The idea of a quick trip to Oran had sounded like a good idea at the time, but somehow I had found myself in the uncomfortable spotlight at an Algerian bachelor party.
I’m pacing around my friend Reda’s house in Algiers, trying to clear my thoughts after three months living in the confinement of various hotel rooms. The Algerian music and cooking project I’m working on is in a rut, and I’m well and truly in need of a break.
Calmly strumming his guitar in a corner of the room, Reda suggests a change of scenery, and within a matter of hours we’re cruising along the East-West Highway towards the coastal city of Oran. Rain dampens the stunning scenery of the four-hour drive; perhaps it’s a sign of what was to come.
It’s two o’clock in the morning when we arrive at our destination, and our hostess, Yassia, who is also Reda’s sister-in-law, answers our early morning arrival with sleepy eyes and a big smile.
This isn’t my first time in Oran. I had previously visited the pretty town during the Oran International Arabic Film Festival last summer, where I was invited as a guest artist. I ended up staying an extra week to tap dance with a DJ and meet the locals, including some musicians.
After a relaxing day spent exploring the coastline and celebrating one of Yassia’s children’s birthdays, I decide to continue my night with some live music, making the most of the town’s festive atmosphere (live concerts exist in the capital but are unfortunately rare).
I get in touch with my musician friends who are booked to play at a ‘wedding’. They invite us along and ask me to bring my tap shoes.
It isn’t until I reach the top of the restaurant’s staircase that I find out Algerian weddings are not a mixed affair – it turns out that this is just the men’s side of the celebration and more like a bachelor party than the weddings I’m accustomed to. The room is full of men, and just as we sit down a band of horns and drums marches up the stairs hooting festively and bringing the crowd to a wild stand. I learn this is a tradition that is said to bring luck to the groom.
When my friends take to the stage, they pull me up with them. I’m expecting an original song, but instead, Daft Punk’s Get Lucky starts blaring from the instruments. It feels kind of cheesy but I tap dance to the tune and the men cheer me on.
Invigorated and slightly breathless from the dance, I rejoin Reda and his friend. Their faces have turned a slight shade of red. “We need to leave,” Reda tells me. I try to get him to stay for another song so I can say goodbye to my friends, but it’s glaringly obvious that something has upset him.
Moments later, we’re screeching down the road in the car with Reda behind the wheel yelling about the inappropriateness of what has just happened. I’m confused by his reaction – this performance was not dissimilar to others I’ve tapped to before. When probed, however, it all becomes a little clearer.
Reda announces that the men in the room didn’t know the difference between an artist and a prostitute, and he is in shock at the seductive ambience of the event, and even more so when he noticed men taking videos on their phones. In his opinion, he has just witnessed a respectable friend become the equivalent of a clothed ecdysiast and, by association, he’s the pimp. My nonchalant attitude to it all appears to only infuriate him more.
The tension is almost unbearable and I have a strange urge to leap from the moving vehicle. It’s an eye-opening, first-hand experience of the delicate male-female relations in Algeria. There is a code between families and friends, and the strong, protective nature of it can be as suffocating as it is comforting.
A few hours of strumming his guitar in solitude and Reda is calm once more. The next day we continue our musical encounters in a neighbouring town where we interview and jam with one of the country’s music legends, electric guitarist Lotfi Attar. Thankfully, it’s a very different experience to the previous night. A fascinating in-depth conversation about his involvement in the origins of Raï music ensues, followed by a long, exhilarating jam session.
But all’s well that ends with couscous, and that’s exactly what’s waiting for us at Yassia’s house for our final dinner in Oran. The wedding is well and truly behind us and we spend the rest of the night dancing, twirling and laughing deliriously to the hit songs of Lotfi’s group Raïna Raï.
Wildlife photography puts even the professionals to the test. You can’t plan a wildlife shot the way you can a landscape – you never know how your subject will behave. And, when you’re on safari, you’re usually stuck inside a vehicle. But then, when all the elements align, allowing you to capture that golden moment, it’s one of the most rewarding types of photography.
Being in the right place at the right time is essential, but there are still steps you can take to increase your chances of getting an excellent shot. Here are my tips and techniques to help put the odds in your favour.
Know Your Subject
Read up about the wildlife you might observe. Know when and where to expect each type of creature. Animals are like humans – they have habits. In Africa, the midday sun sends most animals into hiding, so your best chance of spotting the local fauna is at sunrise and sunset. Birds follow routines too. Seek out where they are nesting and wait. Watch as they come and go – this is when you will capture those detailed and more exciting photographs of birds in action, and the flora around them will give perspective of their size.
Know the land and climate, as well as your prey. Study a map. Find waterholes and big open plains. If it’s the dry season animals will congregate at permanent water sources. Come rain, there’s more grass in which to hide and the local fauna will be less desperate for a drink, making your endeavour a bit more challenging.
Patience is a virtue
Earlier this year I visited Namibia’s Etosha National Park and saw a pair of lions – the pinnacle of safari finds – on my very last day. I was surprised at the number of travellers who drove up for a glimpse and departed. Everyone had journeyed all this way to see this iconic scene and yet they were too impatient to stay, wait and observe. The lions luxuriated in the sun, partially obscured by shrubs on the ground, but after half an hour they roused and padded through the plain, giving us a clear view of their powerful haunches and self-assured gait. No one else was left to enjoy the moment.
So remember, animals don’t just stay in one place. When you first spot a creature it may be concealed by trees or too far away to capture. But if you’re patient enough that springbok might prance into the right light or a pack of hyenas could lock onto prey.
Light is key
Picture those classic safari images – a giraffe in front of a blood-red African sunrise, or the perfect reflection of a lion lapping at a waterhole. The key to these images is light. Capturing the right light is every professional photographer’s mantra, and you’ll find it’s the simplest way to improve your photographs. Not only are most animals active around sunrise and sunset when the scorching sun tempers, but the soft glow enhances your images and you can play with colours and silhouettes. Be the first on location in the morning and experience the magic of observing the world at the crack of dawn. Then head back to base and do what the wildlife does: take a nap. In the late afternoon, set off again to watch the creatures come to life for a second time.
Choose Your Tools
When it comes to photographing wildlife you can never get close enough, so a telephoto lens is a pivotal part of your arsenal. On safari I keep my Olympus M.Zuiko 300mm f/4 IS Pro lens close at hand (I’ve used it for most of the images illustrating this article). It’s the equivalent of a 600mm lens for a full-frame camera, but with the advantage of weighing less than 1.5 kilograms, so it’s incredibly portable. The built-in lens image stabilisation also works in combination with the camera body stabilisation, allowing you to use this lens without a heavy monopod or tripod. And if you’re witnessing a lion dashing through the savannah, you don’t have time to carefully reposition a prop.
Shoot Wide And Shoot Tight
Mix up the type of photographs you take. Be sure to show your subject interacting with the environment around it. Then make use of your telephoto lens and get up close for a personal shot. Paint a picture through variation. Your final gallery should be all about the abundance of wildlife you observed and the landscape you explored. Don’t forget trees, plants and any clouds clinging to the sky – they’re all characters in your safari story.
Look Down
There’s more to an African safari than the Big Five. Look for life on every level. If you’re having a slow day and haven’t spotted a coveted elephant or rhino, don’t fall into the trap of feeling as though you’ve seen nothing at all. Pause and observe the smaller things. Lock eyes on birds and insects, watch for the glimmer of a skink or the supple armour of a puff adder. Scour the ground for animal tracks. You’d be surprised how much is actually going on when you stop and listen. And even if you’ve seen an abundance of the same species, consider if you’ve really taken the time to properly observe them. What might seem ordinary after a while will become special once more when you return home.
Relish The Encounter
Spotting a rhino up close was one of the most special moments on my Namibian safari. On this particular day, we had almost given up on seeing a beast lurking in the vegetation when we happened upon a family of rhinos: a male, a female and a baby. We stopped, killed the 4WD’s engine and I whipped out my camera. Our curiosity was reciprocated, and the male rhino decided to approach our vehicle. When I shot his portrait he was standing just five metres away, carefully assessing us. After taking a few frames I put down my camera and simply enjoyed this unexpected connection. Moments later he turned around and trundled back to his family. In total awe we returned to camp.
Chris Eyre-Walker is a member of the Olympus Visionary Program, a team of award-winning photographers supported by Olympus.
When I moved to Morocco my mission was to gorge on couscous, befriend a camel and maybe learn something interesting. Armed with that impressively vague itinerary, I spent my days wandering around Rabat’s winding, walled medina, zigzagging past donkey-led carts, rows of fake Adidas tracksuits and pyramids of fiery orange, scarlet and golden spices.
In my chaotic new home, I did learn a few useful things. I became adept at ignoring street harassers slinging nonsensical catcalls, like “you smile like ice cream!” and “I love you, Britney Spears! Sex! Ha ha ha!” I mastered the precarious art of the Turkish toilet while crippled with food poisoning and I even learned how to navigate – however grudgingly – a culture where women are not encouraged to stay out past sunset.
Oh, and I also learned how to shoot a gun. Although I’m American, I’ve always been baffled by my compatriots’ gun toting, NRA-loving tendencies. I never thought I’d hold a weapon more powerful than a Swiss army knife, and in all truthfulness, I’d only ever used the scissor function on one of those things. But in Morocco, I briefly transformed into a good ol’ rifle shootin’ lady.
It happened on a trip to Oulmes, a sleepy mountain village where two classmates and I befriended Hamza, the son of the town’s most prominent family. He spoke French and even a little English, and after months of essentially miming my way through Morocco, it was thrilling.
As my friends and I inhaled the crisp scent of dirt, grass and animal faeces, Hamza sidled up with a rifle. “Shoot it,” he instructed, motioning towards the open field. And instead of asking useful questions like, “why do you have a rifle?” or “are you going to murder me?” I took the heavy, antique weapon in my untrained grasp and unthinkingly pressed the trigger. “AHHHHHHH!” I screamed in tandem with the burst of noise and pressure, the force of the kickback causing me to topple backwards onto the ground.
Lying on the grass, half gasping, half giggling and perhaps now half deaf, I realised that we hadn’t cleared the field, and there could have easily been cows – or even people – meandering through the distant trees. Hamza handed me the empty cartridge, which I clutched in my sweaty fingers, worrying that I had inadvertently murdered an innocent bovine.
I thought my relationship with guns would end with that single deafening bang, but it was not to be. The next afternoon, Hamza piled us ladies into his 80s car, encouraged a singalong to his favourite song (Madonna’s “Like a Prayer”, naturally), and sped deeper into the countryside.
We arrived at a lab el baroud (fantasia) event, a traditional ceremony dedicated to celebrating the relationship between men and their horses. We crowded around a field, where men decked out in flowing white hats, tunics and pants galloped in unison on horses dressed in elaborately embroidered saddles and headgear. As the participants raced side by side, they simultaneously lifted their rifles and shot upwards in a collective bang that probably damaged what remained of my hearing.
Outside of the event, my friends and I shared a holy-shit-why-are-we-here moment, as hundreds of onlooking men gaped in our direction, as if we were the main attraction. Hamza led us past hordes of gawking men – who had likely never seen a gaggle of American women in their countryside before – and towards a gun shooting competition, where participants shot muskets at flying objects. As the objects catapulted into the air, contestant after contestant hit the mark, pulverising their targets.
“Let’s get you in the competition,” Hamza decided, corralling us to the front and ignoring my previously botched attempt at marksmanship.
The organisers seemed baffled that a) we were there in the first place and b) that foreign women wanted to participate, but ultimately decided that c) Hamza’s dad owned the town, so d) we were handed rifles.
It was approximately one million degrees outside (at a conservative estimate), and my matronly skirt stuck to my ankles, my long-sleeved shirt was drenched in sweat, and my hair frizzed out in a humidity halo. I glanced back at the crowd of bemused men, and at Hamza, who wore an “I Heart London” t-shirt. His elbows were certainly not covered.
Fuck the patriarchy, I thought, swiping at my damp forehead and lifting the rifle for “Lauren Mishandles Guns, Act 2”. Someone tossed a clay object in the air, and as it arched up to its zenith, I pulled the trigger.
This time I staggered backwards instead of falling (progress?), but the bullet zoomed at an awkward angle towards the ground, about as far from the target as I could have hoped. There was a collective murmur, and it went without saying that I was not invited to advance to the next round.
I did not, unfortunately, destroy the patriarchy with my wildly inaccurate bullet. But I did gorge on couscous, befriend a ceremonial horse (sadly, no camels that day) and learn a thing or two, which is all I ever wanted in the first place.
Art meets music at Morocco’s hottest festival. Held at Villa Janna Eco-Lodge, a beautiful palm-dotted oasis among the foothills of the Atlas Mountains near Marrakesh, this intimate four-day earth-friendly event – it’s held at the end of August each year – immerses festival-goers in a melting pot of Western and African beats, art and culture. Make a splash at the swimming pool, party as the ancients did in the amphitheatre or hang out beneath the shade of the olive fields. One thing’s for sure, this festival won’t stay secret for long. atlas-electronic.com
Become one with nature with a stay at the NAY PALAD Bird Nest. A stunning architectural feat designed to emulate the experience of sleeping like a bird, this magical abode is situated among the pristine savannah of Laikipia in Kenya, one of the most wildlife-rich destinations in Africa. It’s 360-degree views offer vistas stretching from Mount Kenya in the east to the Great Rift Valley in the west. After a day exploring the wilderness or spotting wildlife on a game drive you’ll arrive to find the lanterns lit, the linen prepared and a picnic-dinner laid out as the sun sets on the horizon. Cosy up inside on the first floor or slumber on the rooftop beneath a blanket of stars. The following morning you’ll wake with the sun, tucking into your breakfast while watching the local elephants and giraffes make for their morning drink in the river below. wilderness-safaris.com segera.com
When it comes to the ultimate nightlife in Marrakech, Comptoir Darna ticks all the right boxes. The two-storey venue is a glamorous fusion of traditional and cosmopolitan vibes, awash in dark, bold reds, cushy seating and all aglow with hundreds of candles. Settle in with a tasty variety of Moroccan and international cuisine, before the show kicks off at 10pm and the party begins. Lute players strum feverishly, their oriental folk music melding with DJ-spun beats while waiters twirl through the venue with platters of candles atop their heads and sultry belly dancers shimmy between tables, their flowing costumes taking on an almost ethereal glow in the candlelight. But the show doesn’t end there. Once you’ve dined, head to club on the second floor and boogie the night away or, if you’re ready for a more relaxed vibe, make for the outdoor patio where you can enjoy the fresh air, a smoke of the shisha pipe, and admire the stars. uk.comptoirmarrakech.com
Food Food Tour of Cairo, Egypt
Mention Egypt and the first thing that springs to mind are the great monuments of ancient times. But Egyptian cuisine is just as worthy of your attention – you simply need to know where to look. That’s where Bellies En-Route can help. Over four hours, you’ll explore downtown Cairo, weaving through busy streets and skinny alleyways into both unmarked and family-run restaurants, and tucking into local flavours far from the exhausted tourist trail while learning about Egyptian culture and history from your guide. Flatbreads, pastries, ice cream and kushari (macaroni with green lentils and rice), Egypt’s national dish, all feature throughout the tour, plus a few more unusual options you may not expect like macarona bechamel (Egyptian lasagne). We have two pieces of advice for you before you set out: don’t eat beforehand and pace yourself – you’re going to want to leave room for all the deliciousness you’re about to encounter. belliesenroute.com
South Africa is known for its stunning coastline, and to experience it in luxury, look to Birkenhead House. Located in the seaside town of Hermanus between two white sandy beach coves, the small boutique hotel is perched rather majestically on the precipice of a rocky outcrop, with front-row views of the Indian Ocean that feel both private and wild. There are just 11 rooms, each spacious, elegant and with their own individual flair – think four-poster beds, French gold antique chairs, ruby-red silk couches, free-standing bathtubs and wrap-around balconies. Despite its opulence, the house still exudes a homey feel. There’s an on-site spa, two plunge pools and delectable dining paired with local wines – the perks of being just a 45-minute drive from the Cape Winelands – but the icing on the cake is experiencing some of the best whale watching in the country from the comfort of your terrace lounger. theroyalportfolio.com
Boulders Beach looks like your average stretch of sea-meets-land, but this haven is worth more than just a fleeting look. Located in Simon’s Town on the Cape Peninsular, just a 45-minute drive south from Cape Town, and protected from large waves thanks to the ancient granite boulders surrounding it, this beach is a great spot for a refreshing dip. But what makes it exciting is the colony of African penguins who call it home, making a trip to this beach in the Table Mountain National Park Marine Protected Area a truly unforgettable experience. Relax on the shore or explore the rock pools as penguins dart around you. If you’re lucky, you might even get a little penguin perching itself onto your towel to bathe in the warm sun with you. Although the full colony lives down the road at Foxy’s Beach, Boulders is the best chance for you to get up close and personal with these sea-loving creatures. But be warned, the penguins may be friendly and used to humans, but feeding and touching them is not allowed.
From the Sky Linyanti Ebony Helicopter Flight, Botswana
As if having up-close encounters with Africa’s Big Five wasn’t already cool enough, Linyanti Ebony goes one better, taking guests to the next level – literally. Buckle up for the game experience of your life and take to the skies like the local bird life by flying in a door-less helicopter across the flood plains of Linyanti. During the dry months, the reservoirs in the northern reaches of Botswana – situated on the western boundary of the Chobe Enclave – are the only water sources to be found for miles, and animals swarm from the surrounding areas to enjoy a drink and a dip in the watering holes, transforming this area into a wildlife wonderland. Clamber aboard your flight and let the spinning blades propel you into the golden skies where you’ll feel the wind whip through your hair as you spot elephants and hippos splashing about while giraffes and impalas roam wild in the rugged marshes below. It’s a unique perspective of the land and one that will leave you on a high long after you’ve touched down. africanbushcamps.com
Established as West Africa’s first French settlement in 1659, Saint-Louis was once the capital of Senegal but lost that title to the city of Dakar in the early 1900s. That hasn’t stopped Saint-Louis from evolving, though. Over the last nearly four centuries, the city’s striking colonial architecture, thriving and colourful fishing ports, horse-drawn carts and, in recent years, world-renowned annual jazz festival have left many enamoured by its charm, and it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000. Visitors will find the old town on a stretch of land situated on the Senegal River, accessible only by crossing the Pont Faidherbe, a 507-metre-long bridge that connects to the mainland where the rest of the city runs trails across the land. Spend your days sampling the local cuisine, dancing to local beats or catching some rays on the golden beaches.
In the decades since their civil war, Liberia has built a name for itself in the surfing community. With pristine, untouched beaches and clear blue waters, surfers of all abilities can hit the waves with confidence. To experience the best that this coastline has to offer, surfers can stay at Kwepunha Surf Retreat, which aims to become the leading surf lodge in Liberia and create a solid foundation for surf tourism in West Africa. Step outside the hotel and you’ll be moments from Fisherman’s Point, a strip that’s ideal for beginners on an average day, but recommended for intermediate to experienced surfers on a good day. Other ideal locations not far away include Robertsport, Cotton Tree Point and Shipwrecks. Whether you’re looking for a new activity to learn or pushing the limits of your surfboard, Liberia’s surf has got you covered. kwepunha.com
Lighthouse Lighthouse Restaurant and Lounge, Four Seasons, Seychelles
In the outer isles of the picturesque Seychelles, standing tall with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean, you’ll find the Lighthouse Lounge. Newly constructed as part of the Four Seasons Hotel on Desroches Island, the Lighthouse offers fine dining in a relaxed environment. Cobbled floors and walls bring timeless charm to modern dining elegance. With the option of 16 outdoor lounge chairs on the upper terrace or indoor dining on the lower level, you’ll be able to feast on a menu of organic meats and fresh seafood while the sun sets beyond the horizon and you bask in the glow of the 180-degree views. fourseasons.com
Adrenaline Rush Lava Tunnels of Saint Phillipe, Réunion Island
If you have ever wanted to journey beyond the earth’s surface to see what lies beneath, this might be your best chance. On the south-east coast of Réunion Island you can delve deep into the bowels of the earth below some of the most active volcanoes in the world. Uncover the metallic shapes moulded from hardened lava and see the roots of trees and plants that bring life to the surface above. Navigate the lava tunnels and caves with a local guide who will teach you all there is to know about the island’s volcanic activity. Be sure to bring a change of clothes and big water bottle though because temperatures below ground are hot and humid. While you won’t have to do any crawling or squeeze yourself into tight spaces, you may want to sit this one out if you have an unfriendly relationship with claustrophobia. adrenaline-hunter.com
This natural wonder is a site to behold. At around 125 metres below sea level, the salt pools of Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression are one of the lowest points on earth. These hot springs glow iridescent yellows and greens, the neon colours created by the hot magma that simmers below the surface, dissolving thick layers of sulphur and other minerals that linger in the earth. This mostly inhospitable land is one of the harshest environments known and mostly sustains micro-organisms. If you’re brave enough to make the trip, be sure to wear light layers because temperatures here average 41°C daily and can reach heights of 55°C, making the Danakil Depression the hottest inhabited place on earth.
Sometimes it’s more fun to watch than participate. That is definitely the case when it comes to Senegalese wrestling. The origins of this national sport date back to the traditions of the Sérères tribe, whose men would fight to determine the village champion. Traditionally called lutte in French or laamb in Wolof, opponents face each other in a combination of boxing, wrestling and hand-to-hand combat. The objective is for one wrestler to throw his opponent to the ground outside of the designated wrestling ring. If he can achieve this, he will be dubbed the champion. This rough and tumble sport has become one of the most popular sports in Senegal and is not to be missed if you want to see some hardcore competition.
Beach Safari Beach Safari on horseback, Mozambique
When we think of African safaris, a beach safari on horseback isn’t exactly what crosses our mind. But along the glistening coasts of Mozambique, Pat and Mandy Retzlaff and their horses offer trail rides and safaris along the untouched white sands and over towering cliffs of the Vilancuios Coast and Benguerra Island. The history of Mozambique Horse Safari started with Zimbabwe’s redistribution program, which left the owners with just a few hours to flee the intensifying land invasion. With the collection of 104 horses, gathered from neighbours and farmers along the journey, the duo eventually settled in the coastal town of Vilankulo and offered horseriding trails along the beach. Now, with 30 horses in the stable, Mozambique Horse Safari offers a personalised experience for each of its guests with two- to five-hour itineraries. Canter along the glistening waters of Mozambique’s coast, cross sandy dunes and see expansive hilltop views from the back of a valiant steed. mozambiquehorsesafari.com
Treehouse andBeyond Lake Manyara Tree Lodge, Tanzania
Stay in the heart of the African jungle at andBeyond’s luxury Manyara Tree Lodge. Check in to one of the 10 boutique treehouse suites, each looking out onto a lush green canopy and the Lake Manyara National Park from your own private deck. In a remote section of the park, these private stilted treehouses have been constructed so you can have a more intimate encounter with the local wildlife. During daily safari rides, you’ll see the famed tree-climbing lions as well as some of Africa’s other most iconic animals. Communal dining and a swimming pool lets you kick back and watch the life of the mahogany forest unfold around you. This isn’t quite like the rustic treehouse from your childhood though, with accommodation sporting a more luxurious touch. andbeyond.com
Picture this: you’re out on a game drive. It’s a hot day and, as beads of sweat blossom on your brow, you find yourself wishing you could splash about in the watering hole alongside the four-legged locals. Eventually you pull up to Jabali Ridge, a secluded retreat perched atop a rocky hilltop, and find your very own watering hole in the form of a gleaming infinity pool. Here you can laze away the rest of the afternoon, luxuriating in the cool waters while looking out across the arid plains sprinkled with baobab trees and palms of Ruaha National Park that stretch all the way out to Mwagusi River. The park is renowned for hosting lions, elephants, leopards and buffalo, and with views this good you might consider abandoning the 4×4 altogether and watch the wildlife from the pool. asiliaafrica.com
Mnemba Island is a 20-minute boat ride from Zanzibar and is the epitome of paradise. Atop its white sands and surrounded by the azure ocean is the island’s exclusive andBeyond Mnemba Island Resort. Just 24 guests can stay at any one time, making it a dream island getaway for those wanting to escape. From your beachside bungalow, watch the waves lap against the pristine shore before wandering around the island to mingle with the local wildlife or dive into the clear waters to discover what’s lurking beneath. Snorkelling, birdwatching, fishing and a variety of water sports are all on offer or, if you prefer, you can take advantage of the rare serenity and do absolutely nothing at all. andbeyond.com
We had to put Africa’s coolest country to a vote. The diverse continent offers so much variety, it was hard to choose just one. But for a small country that totals 236,040 square kilometres in size (about the same size as Victoria, Australia), it sure covers a lot of ground in terms of things to do and see. Its landscape weaves between terrain like an art form, patterning between the Rwenzori Mountains (Africa’s tallest), the River Nile, national parks, waterfalls and wildlife sanctuaries. And with such diversity, Uganda is also known for its abundant wildlife, including the Big Five and its famed gorilla and chimpanzee populations. There’s a reason Winston Churchill called it “the Pearl of Africa” after all, writing in his book, “For magnificence, for variety of form and colour, for profusion of brilliant life – bird, insect, reptile, beast – for vast scale…” But away from the rawness of the Ugandan landscape also lies the engaging attractions of its capital, Kampala. Here, you’ll see the country’s rich and dark history meld with modern-day Africa, where shopping, hawkers, and nightlife rule the roost. And if that’s not enough to get you there, then throw in the shining Ugandan hospitality where you’ll be welcomed by the warm and friendly nature of the people, and you have yourself the coolest country in Africa. visituganda.com
As the sun sets over Zanzibar City, the spirit of Stone Town comes alive. This vibrant transformation sees this neighbourhood turn into the dream of every foodie. The open-air Night Market sees chefs in bright white toques stream in to prepare and showcase their masterful dishes. Stroll through the Forodhani Gardens and munch on the endless blend of cultures and cuisines. Arab and Persian flavours mixed with Indian spices and Swahili culture to form local delicacies like no other. The influence of the spice trade through Zanzibar has left its mark, still seen in the food you can buy at the market. Sweet or salty, spicy or mild, seafood or meat; anything you’re in the mood for you’ll be able to find in one of the makeshift kitchens set up at each store. And be prepared to barter – it’s all part of the fun here.
Thought to be 120,000 to 180,000 years old, this Kenyan cave-turned-restaurant on the country’s southern shores is a must for food-loving geologists. Aside from the addition of the kitchen and bathrooms, the interconnected chambers of the cave restaurant have been mostly untouched by the current occupants, left to exist in its organic beauty. Using the cave’s natural crevices, Ali Barbour’s has created an intimate atmosphere with soft lighting giving way to the view of the heavens above. With a diverse menu and options to suit the fussiest of eaters, their speciality lies in creating delectable seafood dishes. Choose from the prawns bathed in garlic, lobster in a creamy white sauce or a pan grilled barracuda – your tastebuds will not be disappointed. This is a delight for the senses – as your mouth waters at the toothsome food and your eyes dart around the dazzling surroundings. alibarbours.co
Many perceive Sudan as an unsafe travel destination – its reputation for civil war in the south is well known – but that doesn’t mean it’s unsafe to travel everywhere. Its northern reaches are safer. In fact, the Sudanese are some of the most hospitable people you’ll meet. And what few know is that about 48 kilometres off the coast of Port Sudan, below the surface, is some of the best diving in the Red Sea (and Africa). Here, the lagoon is teeming with hammerhead sharks, grey reef sharks, barracudas, pods of dolphins and corals. Before you reach this spot, though, you’ll encounter the famous Precontinent II, a underwater station of capsules built by famed oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau in 1963, where he and five other researchers lived 10 metres below the ocean’s surface for 30 days to study the effects of living underwater. Captured on film with hand-held cameras, their movie World Without Sun won an Academy Award for Best Documentary.
The rugged peaks of the Simien Mountains are often blanketed in misty forest and are home to endemic animals like Gelada baboons, Walia ibex, mountain goats and Ethiopian wolves. It’s one of the most epic landscapes on the African continent. Upon touring Addis Ababa and a spectacular flight to Gondar, you’ll begin your trek from Debarq, where you traverse lush valleys with grazing horses and past villages and thundering waterfalls, admiring the stunning views of gorges and mountains along the way, before climbing through lobelia forests and making the ascent over rocky outcrops to the summit of Ras Dashen, Ethiopia’s highest mountain. Once at the top, it becomes clear why this place was dubbed the ‘roof of Africa’. The trek down, while challenging, is no less beautiful, with more opportunities to spot wildlife and experience the stunning views. Exodus Travels offer 13-day treks through the Simien Mountains from AU$4911, including accommodation, transport, activities, tour guide, porters and most meals. exodustravels.com
The Blue Train offers luxury modern travel at its finest. At the time of its creation, the dream was to engineer a train that could travel from Cape Town to Cairo. Though that dream was never realised, the Blue Train lives on to traverse the mountains and plains of the South African landscape. Travelling between Cape Town and Pretoria, this luxurious 27-hour journey will give you a taste of some of South Africa’s spectacular scenery, and features off train excursions in Kimberley and Matjiesfontein, award-winning wines and five-star food. If you’d prefer to stay aboard you won’t be left wanting for things to do, with a lavish boutique, observation car, lounge and bar. Make no mistake, this is one of the most luxurious train journeys you’ll ever experience – think butlers, smoking carts, and gold-tinted windows – and you’ll be quite literally dining like royalty (Blue Train notes it has served kings and presidents). bluetrain.co.za
If it’s an island getaway with perfect golden beaches that you’re after, Mauritius might just be the stop for you. Remaining relatively untouched, Mauritius is bathed in natural beauty. This island nation, in the heart of the Indian Ocean, is strewn with waterfalls, lush mountain peaks, hidden lagoons and endless ocean depths to explore. The island’s historical French, Chinese and Indian influences have created a diversity that’ll entice your senses, from the food and drink, to the language and architecture. Several of the island’s sites, including the Le Morne Cultural Landscape, fall under the protection of UNESCO’s World Heritage List in an attempt to preserve the island’s beauty and history. For a sustainable way to travel, check out Mauritius Conscious. mauritiusconscious.com
There can be no denying that the most famous pyramids in the world are Egypt’s Great Pyramids of Giza. But did you know that on the banks of the River Nile, in the heart of the Sudanese desert sits a collection of some 200 pyramids. The forgotten pyramids of Meroë were once the centre of the ancient Kingdom of Kush, now modern-day Sudan. Though it was founded around 750BC, Meroë was not named the Kushite capital until 590BC after the fall of Napata. Ruled by the Nubian kings, Meroë thrived along a well-formed trade route that provided resources for the region. This UNESCO World Heritage Site now stands as a reminder this ancient civilisation’s history and is a place of burial for the former kings and queens of the lost nation.
There are less than 300 mountains gorillas left on the planet, but on this four-day adventure with Bench Africa you’ll not only be able to see them up close, you’ll learn about the impressive conservation efforts being implemented to protect them. Bisate Lodge, a luxe sustainable conservation retreat, is not only insanely comfortable – situated within an eroded volcano, its six rooms, each with ensuite, feature domed ceilings, plush rugs and open fireplaces – it’s also the ideal launch point for your expedition into the wild thanks to its proximity to park headquarters.
Guided by an expert tracker, you’ll wade through the dense scrub of Volcanoes National Park, home to rare golden monkeys, spotted hyena, bushbuck and more than 170 bird species, in search of one of the 12 habituated groups of mountain gorilla and the ultimate meet-and-greet. Time in the company of the mountain gorillas is limited to just one hour each day to prevent impacting their behaviour or potentially passing on disease, but every moment in their presence, up close and in their natural habitat, is a humbling one that will make sixty minutes feel like the blink of an eye. benchafrica.com
An unparalleled oasis in the middle of the African jungle is what you’ll find at Mfuwe Lodge’s Bush-Spa. Located inside the South Luangwa National Park, go from a safari in the morning to enjoying the Bush-Spa’s luxurious treatments in the afternoon. You can have the stress massaged away by a professional while hippos wade in the pond next to you. Highly trained staff perform therapeutic treatments with a focus on using naturally sourced local ingredients. Have a facial or a herbal foot bath and look out on the abundance of wildlife that wanders through the park. From elephants to lions, you’ll see it all and leave feeling revitalised and blissfully relaxed. bush-spa.com
Church Basilica of Our Lady of Peace of Yamoussoukro, Ivory Coast
Many would say that the largest church in the world can be found in Rome, but there’s another blessed-structure that often gets overlooked. Modelled on St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the monolithic structure of the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace of Yamoussoukro not only stretches across a whopping 30,000 square metres, features 24 stained glass windows and can accommodate up to 18,000 worshippers, but it also shoots past its Roman counterpart in height by 70 feet, making it the largest church in the world. Crafted from marble imported from Italy, the church was constructed in the capital of Côte d’Ivoire by president Félix Houphouët-Boigny, who wished to memorialise himself. The basilica garnered much international controversy during its construction between 1985 and 1989 as the country was going through an economic crisis at the time – the opulence juxtaposed with the impoverished town’s lack of running water did not play well. Today, tourists mostly enjoy its grandiosity, while only a couple of hundred parishioners attend its weekly mass. It’s a magnificent site to behold.
Gallery A Sentence is an Archipelago of Words, Namibia
In the desert of Namibia, on the grounds of the Solitaire Lodge, is the A Sentence is an Archipelago of Words art installation. The art is just one piece of a larger project called Kcymaerxthaere, a globally intricate storytelling project about a parallel universe also called Kcymaerxthaere created by Eames Demetrios. There are 134 installations (with more on the way) in over 27 countries that help tie this story together. Each of the cement islands placed in the burnt red ground represents a continuing part of the story about this alternate world. Solitaire Lodge represents part of the Parallel Universe in which it’s a culture that believe every word, in every language, is the name of another dimension. Once you visit this Namibia art site, you’ll want to go searching for all the other pieces. kcymaerxthaere.com
Dress to impress and get ready to party with elite at Cape Town’s hottest club. Injecting an adrenaline-pumping shot of classic cosmopolitan glamour into the heart of the city, Cocoon is set to heat things up. Spread out across 830 square metres, this super club is not only so big it has an east and a west wing, but it takes over the enviable position of the ABSA building’s 31st floor, overlooking the glittering lights of Cape Town and out to Table Mountain, the harbour and the ocean beyond. Inside, marble surfaces, glowing pillars and mirrored walls are illuminated by neon lights and glittering chandeliers while speakers pump house, hip-hop, RnB and the occasional retro mix. For the ultimate high-society night out, book an opulent private glass booth with VIP bottle service. cocooncapetown.com
Soaring above the ground, atop a jagged hilltop you will find a unique structure overlooking the Ethiopian desert. You would be forgiven for thinking this strange sculpture looks as though it has been taken straight from the set of a fantasy movie. But this construction of steel, glass and concrete is a restaurant called Ben Abeba, owned by a former Scottish professor, Susan Aitchison, in partnership with Lalibelian local, Habtamu Baye. The restaurant is set against the breathtaking backdrop of Lalibela, but overlooks many ancient villages, hills and rivers that surround the restaurant situated at an altitude of 2800 metres above sea level. The menu offers a range of traditional Ethiopian cuisine along with western style dishes covering breakfast, lunch and dinner, with all food sourced from local farmers. Ben Abeba’s whacky structure compliments the ancient stone landscape, and its mix of walkways, fire pits and shapes makes this one architectural delight you’ll not forget in a hurry. benabeba.com
Between the Zambezi and Limpopo rivers sits a fortified medieval kingdom. Dating back to around the eleventh century, this UNESCO World Heritage-listed site is the largest of its kind on the Zimbabwe plateau. The turrets and towers of this stone kingdom were constructed from granite and create architecture that goes unmatched elsewhere. At the epitome of its time, this landmark is believed to have been a major trading centre, and today, as a testament to the history of this ancient site, artefacts that were left behind now sit on display. You can see Persian pottery, Chinese scrolls and Indian ornaments crafted from brass. Getting to the ruins can be time consuming with the closest town to the site being Masvingo, which is a five-hour bus ride from Harare, the country’s capital. From Masvingo, drive or catch a taxi to the ruins. greatzimbabweruins.com
When we discovered a spot dubbed Sundowner Rock, perched on a hillside in Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve at Sasaab Lodge, we didn’t need telling twice. Looking out over the 9500-square-kilometre Laikipia Plateau, home to vibrant plains dotted with acacia trees, the Samburu Special Five – the Beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Gret’s zebra, Gerenuk antelope and Somali ostrich – and views of the jagged Mount Kenya, the country’s highest peak (second only to Kilimanjaro), this rock promises a sunset tipple you’ll be talking about for years to come. As the golden orb slowly sinks towards the horizon, sip your bevvy, bask in its rays and enjoy the show. The experience is hosted by Sasaab Lodge, which offers Moroccan-styled tents with four-poster beds, open-air bathrooms and private plunge pools overlooking the Ewaso Nyiro River where game thrive, as well as bush walks and cultural experiences with the Samburu people. thesafaricollection.com
It’s featured in some of Hollywood’s biggest blockbusters from Gladiator and The Mummy to Jesus of Nazareth and Lawrence of Arabia (the latter which resulted in a large portion of it being rebuilt) but that’s not why you should visit Aït Benhaddou. Situated at the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed site was once a prominent trading post between Sudan and Marrakech via the Draa Valley and Tizi n’ Telouet pass and is made up of numerous Kasbahs dating back to the seventeenth century. You’ll find a mosque, high towers, a fortification, a public square and two cemeteries among various living quarters while wandering among its crumbling walls – all which represent a magnificent example of pre-Saharan earthen clay architecture. The city is a 32-kilometre journey from Ouarzazate, the nearest town, and can be reached by taxi or, if you’re feeling energetic (or bonkers) and have three hours on either side of your visit spare, by bicycle.
Game Safari Kalahari, the Delta & Beyond, Botswana
The novice sees Botswana’s rainy summer and avoids it. The safari aficionado, however, sees green season, when the wilderness comes to life with new baby animals, and signs up without hesitation. The gang at Natural Habitat Adventures know it too, and their new safari through the Kalahari, the Delta and beyond takes just seven intrepid travellers into its heart as Mother Nature breathes new life across the land. You’ll begin with a sunset cruise along the Zambezi River in Zambia and feel the spray from the thundering Victoria Falls at its most powerful, before making your way into the Okavango Delta. The vast network of floodwaters throughout the Central Okavango and Santawani Reserve are brimming in some parts and receding in others, creating opportunities for adventures by boat, mokoro (dugout canoe), 4×4 and on foot as buffalo, blue wildebeest, giraffe, zebra and hippos frolic in the flourishing vegetation and predators like lions, leopards and wild dogs come out to play. Among the dunes of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, you’ll track red hartebeest, springbok, honey badger and mongoose drawn to the petrified riverbeds flourishing grasses and, if you’re lucky, see black-maned Kalahari lions and cheetahs. nathab.com
While some hotels focus on what’s inside four walls, Nkwichi has done away with them entirely, using nature as its canvas. Situated beneath sky awash with glittering stars, surrounded by waves washing up on the shore and the symphony of the local wildlife, the Lake of Stars Bed at Nkwichi is one of Africa’s best-kept secrets. Set up on the fringes of Lake Malawi, the bed – a rugged wooden frame draped with fine mosquito nets and lit only by the soft glow of lanterns – sits out among the elements. There’s no light pollution, mobile phone signal or internet here – guests are able to truly disconnect and immerse themselves in nature. You have the option of setting up on the sandy shores of the lake; a rock island, with lapping waters around you; or on a cliff top with spectacular views of the bay. Once you’ve settled in, a three-course dinner and a selection of sundowners are served at your star-bed location. Regardless of the spot you choose, this is the kind of stripped-back, bare-essentials experience that’s as uncommercial and off-grid as it gets. Slipping between the sheets has never been more grounding. nkwichi.com
You’ll feel like you’ve stepped straight into Star Wars in this desert escape. Located high in the NamibRand Nature Reserve, built on a dune plateau, Wolwedens Dunes Lodge offers wooden chalets from where you can gaze out onto the endless horizon of fiery red sands. With elegant dining and fine wines from the resort’s private cellar, you’ll find yourself disconnecting and getting back to nature in style. If you struggle to sit still, a range of activities are also available. Drift high into the sky in a hot-air balloon, take a walking tour and experience the grand magnitude of the dramatic landscape, or immerse yourself in the culture with a tour of the village. There’s even the opportunity to unwind further with a massage surrounded by the endless skies and vast plains of the reserve. wolwedans.com
On our Best of Morocco trip, you will have the chance to visit the breathtaking Todra Gorge, a huge rock formation that plunges 300-metres down to a clear, flowing river.
Surrounded by rocky outcrops, there are several Berber villages scattered around, and a few of these spots are occupied by Berber nomad families. During our two-day stay in the area you will embark on a guided walk that will take you up the valley and right to the top of the gorge along a series of gravelly walking paths. The views that surround you are, to say the least, beautiful. After a short walk across the high plateau you will have the chance to explore a set of small caves occupied by the nomads. There are also tents set up around this area, and if you’re lucky you’ll have the opportunity to sit around the fire and share a cup of mint tea with a nomad family. This sort of local interaction is unforgettable; hearing the stories and words of wisdom from people leading the nomadic-style of life is priceless.
If relaxing in your very own secluded lodge while a herd of zebra or antelope graze nearby sounds like a dream come true, then Phinda Vlei Lodge is the place for you.
This andBeyond property is a true luxury African oasis, offering an intimate and romantic safari experience without having to leave the comfort of your accommodation.
Recently refurbished and boasting a strong, rich identity, Phinda Vlei Lodge’s fresh new interiors have been inspired by the elegant, turn of the century plantation-style homesteads of KwaZulu-Natal’s sugar cane and pineapple barons.
The main guest area features an impressive library, while the fire pit setting is the ideal location for pre-dinner drinks.
The interiors are an eclectic mix of curated antiques, collectibles and tapestries, accompanied by elegant crystal and silverware, while the all-weather dining deck has been extended to allow for covered al fresco dining with stunning views of the adjoining wetland.
Guests can enjoy air-conditioned comfort in each of the six thatched suites, which are designed to ensure exclusivity and privacy. There’s also access to a dressing room and spacious ensuite bathroom, both of which ooze old-world opulence.
If that’s not enough luxury for you, your stay at Phinda Vlei Lodge includes a personalised butler service, in-room massage options, three daily meals and all beverages, and transfers to and from the lodge airstrip.
The suites are situated on the edge of the sand forest and open meadow, meaning you’ll never miss out on any of the wildlife action. So whether you’re unwinding in bed, taking a shower or cooling down in your private plunge pool, you’re guaranteed sweeping views of the ever-changing wildlife landscape.
I’m being given the cold shoulder. It’s my fault; all the gelada monkey wants to do is dig into the ground for fresh, juicy grass and eat in peace, but from a few metres away, I’m pointing a camera lens in his face. His reaction is still surprisingly human, and a little at odds with the rest of the primates’ behaviour. Minutes before, I’d seen adults having rambunctious sex, not caring at all that they were surrounded by friends and family, including their offspring and the male’s other ‘wives’. When it comes to eating, though, it seems they prefer a little privacy.
Spending time with the geladas is fascinating, and the remarkable Simien Mountains in northern Ethiopia is the place to do it. There are around 10,000 of them in this luscious, mountainous region, and although those living inside the national park are wild, they’re habituated enough to the presence of humans that, except for sudden moves or loud noises, I can sit among them as they go about their daily monkey business.
Each morning, as the day warms, troops of monkeys come up from the cliffs where they sleep, moving in chain-like lines to coalesce on the Simiens’ grand plateaus. “You’re very lucky,” wildlife guide Dani Fikru tells me when I pack up the camera for the day. “I never saw so many together. There must be at least 400 out there today.”
I’ve come to Ethiopia to seek out the wildlife in the country’s highlands, including Simien Mountains National Park up north and Bale Mountains National Park in the remote south. Endemic species like the geladas and Ethiopian wolves sit high on my list of hope-to-sees.
From the bustle of the country’s capital, Addis Ababa, a plane carries me to the ancient city of Gondar before I journey north with Ethiopian guide Dawit Teferi to Limalimo Lodge, a new opening located inside Simien Mountains National Park that promises understated luxury.
It doesn’t take long before the first gelada makes an appearance. Drawing back the curtains on the first morning, I spy a big male prowling through the forest below, and a mother passes by the window with her infant riding on her back. Over breakfast, a bearded vulture, known locally as ‘bone breakers’ because they smash bones from carcasses against rocks to get the soft marrow inside, rises up the hillside. Spotting wildlife among the deep gorges, interwoven forests and imposing outcrops of the majestic Simiens isn’t going to be a problem.
With Dawit, Dani and an armed ranger piled into our 4WD, we venture into the mountainous park.
Formally established in 1966 and one of the world’s first natural UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Simien Mountains National Park spans 412 square kilometres – roughly the size of Barbados – and ranges in altitude from 1900 metres to the 4533-metre peak of Ethiopia’s highest mountain, Ras Dashen.
Before long, we notice geladas munching their way across the hillside. “They eat one kilo of grass each day,” Dani tells me.
Between mouthfuls of grass blades, they huddle together and pick at each other’s fur. “It’s a ‘you-scratch-my-back, I’ll-scratch-yours’ situation,” Dani says. “Thirty to 40 per cent of their day is spent grooming. They’re picking out parasites, but it also has social value, a way to show friendship.”
The geladas gambol across the verdant hills. Infants tumble playfully, while others hitch rides on their mothers’ backs. A male gelada stands on all four paws, keeping watch over his ‘family’, which can include anywhere between seven and 14 wives.
“The male looks after his family,” Dani explains. “Leopards and hyenas are their natural predators. It’s why the Simiens are such a good place to see geladas – they like the big open areas and they have the safety of the cliffs to go to at night. They feel safe here.”
The signature red patch on the chest explains their alternate moniker ‘bleeding heart monkeys’, while the shaggy coats and thick manes of the adult males have earned them the nickname ‘lion monkeys’.
Despite the baboon-like appearance, Dawit explains the geladas are actually part of the monkey family (baboons are their own genus). “Nowadays, scientists say they’re technically gelada monkeys.
“They look like baboons, behave like baboons, but they have different DNA. Genetically, they’re more similar to a monkey that was historically in this area of Africa. The same thing happened with the Ethiopian wolf. It used to be called the Simien fox, but they found out the closest relative was the grey wolf, even though it looks like a fox.”
It’s not just geladas here, though. As we hike out to a ledge, we spot a bushbuck among the trees and small klipspringers on the cliffs below. Dawit and Dani list the exotic names for the impressive procession of birds of prey that soar across the canyon: griffon vulture, augur buzzard, Verreaux’s eagle.
Giant lobelia trees pop up between grasslands and rocky structures indicating we’re reaching the high altitudes we need in search of the endemic ibex. Its distinctive long, curved horns silhouetted against the sky appear in Dani’s binoculars, and we find another two closer to Bwahit Pass. As we try to keep up with the sauntering animal, it’s evident its legs and lungs are far better suited to the 4300-metre altitude we’re currently exploring. That explains my shortness of breath.
Leaving the Simiens behind us, it takes a full day of driving from Addis Ababa through the country’s south-eastern grasslands to reach Bale Mountains National Park. We’ve barely arrived when we spy the curved horns of mountain nyala (an antelope unique to this region), warthogs and Anubis baboons all gathered by a river. Hiding high up in the trees are shy colobus monkeys.
As we drive through plains that stretch to the horizon or climb slowly up to an escarpment, there’s and incredible feeling of space. Only occasionally, through the window, do we see distant figures of local people travelling from village to village.
By evening, we’ve passed through the national park to reach the warmth of the fireside at Bale Mountain Lodge, set within the thick greenery of Harenna Forest. Mist lingers over the treetops that cover the hillsides, and the forest rises up to a high jagged ridge.
On the road to the Sanetti Plateau, we pass by colourfully painted mosques and through several small villages within the national park. Clouds rise up from the valleys and onto the peaks, creating enough moisture to explain why the 4000-metre-high ground of the plateau is so green and fertile – there are more than enough small lakes, rivers and plant life to make this area an attractive home for the wildlife.
It’s in this region that we’re most likely to see the Ethiopian wolves. “There are possibly 200 here, out of a population of 500 in the country,” Dawit tells me. The abundance of giant mole-rats plays a role in the wolves’ attraction to this region; there’s plenty of food for the wolves to consume.
We search with binoculars to see if we can find any of the elegant golden animals, which, according to local guide Kassim Datu, sometimes hide among the cows to get closer to the mole-rats.
We spy two wolves among a cluster of rocks. They’re orange and look like foxes, but larger and more powerful. We see a third wolf down in the valley and, later, three smaller ones on the hillside, most likely hunting.
More emerge the next morning. Our first sighting is a wolf stalking geese down by a stream. Another crosses the road, pausing to nose and paw at holes, in search of food. Further along, we see three down in the valley. “That’s amazing,” says another local guide, Ziyad Kemal. “Five pups in one morning.”
It’s been a lucky day, but the Ethiopian wolf is are the most endangered canid in the world and Africa’s most threatened carnivore, and numbers are declining. “I see less today than I did five years ago,” says Dawit. “There’s a lot more land under cultivation, so they’ve lost habitat. But the main problem is people’s dogs and diseases like rabies and distemper.”
We drive to the summit of Mount Tullu Dimtu, the highest peak in the Bale area, for rewarding views of mist rolling across the mountains before a hike across the spectacular Sanetti Plateau. The warm sun brings out the bright greens of the grasses and spiky leaves of the giant lobelia, and enhances the pinks and yellows of Afro-alpine flowers. The plateau is alive with birdsong. Starck’s hares bolt to safety, disturbed by our presence, while a pair of lammergeier (bearded vultures) circle high up in the cloud.
Augur buzzards glide over the plateau or perch on the trunks of lobelia, scanning the surroundings for an afternoon meal. It shouldn’t take them long here.
That’s just how it is in Ethiopia’s remarkable highlands – wherever you look, there are signs of life or, depending on your perspective, lunch.
Join the Western world’s fastest growing religion at the Buddhist Retreat Centre near Durban in South Africa.
Perched on a ridge at the head of the picturesque Umkomaas Valley, the centre is testament to Buddhism’s pervasive reach since its birth in the Indian subcontinent more than 2000 years ago.
Choose from a multitude of spiritual retreats led by learned practitioners in their respective fields, whether it be tai chi, chi kung, yoga and Ayurvedic healing, spiritual healing, meditation or writing.
Alternatively, indulge in a ‘self retreat’ and spend solitary time in the meditation forest, visit the stupa and the raked Zen sand gardens or explore 120 hectares of rolling hills, valleys and forests.
As the first luxury safari cruise ship in Africa, the Zambezi Queen sets the standard rather high. This chic floating hotel boasts panoramic views of the famous Chobe National Park, home to an astonishingly dense population of wildlife. Gawk at elephants from the comfort of your bed, or opt for a small boat excursion for a more up-close view. Don’t fancy a dip with the crocodiles? Instead, why not retreat to the top-deck spa with a glass of Stellenbosch’s finest as a herd of zebra graze just metres away.
The Blue Train offers luxury modern travel at its finest. As one of the world’s great luxury train journeys, South Africa’s Blue Train journeys between Pretoria and Cape Town and was named Africa’s Leading Luxury Train by the World Travel Awards for eight consecutive years from 2009 to 2017.
At the time of its creation, the dream was to engineer a train that could travel from Cape Town to Cairo. Though that dream was never realised, the Blue Train lives on to traverse the mountains and plains of the South African landscape.
Traditionally an overnight experience, 2019 will see the addition of a second night making this train journey across some of South Africa’s spectacular scenery a three day and two night experience. It also features off train excursions in Kimberley and Matjiesfontein.
On board you’ll be treated to award-winning South African wines and five-star food offers as a multi-course sittings. All beverages are included in the fare and breakfast or dinner can be served either in your compartment or in the dining car. Snacks are on offer too!
With personal butlers at your service 24 hours a day, once on board, all you need to look forward to is the impossibly impeccable service, the incredible attention to detail and a thoroughly luxurious and relaxing journey ahead.
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