be specific – as well as Mikkeller Bar, there is a Mikkeller cafe, fine-dining restaurant and Chinese eatery all on the same block. In fact, there are 51 Mikkellers around the world, but this one is the original and where founder Mikkel Borg Bjergsø comes to pour beers himself. If a NY Blueberry Cheese Cake with Chocolate & Maple Topping – it’s a stout, if you’re wondering – doesn’t tempt you to try beer nothing will.
➥MIKKELLER BAR
Viktoriagade 8 B-C, 1655 København mikkeller.com
8pm
Drifting further south still, just as empty bellies begin rumbling, you’ll find the smorgasbord of the Meatpacking District. Focus on Restaurant Kul. Kul means charcoal, and all the restaurant’s dishes flirt with the flame, whether prepared on the grill or in the Josper oven. For more than a century this area was a rough industrial ’hood, but today the former meat halls are considered prime functionalist architecture. Inside, the decor champions the raw-materials aesthetic, but the food is far from basic – sophisticated dishes like Ibérico ham with tempura squid and oyster soy foam are delicious flights of fancy.
➥RESTAURANT KUL
Høkerboderne 16B, 20, 1712 København restaurantkul.dk
A night has many stages, and Curfew is for when it’s time to whisper sweet nothings into a lover’s ear. If you can get in. Hidden behind wrought iron doors and accessed by ringing a doorbell, it has space for just 70 to be seated, so book ahead. It’s a step back in time to when barmen wore braces, the music was jazzy (sorry Britney fans, there are no post-1970s tunes here) and the menu hinged on cocktails. Everything murmurs gangsters, from the Prohibition-style bar to the velvet couches in tucked-away corners. And the scent? That’s licorice. Danes are lovers of the salty confectionery and a smoking licorice root sits atop the signature tipple, the Unfaithful. But you’ll never cheat on this cocktail bar – it’s a keeper.
➥CURFEW
Stenosgade 1, 1616 København curfew.dk
All roads lead to Jolene. Set in a supermarket car park, it’s at the end of the road, literally. If you want grit, this is it, confirmed by a sign specifying there are no f*$%ing cocktails here. What you will find here is buckets of tolerance from the LGBTQIA staff and actual buckets. Below the disco ball remain the floor and wall tiles that nod to its slaughterhouse origins. “No one dies here any more, but we still hose it down sometimes,” says bartender Alicia. Last call is at 4.30am when the first delivery vans arrive, because even Jolene needs to sleep.
Even more than licorice, Danes love dogs. Hot dogs. But not mongrel dogs; more the purebred sausage variety containing organic applesauce sausage or beef from the island of Funen (well, that’s this week – it changes constantly). A hot dog from John’s Hotdog Deli is an amazing experience sober, but in the wee hours that same meal becomes outstanding. Located no more than 50 metres from Jolene, it also represents urban planning at its best. If the 15 toppings don’t whip your taste buds into a frenzy, two skips away is Warpigs Brewpub, Tommi’s Burger Joint and Bollyfood.
➥JOHN’S HOTDOG DELI
Flæsketorvet 39, 1711 København hotdogkit.dk
Here’s a lesson in how to make a 19th-century fortress even better. The original Brest Fortress, constructed in about 1830, helped protect the Soviet Union from marauding European invaders, including during World War II, the Germans. Eventually, having been battered by thousands of Hitler’s troops, it fell. When it was liberated once more, the Soviets decided to turn the crumbling hulk into a memorial for fallen soldiers and called it Hero Fortress. Then they added not one but two humongous Brutalist statues. One, called Thirst, depicts a dying soldier crawling towards a river; the other (pictured here) is just the head and shoulders of a square-jawed giant looming over the scene and threatening you to take a swing at what is now Belarus if you dare. We wouldn’t. brest-fortress.by
Sure, if you’re after a buzz you can always have a crack at normal skydiving, but anyone already game enough to jump out of a plane and plummet to earth probably won’t mind taking the adrenaline levels up another notch. Enter heli skydiving, which – you guessed it – involves a helicopter instead of a small plane. The Millennium Tandem Team in Hungary are the thrill-seekers behind this venture, and will take you up in a Mil Mi-8 troop transport helicopter. The one-minute freefall takes place over Lake Balaton, an hour’s drive from Budapest, and the scenic views from an altitude of 4000 metres are out of this world – if you’re brave enough to keep your eyes open. skydivingbudapest.org
Forget the Swiss Alps. Word on the street is that the hottest new paragliding playground in Europe is Georgia. With the rugged, snow-capped Caucasus Mountains providing a near-perfect setting for high-flying antics, there are multiple locations, including Gudauri and Mestia, where anyone seeking an adrenaline rush can take to the skies. Fly Caucasus is the go-to paragliding team in the region and flies year-round. Its experts are more than happy to cater to your anxiety levels – if all you want is a relaxing experience they will glide you through a super cruisy scenic flight, but if you’d prefer to soar off the highest point in Georgia, they can make that crazy wish happen, too. flycaucasus.com
If you think Rome’s Colosseum is impressive, wait till you get a load of the Croatian version. Of the approximately 200 Roman amphitheatres left in the world today, Pula Arena is the only one to have four complete corner towers. Much like its Italian cousin, gladiators took to the amphitheatre, cheered on by 20,000 spectators sitting on the stone tiers or standing in the gallery; in the Middle Ages, it was used for knights’ tournaments. These days, as well as being the starting point for most visitors coming to the city, it hosts replica gladiator duels during summer, the Pula Film Festival, concerts, ballet and sporting events.
There are hotels by the ocean, but there are not too many hotels in the ocean. Punta Grande Hotel, in El Hierro in the Canary Islands, is one of the rare latter varieties. The accommodation, which currently holds the record for smallest hotel in the world, literally sits atop a lava rock that extends into the sea. If you choose to secure one of only four rooms, each one facing the ocean and nautically inspired, be prepared for a truly off-the-grid experience. hotelpuntagrande.com/rooms
If you’re aching to be at one with nature but are too fancy for camping, then this treehouse getaway is exactly what you need. Located in the historic region of Aquitaine, Cabane 7ème Ciel sits seven metres above the ground and is an evergreen destination for two. Plus, the tree trunk goes right through the room for genuine treehouse vibes. Couple that with the stunning views of the Gave d’Oloron and you’ve got yourself a pretty relaxing time. abracadaroom.com
What do you do with an abandoned wine factory located on a prime stretch of untouched coastline on the Greek mainland? Turn it into a super luxe hotel, obviously! And that’s exactly what acclaimed architecture firm K-Studio has done, transforming the dilapidated 1920s property into Dexamenes Seaside Hotel. Old wine tanks have been converted into 34 boutique guestrooms, while adjacent buildings have been renovated into a taverna, history room, bar-lounge and bakaliko (meeting point) where local crafts and produce are sold. Design wise, it’s all muted tones, clean lines and plenty of timber, glass and steel finishes – think a Greek take on the minimalism aesthetic. With the Ionian Sea just a stone’s throw away, this is barefoot luxury at its best. designhotels.com
You can almost imagine the Hollywood starlets reclined on chaises longues at this classy boutique hotel that sits atop a rocky outcrop on the border with Monaco. Built in the 1920s and reimagined for modern luxury travellers in 2009, this 40-suite bolthole is the place to be in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. And while we can all appreciate that the best way to arrive is on a yacht – there’s a private dock, of course – the only place you’ll want to be once you set foot on dry land is by the pool. Its expansive dimensions coupled with its proximity to the shimmering Mediterranean Sea – oh, and the old-school high-dive platform, ample loungers and poolside bar – offer up charm and ambiance relaxante in spades. Monte-Carlo Beach and its pool are open to guests from March to October. relaischateaux.com
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to live near a lighthouse, here’s your chance. Across the sea, on the Islet of Viirelaid, both the lighthouse keeper’s house and the lighthouse complex offer accommodation for the nautically inclined traveller. With every window looking out to the sea, the keeper’s house comes with seven bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, separate fireplace room, and wood-fired sauna and hot tub. The complex is more suited for company events or private parties, with a whopping 50 beds. viirelaid.ee
Get this: the first evidence of habitation of what is now Bulgaria’s second-largest city has been dated back to the sixth millennium BCE during the Neolithic era. Then it was a Thracian settlement and ever since has been home to a mess of invaders, from Goths to Turks. These days in Plovdiv it’s possible to explore a Roman amphitheatre – built by Emperor Hadrian when the city was called Philippopolis, and only excavated in the 1970s – and the atmospheric Old Town with beautifully painted wooden buildings and cobbled laneways.
What do you get when you combine an ancient bathing culture with free-flowing booze, laser lights, cracking DJs and hundreds of people in various states of undress? Only the biggest SPArty in Europe! It’s wet, it’s wild and it’s a rite of passage if you’re ever passing through Budapest on a Saturday. Held in the historic Széchenyi Baths, which is the largest medicinal bath complex in Europe, the weekly parties kick off at 10.30pm and rage long into the night. There are two thermal pools to swim between – you better believe the temperature of both is cranked up to hot and steamy – set against the epic backdrop of an ornate Baroque Revival palace. It makes for a pretty incredible sight, although you’ll probably be too busy knocking back novelty-sized cocktails and splashing water in your mate’s face to notice. spartybooking.com
If Burning Man were underground – hard to imagine, we know – and had a Portuguese accent, it would be this summer arts and music festival set on the edge of a lake in the cultural region of Alentejo. Stretching over five days, Waking Life features a chorus of sound from people, instruments and machines, and provides an intimate and immersive experience for its goers. The lineup is meticulously curated to showcase fresh talent, while the artwork is meant to stimulate and provoke interaction. Did we mention it’s alongside a beautiful lake? wakinglife.pt
Say hello to the one place where glass ceilings are welcome. The clear domes of the Levin Iglut igloos offer a panoramic view of the Arctic sky and pristine snowy fells of Lapland. If you’re worried about the cold, there’s no need. Aside from heated glass walls, the igloos also boast in-floor heating and luxuriously dressed beds complete with down covers and fur throw. Absolutely perfect for a cosy night in under the stars. Tip: it’s worth spending the extra for a Prime Superior igloo for a front-row view of the stars and snow. leviniglut.net
Wind from Zermatt through three stunning alpine cantons to St Moritz on what is possibly Switzerland’s most famous rail ride. Not that express means you’ll be going fast. The 291-kilometre journey takes eight hours, with the express part relating to the fact this train doesn’t stop at any of the local stations. From your comfy seat with panorama windows you’ll see the Matterhorn, cross the highest point of the Oberalp Pass at 2033 metres, traverse 291 bridges and pass through 91 tunnels. It’s such an eye-popping ride you’ll probably want to do it twice – once in the winter when the snow is at its peak, then again in spring when you get the perfect combo of green valleys and snowy mountaintops. Earlier this year, the Excellence Class launched and it certainly ups the ante, with guaranteed window seats, five-course meal, an exclusive bar and a concierge who can fill you in on all aspects of the journey as you roll along. Pro tip: if you’re travelling from Zermatt to St Moritz try to snag a seat on the left-hand side of the train. glacierexpress.ch
Carved over the centuries by the forces of wind and water, the Blue Hole on the island of San Lawrenz is part of a limestone rock formation that makes for a spectacular entry and exit point for divers. Colourful coral, tubeworms, sponges and marine life cover the walls of the 15-metre hole, plus there’s a large cave and archway to explore. With diving here available year-round, it’s easy to see why it’s one of the islands’ most popular and stunning dives. Tip: it’s common for the Blue Hole to be busy in the afternoon, since divers will come here as the wind picks up and makes other dive sites around the islands less accessible.
Not so much a ladder as a whole lot of stony steps, this hike isn’t the longest you’ll ever do but it is one steep mofo, rising 940 metres from Kotor’s Old Town along the old city walls and up to the Krstac Pass. For centuries, it was the only connecting road between Kotor and Cetinje, the former Royal Capital of Montenegro. As you’re traipsing up the 70-plus switchbacks, just imagine what it would be like if you and your donkey were carrying bounty for the king – Petar II Pertrovic-Njegos, the prince bishop, once ordered a billiard table be bought over the pass – as well as your bottle of water. The hard work is worth it for the spectacular views of the Bay of Kotor and the mountainous landscape surrounding you.
You may think nothing good can come from a break-up, but this quirky space, located in Zagreb, celebrates the art of hearts rent asunder and romantic dreams dashed. Fun fact: when their four-year relationship broke down, artists Olinka Vistica and Drazen Grubisic joked they should put the possessions left over after their split into a museum. Now, this crowd-sourced collection has been recognised as one of the most innovative museums in Europe. Probably not the place for a first date, though. brokenships.com
Look, we admit it’s probably going to get a little chilly, but for adrenaline junkies and lovers of extreme water sports, leaping into rapids, abseiling down waterfalls and slip-sliding down gullies should shove any thoughts of the cold to the back of their minds. Area 47 offers the chance to get wet in the Ötzal Valley, which runs through Tyrol. With tours ranging from beginners to expert level, there’s a full day of peak excitement waiting for everyone. area47.at
Fast catching up to Iceland as one of Europe’s most Instagrammable locations, just one glimpse of the Faroe Islands is all it takes to understand why. Wild, untouched and insanely beautiful, this rugged cluster of 18 volcanic islands has an otherworldly feel about it, and a magic you don’t just find anywhere in the world. Located somewhere between Norway and Iceland, in the North Atlantic Ocean, its total isolation adds to the drama of the scenery, which is all craggy cliffs, green valleys, snow-capped mountains and deep fjords, with a smattering of shaggy sheep (fun fact: there are more sheep than people here). Even the small towns and villages, made up of colourful buildings and grass-roofed cottages, are ridiculously photogenic. We could go on, but it’s one of those places you just have to see for yourself.
What if someone told you there was a secret European country with a classic medieval capital, a mini Venice without the crowds and 2017’s World’s Best Female Chef (trust us, she’s only gotten better since then)? Oh, and it also has one of the longest cave systems in Europe, world-class wineries and as many adrenaline thrills as you can chase.
Do all that and you’ll still only have scratched the surface. And it’s all within just a couple of hours’ drive. Capital Ljubljana is a tale of two cities separated by the winding Ljubljanica River. Cafes line its banks with spritzes lighting up like beacons in the afternoon sun as the young Ljubljana population jostles for the best seats. Stroll the cobblestone lanes past buskers and artists and find a seat in one of the many quaint restaurants for a Slovenian seafood feast. There’s a handy underground craft beer scene, too. Get along to Lajbah for a selection of the country’s best and some local live music. It’s very cool.
Now head south and in about 45 minutes you’ll arrive at Postojna Cave Park, a 24,000-metre-long karst system with a rickety train dating back to the mid 1800s that transports visitors deep into the darkness. Keep an eye out for the five-metre-high bright white stalagmite called Brilliant. It grows at less than 10 centimetres every thousand years, so we’ll let you do the numbers. Also find the eyeless baby dragons that live deep in the bowels of the cave. Yes, we did say baby dragons.
The same distance south again will see you arriving in Piran. Part of the Slovenian Riviera and sitting on a peninsula that juts into the Adriatic Sea, it was ‘owned’ by Venice in the 15th century and shares certain architectural characteristics. It has its own charms though, not least of which is the lack of crowds. Starting at Tartini Square, stroll through the maze of Venetian-style buildings housing shops, bars and cafes. Be sure to catch a sunset from an outdoor table at Cafinho – it has the best music selection in town.
Speaking of the best, in 2017 a former diplomacy student was awarded the world’s best female chef on the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Located in the stunning Soča Valley – itself surrounded by the snow-capped Julian Alps – chef Ana Ros’s Hiša Franko is a gastronomic experience like no other. With dinner consisting of 23 courses and a matching wine option – her specialty is tortellini, but not as you know it – make sure you have a designated driver. Even more so if you decide to stop in the Goriška Brda region on the drive in. It pays to spend a night in what is the Slovenian equivalent of Tuscany, since the wine on offer is world class.
The lush Soča Valley offers a lot more than simply food and wine. Go white-water rafting on the ridiculously emerald green Soča River, zipline across 250-metre-high gorges, mountain bike, skydive, kayak, ski, snowboard… If you base yourself in Bovec, you can pick a different adrenaline thrill each day. You’ll probably want to finish up with a crafty at the Thirsty River Brewery as the sun sets.
Slovenia’s size allows for a full tour of the country to be accomplished in under a week, but that would hardly be cool. Take your time and discover your own secrets in the coolest of the cool European destinations. Oh, did we mention Žalec’s beer fountain?
If you’re anything like us, a trip to the local produce market is always high on our just-got-here-need-to-eat agenda. Sometimes, however, the unusual aromas and slippery floors of death can put a damper on our hunger. Not Rotterdam’s high-end offering, designed by local architects MVRDV and combining food hall, art space and apartment building. It’s the first of its kind in the world, and features a mural of market produce created by Arno Coene and Iris Roskam that’s been printed on aluminium panels and set into a huge internal arch. When you’re done ogling the roof, there are more than a hundred fresh food stands, as well as restaurants, food shops and a massive supermarket.
BEER Oude Markt, Belgium
Beer, glorious beer – if that’s a mantra of yours, do we have a treat for you. Any good beer aficionado knows that Belgium, and in particular the town of Leuven, is an important location on the ale trail as it’s home to the world’s biggest brand-name brewery, AB InBev. But Leuven also lays claim to having what’s widely considered the longest bar in Europe: Oude Markt. This lively city square comprises 40 bars, with every single building on the pedestrian-only thoroughfare (apart from two pharmacies) serving froffies. Outdoor terraces blend into one another, and patrons – beers in hand – spill out onto the central walkway in what can only be described as one enormous street party. Steer clear of the obvious tourist bars and head to De Kroeg, which claims to be the square’s oldest cafe, or Café Belge and its impressive selection of beers. Proost!
SNACKS Bear sausage, Slovenia
A hunter in Canada once told us that bears who’ve been stealing local winegrowers’ grapes taste the best. You might have to take his word for it, even in Slovenia where limited numbers of these lumbering beasts are hunted in forests where their numbers have become unsustainable. The best spot to find yourself some bear sausage is direct from the maker at places like Ljubljana’s Central Market. We suspect it doesn’t taste like chicken.
To even begin to get your head around the concept that is Copenhagen’s most ambitious dining venture, Alchemist, it’s worth looking at the mind-boggling stats: four kitchens, 10,000 bottles in the cellar, 40 seats, 30 chefs, 20 waiters, two sensory experience rooms, 50 courses and one insanely talented 27-year-old head chef, Rasmus Munk. After closing in 2017, Alchemist was due to reopen at press time with a renewed appetite for challenging the limits of a meal. Using a concept called Holistic Cuisine – incorporating ethical and social issues with art, theatre, science and technology (a former signature dish, pictured right, of lamb heart tartare with cherry sauce encouraged diners to become organ donors) – Munk and his army of chefs meticulously create boundary-pushing dishes that stimulate the senses. So how do you finish a five-hour feasting extravaganza? With a traditional Chinese tea ceremony. restaurant-alchemist.dk
Although completely unassuming on the outside, within Berlin’s Bar Jeder Vernunft a glittering festival awaits. Stellar comedy acts and musical performances are staged within a tent festooned by a glitzy sea of mirrors and decorated with red velvet curtains, strings of lights and candlelit tables. Before the show starts, check out the seasonal menu on offer, or book a three-course meal in advance, with the starter and main course served prior to the show, and dessert in the intermission. bar-jeder-venunft.de
Really, it does what it says on the tin. This is a combination of brains versus brawn, mentality versus muscle. In venues across London, hard men get in the ring to move their pieces then slug it out in three-minute rounds. The win comes from either a checkmate or a KO. The next big bout, Oktoberfist, takes place on 5 October, but if you’re keen to give it a go classes are held in Islington on Saturday mornings. londonchessboxing.com
Competing with the fairytale charm of Bruges, cobbled lanes of Antwerp and all-mighty lure of Brussels, it’s no wonder the medieval city of Ghent has managed to keep a low profile. Currently considered one of Belgium’s best-kept secrets, we have a sneaking suspicion this port town is about to start popping up on must-visit lists everywhere. A wealth of classical architecture is on display in the streets, and as one of Belgium’s oldest cities it’s home to more listed buildings than anywhere else in the country. Don’t miss the chance to feel as though you’ve been teleported back to the Middle Ages with a visit to Gravensteen Castle, while St Bavo’s Cathedral is a stunning example of Gothic design (it’s also home to The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb – the most stolen artwork of all time). Speaking of, some of Belgium’s best art collections are housed in Ghent. Get a closer look at them at MSK, the Museum of Fine Arts, STAM, the City Museum and S.M.A.K., the Museum for Contemporary Art. And with the largest student population in the Flanders region, you know there’s going to be some cracking places to eat, drink and let loose. Grab a drink in one of the many bars in the trendy district of Patershol, catch a gig at Vooruit and tuck into a steaming bowl of waterzooi (chicken soup) with a side of French fries and mayo. This is Belgium, after all.
You’ve probably heard a lot about the benefits of salt lamps and salt therapy rooms, which are said to cure a myriad of allergies, respiratory difficulties and skin conditions. So it should come as no surprise to learn there’s a wellness centre located 135 metres below the ground at one of Poland’s oldest working salt mines. The air in Wieliczka Salt Mine, which is a maze-like subterranean labyrinth of passageways and chambers, is completely pollution-free and rich in micronutrients – the ideal conditions for a successful health resort. Whether you’re visiting for the day or staying overnight, treatments include medical tests, massages, cardio training, aerobics classes and breathing exercises. Look, it may not be considered a traditional pamper sesh (there’s certainly no mani-pedi combos on offer), but we’re certainly not going to complain about a new-and-improved immune system. health-resort.wieliczka-saltmine.com
There must have been a time when the good citizens of Dundee thought their new museum might never happen. Originally slated for 2014, the doors finally swung open in September 2018. But they say good things come to those who wait and Scotland’s first museum dedicated to design is jam packed with inspiring exhibits. Even if you don’t wander inside, architect Kengo Kuma’s jaunty, angled creation that cantilevers, in part, over the River Tay is one worth casting an eye upon. For his first commission in the UK, Kuma looked to nature and Scotland’s rugged northeastern coastal cliffs for his vision. The curving concrete walls of the museum are made from 2500 pre-cast rough stone panels each weighing up to 3000 kilograms. As an added bonus, history buffs will love that Discovery, the ship used by Scott and Shackleton on their Antarctic expeditions, is moored outside. vam.ac.uk/dundee
File Bucharest under Europe’s most surprising city, because this is one destination that doesn’t get the kudos it deserves. Romania’s capital, long thought of as nothing more than a stopover on the way to Transylvania, is finally coming into its own with a lively nightlife, interesting array of museums and galleries, plenty of green space and cheap beers. While the mark of Communism is still evident throughout the city – the menacing Palace of Parliament (the heaviest building in the world, and the second largest administrative structure behind the Pentagon) is the most extreme example – there’s also a beautifully mismatched collection of Orthodox churches, Byzantine apartment blocks and Art Nouveau manors well worth ogling. Trendy cafes, one of the prettiest bookstores this side of Paris in Carturesti Carusel, and a noticeable lack of tourists, long lines or crowded attractions only further validate Bucharest’s newly minted cool status.
When you picture an island resort, your first thought probably isn’t of a collection of luxury tents tucked away on a forested private island in the Stockholm archipelago. Admit it – you went tropical island vibes, didn’t you? Island Lodge is a 40-minute boat ride from the Swedish capital, and it’s just as indulgent as any five-star beachside resort. There are seven dome-shaped tents, each with a wooden deck. The interiors resemble the set of a magazine shoot and showcase the latest in Scandinavian design – we’re talking plush linen, reindeer skins and wood-fire stoves. Meals are prepared using seasonal, local and organic produce, and served up at a sea-front dining setting. Massages can be arranged, and there’s also a hot tub, floating sauna and wine cellar. Who needs palm trees and fruity cocktails when you’ve got this sort of cosy comfort? islandlodge.se
Glittering turquoise waters, secluded sandy coves, sunny days and warm nights – all this and more natural splendour is just a 20-minute flight from England’s Cornish Coast. Yes, you read that right. This is the UK. So what is this secret paradise the Brits have been keeping from us? St Agnes, a tiny landmass in the Isles of Scilly. Measuring less than two kilometres in width, it’s the most southwesterly island in the archipelago and consists of a community of 72 people, a few cute cottages, bird sanctuary, pub and an ice-creamery – you know, all the remote island essentials. You can camp (or glamp) at Troytown Farm, and days become surprisingly busy as you squeeze in kayaking, swimming, stand-up paddleboarding, walking and birdwatching. Don’t forget to have a meal at the Turk’s Head pub either – the views from the beer garden are the best on the island.
From the outside it looks like your run-of-the-mill place of worship, but step inside and you might find yourself questioning whether you’ve stumbled upon the lair of a prolific serial killer. Sedlec Ossuary, also known as the Church of Bones, is a small chapel in Kutná Hora decorated entirely with human bones. Thankfully, they aren’t the remains of murder victims, and have instead come from the tens of thousands of people buried in nearby Sedlec Cemetery. In 1870 a local woodcarver began working his dark magic on the bones, creating macabre highlights like a fetching 2.5-metre bone chandelier, an insanely detailed family crest, bone candelabras, skull candleholders and crosses crafted from hip and femur bones. Creepy? You bet. Cool? Abso-bloody-lutely. sedlecossuary.com
Norway may be home to polar bears, walrus, reindeer and moose, but there’s one particular creature that lures animal lovers like no other: whales. On a cruise with Majestic Whale Encounters it isn’t just any old cetacean you’ll be getting to know, though. During this nine-night tour you’ll not only be cruising fjords to spot humpbacks and other marine life, you’ll also be pulling on a wetsuit and actually diving into the ocean to swim and interact with orcas. Taking a dip with these inquisitive and highly intelligent animals is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. There’s no need to worry about these gentle giants taking a cheeky chomp out of you. Norwegian orcas eat only herring. majesticwhaleencounters.com.au
CASTLE Pałac Warmątowice Sienkiewiczowskie, Poland
If you ingested a diet of Disney films as a child, chances are you probably dreamed of growing up, meeting your Prince (or Princess) Charming and living happily ever after in a castle. While we can’t do much about the royalty part, you might be interested to hear about Pałac Warmątowice Sienkiewiczowskie, a real-life castle you can stay in. It’s situated in the Legnica region of Poland and was originally built in 1602 as a fortified manor complete with epic moat. Almost destroyed in World War II, it has since been restored to its former glory and now accommodates up to 10 guests across five elaborately furnished guestrooms. If that’s not fairytale-esque enough for you, dense woodlands where deer, birds and small forest creatures reside surround the castle – how’s that for some Snow White vibes? palac-warmatowice.pl
Who said a landslide had to bring you down? In the case of this Sardinian gem, it was the start of something heavenly. Located near the town of Baunei, Cala Biriola was formed when the landscape fell away about half a century ago, leaving behind a semicircle of smooth white pebbles surrounded by towering limestone cliffs and turquoise water. At one end of the beach, there’s also a natural rock arch. The walk in is epic, but you can easily take a water taxi from one of the local villages. Do that early in the morning and you’ll practically have this picture-perfect scene to yourself. Oh, there are plenty of fish in this sea, so don’t forget your mask and snorkel.
Game of Thrones fans will be frothing that they will soon be able to take an official tour at one of the hit series’ original filming locations: Linen Mill Studios in Northern Ireland.
To get the full GOT experience and lose yourselves in the Seven Kingdoms of Westeros, this deeply immersive attraction has been developed with the filmmakers. Thronies will be able to step into fully dressed sets used during the show’s production, and come face to face with original costumes, weaponry and props used to create this epic fantasy world.
Fans experiencing separation anxiety after the award-winning series reached its finale will be able to relive scenes set at Braavos, Dorne and Dragonfly, as well as explore Winterfell Castle, Pyke and Riverrun.
This is the only permanent, officially licensed Game of Thrones experience in the world. An opening date in late 2021 will give die-hard fans enough time to start saving their bucks.
Among the glamour and hedonism that reigns in Mykonos, Myconian Avaton offers timeless charm you’ve been craving.
Extending from the rocky cliffside, the boutique property occupies a private stretch of the famed Elia Beach, complete with unencumbered views of the cerulean and sapphire waters of the Aegean Sea. Vestiges of the island’s Cycladic heritage are evident in the hotel’s design – think charcoal concrete floors, whitewashed walls, timber-framed windows and vintage furnishings.
Its myriad rooms, suites, and two- and four-bedroom villas featuring private pools and Jacuzzis are like worlds within themselves, meaning you’ll have total privacy. Tuck into Mykonian delicacies at the onsite restaurant, rejuvenate with thalassotherapy or a body wrap at the wellness centre, and soak up the serenity.
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