Sunk deep in metres of snow atop a mountain overlooking Switzerland’s Lake Grimsel is a magical winter getaway. At the Hotel Grimsel Hospiz, the past and the present merge. It’s a place of firsts; the first certified guesthouse of Switzerland was located at this exact spot, way back in 1142. Then, almost 800 years later, Grimsel Hospiz caused quite a sensation when it became the Europe’s first house to be heated via electricity in 1932. Following a complete renovation, the 4-star alpine hotel melds its history with modernity, taking advantage of its location in the heart of the KWO catchment area (a sustainable hydroelectric power producer) to heat the entire property by using hydroelectric waste-heat so you’ll be toasty warm in these cooler temps.
The hotel is an idyllic place to switch off from the world – think cosy boudoirs, crackling fires, open-air restaurant with sweeping views across the powdered peaks and Lake Grimsel, and steaming hot tub – but it’s the journey to your dreamy winter hideaway that’s the true kicker. The winter snows thwart a direct route to the property, so you’ll be swapping the traditional hotel transfer for a series of stunning journeys by bus and gondola where you’ll be accompanied by a hotel visitor guide.
Meet your guide at the headquarters of the KWO in Innertkirchen, where you’ll board your bus to Handeck, then journey by gondola from Handeck to Gerstenegg. The bus ride through the tunnel system of the power plants ends at Sommerloch, where you take the final gondola up through the mountains to Hotel Grimsel Hospiz. Once at the hotel, you’ll find yourself in a peaceful and pristine world, far away from the hustle.
Mother Nature sure can be a bitch. Here we are, in a village in the midst of the Scottish countryside, preparing to honour one of the greatest rock ’n’ roll singers of all time, and she’s decided to dump a load on us. Of unseasonable spring snow, that is. Drums are removed from the back of a flatbed truck, pipers are sent packing and there’s a general scurrying towards the pub.
The Thrums is a cosy public house that takes its name from the works of one of Kirriemuir’s famous former residents, JM Barrie. You can imagine that, for most of the year, locals sit at the bar and chat about the Scottish premier league or whatever’s made the news. Today, however, the place is heaving. People are four deep waiting for their pint and crammed into the pub’s every corner. Bizarrely, the television is tuned to the game between North Melbourne and the Western Bulldogs. I strike up a small-talk conversation with an Australian couple also watching. It isn’t until they’re ushered away that I make the connection – the man is Mark Evans, former bass player with AC/DC.
We’re in Kirrie, as everyone calls it, for the tenth annual Bonfest, a celebration of the village’s favourite son, Ronald Belford Scott. The three-day party offers free music in the town’s pubs and nightly gigs by rock bands and AC/DC tribute shows, as well as talks, signings and a market day. It was all due to kick off at 1.45 on this Friday afternoon with a re-creation of the famous film clip for ‘It’s a Long Way to the Top’ – well, as closely as you can re-create something shot on Melbourne’s Swanston Street in a tiny town in the Highlands. The fully loaded vintage lorry was all ready to go when the storm came. Stupid storm.
Still, you can’t keep a good rocker down, and the equipment has been hastily moved into the Thrums where the atmosphere is building. There are folks here dressed in kilts, denim jackets covered in AC/DC cloth patches and Bonfest ‘Crew’ t-shirts; then there are others who just look like your average beer drinker out searching for a quiet shandy. Are those guys going to be surprised. Finally, the band hits the stage and the weekend is officially on like Donkey Kong. If anyone was in any doubt they merely needed to check the number of empty glasses rapidly accumulating on the tables edging the room.
This year Bonfest is an especially big deal for organisers John Crawford and Graham Galloway. Not only is it the tenth year they’ve run the gathering, but this is also going to be the biggest one ever. The nighttime activities have moved from Kirriemuir Town Hall to a big top on a field at the bottom of the hill. They’ve assembled a huge cast of Bon’s band mates and friends – along with Mark Evans, there’s the rocker’s longtime confidante and sometime girlfriend Mary Renshaw, Tony Currenti, who drummed on AC/DC’s debut High Voltage, and Bob Richards, who filled in for drummer Phil Rudd when he was having some trouble with the law. Then there’s Saturday’s big event, but that’s getting ahead of ourselves because today things are just getting warmed up.
There’s not so much a stage at the Thrums as a part of the floor marked out by foldback wedges, speakers and equipment. The first band due to appear, a local trio called Ganked, has been bumped to accommodate the changing situation. Two fully decked-out pipers stand at either edge of the room, the members of Bon The AC/DC Show file in, Mark Evans grabs the bass, and they finally get to let rip with ‘Long Way to the Top’. ‘The Jack’, ‘TNT’ and lots of back-slapping and cheersing later, and we’re back on schedule.
The guys from Ganked finally get to take their spot. It soon becomes obvious Bonfest isn’t all about AC/DC, as much as the crowd would, perhaps, prefer it. This is more acoustic than metal, and Ganked plays a fistful of hits from the likes of the Police, Feargal Sharkey and Dexys Midnight Runners.
“When are you going to play some real fookin’ rock,” yells a red-cheeked bloke wearing a patched vest. Not to be intimidated, the band launches into ‘Video Killed the Radio Star’. Eventually, they give the crowd what they’ve been waiting for and play a lesser-known AC/DC track, ‘Big Balls’.
It could never have been the organisers’ intention, but AC/DC is definitely in the news this weekend. Long-time singer Brian Johnson had announced he’d be leaving the band due to hearing issues, and in the days before the gathering in Kirriemuir the group’s tour dates had been rescheduled with Guns N’ Roses’ Axl Rose as the replacement front man. No one, it seems, is happy.
“I’d rather do this than go and see AC/DC with Axl Rose,” a man in a kilt says to his mate in another of the local pubs, the Roods. “It’s all over now,” his friend replies, mournfully. “The drummer’s in prison, the singer’s deaf and the guitarist is gone.” He takes a long swig of his pint.
It’s a common conversation over the weekend. People who have tickets to see the band in Portugal, London and other cities in the weeks to come are trying to offload them to no avail. No one is sure how Rose, who is known to have a precarious relationship with time management, would go playing with the hardest working band in show business. There is talk that Angus, the only remaining original member, should simply call it quits. (Everyone’s fears were for nothing: Rose won acclaim for his gigs with the band. Johnson, meanwhile, has been testing a new in-ear monitor that should allow him to get back out on the road.)
As the afternoon draws on, fans begin slipping out of the pubs to form a tiny procession down the Kirriemuir hill to the field where the evening’s entertainment will begin. There’s the huge big top, where the bands will play, two smaller ones selling merch and drinks, and a burger van. A small huddle of tents with a backdrop of hills doused in snow is pitched a small distance away. This is the sanctuary of the crazy-brave types who have booked the £20 weekend camping tickets.
Each evening, three bands are going to strut their stuff in the big top in front of about a thousand fans, some of whom have strung up AC/DC signs announcing their own home towns. There are a lot of Germans in attendance, but also guys (they’re invariably guys) who’ve travelled in from Spain and other parts of Europe. Mainly, though, there are a lot of Scots, many of them from Kirriemuir – every shop in the town has a Bonfest display in its window and the local sweet shop has Let There Be Rock candy canes for sale – and nearby villages, as well as cities further afield. Despite the huge number of people who’ve filled Kirrie to almost breaking point, there’s still the atmosphere of a village fete. It appears as though everyone knows everyone else, but, as the weekend wears on, it becomes apparent it’s more that everyone is quite happy to meet everyone else.
First up this evening is Reddog, a power trio from Crieff, about 75 kilometres away. The sound is certainly AC/DC-esque, but, thankfully – since how many times can you really listen to ‘Highway to Hell’ in one weekend? – they mix originals in with covers like ‘Cold Hard Bitch’ by Australian band Jet, who were once described by NME as a mix of the Rolling Stones and Acca Dacca. They’re followed by guitar rock band, the Ruckus, from Aberdeen.
The crowd has grown as the sun has set, the beer tent has been doing a roaring trade and everyone is primed and ready for that night’s main event, Back:N:Black. Go to the band’s website and you’ll see this modest claim: “We’re just five girls who dig playing AC/DC more than anything.” Yes, girls. They’re based in Switzerland, tour the world, have played Montreux Jazz Festival and, from the second they step on stage, they’ve got the Bonfest crowd in the palms of their hands. It doesn’t hurt that they are smoking hot, but they certainly have the tribute band thing nailed. They are pure rock, from their torn tights to the note-perfect re-creation of AC/DC’s hits, starting with ‘High Voltage’ and leaving no fan favourite from their sprawling set list. No one, least of all them, it seems, is keen for the night to be over.
The next morning, there’s a collective sigh of relief. Today is the Big Day, and the sun has burst through the cloud. In the Kirriemuir car park, a substantial crowd begins to gather as the morning draws on. Stalls are set up selling coffee and baked goods, artwork and AC/DC memorabilia. There’s a truck (this one covered) set up with gear for an afternoon set by Spanish tribute band Chaman, and people are gathering around a tall iron fence. Within it there’s a large, blanket-covered form. For the past two years, the Bonfest crew and AC/DC fans have raised £45,000 to have a statue of Bon Scott made and erected in the town of his birth. As the time for its unveiling draws ever nearer the crowd swells. They’re banked up the hill and perched in trees and on fences – anything that’s a bit higher and gives them a view of proceedings. By the time Mark and Mary tear off the coverings to reveal sculptor John McKenna’s work – bagpipes, tatts and all – an estimated 2500 people are watching. It’s an emotional moment, particularly for those who knew the singer. “I always liked Bon, and now I know why,” says Mark to the assembled masses. “He was from here.”
If you’ve always wanted to live out your Heidi fantasies, look no further than Switzerland’s Alpine huts.
There are more than 250 huts listed for rent across the country, so your chance to stay close to nature and away from busy roads and the hustle and bustle of city life just got easy. Huts are architecturally typical of the region they’re in and many of these traditional homes have been used as the summer residences by everyone from cheese makers to shepherds and their animals for generations. Most huts are also only accessible by hiking to them, so you know you’ll be experiencing the real deal.
While some accommodations have been luxuriously refurbished, most remain in their original form, free from mod-cons like dishwashers, hot tubs, cable TV or wi-fi. No doubt, this will help you to truly detach yourself from work and your modern-day lifestyle to properly reconnect with Mother Nature. Peace, tranquility, bliss.
Spend your days hiking the mountain trails or just sitting quietly admiring the pristine landscape around you to the gentle ring of cow bells. However you choose to spend your time, know that you will return rejuvenated and re-energised.
If the saying ‘silence is golden’ glimmers with hope, a month-long meditation trek may be just what the doctor ordered.
Journey to the secluded peaks of the Spanish Pyrenees in search of personal reconnection and understanding. In a small group you’ll trek in silence for days, following nature, not a guru, and become attuned to the beating of your heart and the rhythm of your breath.
Camp in solitude in the wild mountains where you’ll discover true spontaneity and the value of social interaction in its absence. Find your own form of spirituality, explore your darkest thoughts and desires and feel the vibrancy of your dreams as your self-awareness kicks in.
Travel lean and practise ‘spiritual fasting’, carrying no more fuel than you need to sustain life as you trek through grass-lined gorges and over frosted mountain passes. Some find hiking as a hermit cathartic, others relaxing, but it’ll sure cure your craving for quiet.
Think James Bond meets David Attenborough. These two boutique, light-filled, heat-retaining domes have been designed to be low on environmental impact and high on techy gadgets.
They have open-plan, five-star interiors, an outdoor Japanese-style hot tub and views stretching out to Castle Stalker, Loch Linnhe and the west coast of Scotland. Choose from whitewater rafting in nearby Fort William, the outdoor capital of the UK, or gorging on your complimentary hamper of scallops (hand-collected by divers from the bottom of the loch) and local beers.
As one of the most cycle-friendly countries in the world, Switzerland sees almost two million visitors hop on two wheels during their holiday – 45% jump on city bikes, almost 30% go for e-bikes and road bicycles, and the reminder traverse trails by mountain bike – and it’s easy to see why. Featuring a series of bike hotels, bike-storing facilities on public transport and a comprehensive network of cycling routes, Switzerland’s rising popularity among cyclists was inevitable.
Now Switzerland Tourism has launched Ride the Alps, a website dedicated to the various cycling events around the country between May and September. Avid riders will find a full run-down of the selected mountain passes that will be closed off to motorists during the five-month period, featuring 13 set dates for cyclists to take advantage of car-free roads.
Some of the traditionally popular alpine cycling routes include the Gotthard region, the Valais, and the Vaud Alps. Now, cyclists can fully explore other alpine regions around the country sans pesky motor traffic.
Few creatures have been so fascinating to humans as the polar bear. The unofficial symbol of the Arctic, these critters – a cross between soft-and-cuddly giant and fearsome predator – are so prolific in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard that they outnumber people, making it the perfect destination to encounter them in their natural habitat, and ensures you’ll tick off this bucket list experience in all its wonder and glory.
Cast off in a Hurtigruten ship from the shores of Longyearbyen and cruise through the icy seas towards the archipelago’s southernmost tip, marvelling at the monolithic glaciers of Kongsfjorden and the ruins of whaling settlements in Mitrahalvøya before sailing through the Hornsund fjord to Gnålodden, renowned for its bird and polar bear populations.
Thanks to its unique geology, the landscape here is a motley of mossy tundra and towering cliffs where a cacophony of nesting black-legged kittiwakes and Brünnich’s guillemots – along with thousands of other bird species – can be seen and heard (the name, gnål, literally means ‘nagging’ in Norwegian) and ice pushed into the fjord draws out the polar bears seeking the perfect hunting block to launch from. Accompanied by your expedition leader, you’ll disembark for an excursion on land where you’ll learn about the area’s fascinating history and topography and feel that heady rush as you stumble upon a polar bear’s enormous paw prints trailing through the snow. The expedition team leader confirms what you already know – a polar bear was here not so long ago.
In between keeping an eye out for these majestic creatures you’ll sail past bobbing icebergs, spot herds of wild reindeer and admire beautiful alpine flora, all while soaking up the rays of the midnight sun. Keep your camera at the ready, though – this is polar bear country and you can expect to hear sudden cries of excitement from the deck and the loudspeaker crackling into action, both announcing the sighting of a streak of golden fur amongst the blankets of snow and Arctic ice, sending you and your fellow adventurers into an excited frenzy as you spot a bear snoozing peacefully or a cub playfully snuggling in close to its mother. It’s a moment that inspires a collective and heartfelt wave of awe and wonder; once you’ve captured a few snaps with your camera you’ll revel in simply watching them in this epic landscape.
There’s more to Cornwall’s most westerly major town than the story of a leap-year born pirate. The comedic tale of a young pirate, only able to celebrate his birthday every four years and duty-bound to the Pirates of Penzance until his true age of 21 when he is reunited with his true love, may have put Cornwall’s most westerly major town on the map, but there’s more to this historic port than just singing pirates.
Penzance, where the Gilbert and Sullivan classic opera is set, is a picturesque seaside town on the south-west coast of England on Mount’s Bay, which is a body of water dominated by the splendour the medieval tidal island called St Michael’s Mount.
In a sheltered position close to the sea and just 10 miles from Land’s End, Penzance enjoys the most temperate climate of the UK – you can expect to see some sunshine, here. Home of pirates, smugglers, beautiful churches, Victorian markets and UNESCO Heritage Listed Roman baths, it demands to be on your list of destinations to visit.
For the journey, begin with the Tarka Line to Barnstaple, Britain’s most scenic train journey through lush green fields and imposing pine forests with sandy beached coastal views. In Barnstaple, experience the trade of a time immemorial in the Victorian Market Hall with its high vaulted glass and timber ceiling supported by iron columns. From here, jump on the Great Western Railway to the star attraction, Penzance. Founded in 1833 with a restoration returning it to its former glory, the Great Western Railway will deliver breathtakingly scenic views the whole way.
If you want to extend your journey, jump back on the train north-east of Penzance and make your way to the beautiful limestone landscapes of Bath. Set in the rolling countryside of southwest England, Bath is aptly known for its hot springs and stunning architecture. It is home to rows upon rows of Georgian style buildings and the Roman Bath Museum is a must-see, containing the original mineral springs that have proved so healing throughout the ages. Make sure you don’t skip Bath Abbey, a truly magnificent building with its fan-vaulting, tower and large stained-glass windows.
The lush green valleys and rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales encompass the signature sweeping, dramatic landscapes famous of the Yorkshire region. Babbling brooks that converge into a rushing river, limestone-laced landscapes and labyrinths of caves scattered below the lush green ground make up the landscape of the National Park with each valley, or dale, offering it’s own distinct characteristic and rich history.
With high rainfall in the area, the land is endlessly dressed in lush greenery and dotted with purple, yellow and white wildflowers during the spring and summer months. The scent of wild garlic fills the air during spring and delicate wild orchids open themselves to the sun’s rays. Temperate weather may not be a trait of the Dales, but long summer days make for a perfect hilltop hikes that are so peaceful, you’ll forget about the busy roads below. In the winter months, snow cloaks the fields with a pristine, unblemished consistency.
The Dales, which got its name from the old English word dael, meaning valley and derived from Nordic language, are each filled off rich historic stories of early occupation by Danes, Norseman and Romans. Small postcard-like villages scatter the landscape around and through the National Park, each with their own tales of their heritage as medieval trade ports and strategic strongholds in long-ago skirmishes.
The Dales are easily explored from the market town of Skipton, which also holds a few attractions itself. This charming town was voted 2014’s best town to live, and is home to the best preserved medieval castle in England. A castle was first built on this site in 1090 by Robert de Romille, a Norman Baron, but the timber ramparts did little to stop the invading Scots. This was quickly replaced with a stone fortress that was then fortified and considerably extended in the 12th century when King Edward II granted the lands to the Clifford family.
Often known as the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales, Grassington National Park Centre, near Skipton, is the starting point of many scenic trails, varying in difficulty and length for people of all fitness and experience levels. Other scenic walks in the Dales include the lovely village walk along famous limestone pavement from Malham to the cove, or the enchanting Aysgarth Falls further north. Regardless of your destination, you are bound to be struck by the beautiful scenes of the Dales, from the tourist-frequented attractions, to the hidden places you can stumble upon.
The Beatles, David Bowie, Queen, Led Zeppelin, Blur, Oasis, The Stone Roses… the list of legendary British music heroes goes on and on, and you’ll find the places they lived, were inspired, and even played their first gigs right across Britain. But how to get there? Craft your very own custom music tour with Tempo Holidays on a city-to-city rail adventure that will see you walking in the footsteps of your favourite British bands and artists.
In London, snapping your own version of The Beatles’ Abbey Road album cover is a must. For those who don’t know the story, in 1969 the band stepped outside Abbey Road studios in St John’s Wood and onto a white-striped crossing for a photoshoot, and Beatles fans have been trying to recreate this iconic album cover ever since. Then head to 23 Brook Street where you’ll find two blue plaques denoting the former residence of two musical greats – baroque composer George Frideric Handel and guitarist and rock legend Jimi Hendrix. Finally, spice up your life with a dance off on the very spot Britain’s most famous pop girl group, the Spice Girls, filmed their first music video: in the entrance and main staircase of the Midland Grand Hotel. This Victorian-Gothic hotel was once considered among the finest hotels in the world.
Britain’s resume of legendary music doesn’t end there. Jump on a train to Liverpool, home to The Cavern Club, where The Beatles played their first gig; Manchester will delight Smiths fans with the Salford Lads Club where their famous inside cover of The Queen is Dead was shot; and in Scotland King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, which opened in 1990 and quickly established a reputation for showcasing new talent, broke one of Britain’s biggest acts in the last 25 years, Oasis, and they continue to host multi-brand gigs almost every night and nurture up-and-coming talent and cult international acts.
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