There’s a lot that can go wrong on a winter trip to Steamboat Springs.
For instance, you might decide that Bloody Marys make an acceptable breakfast, or that horseback riding in sub-zero temperatures is a smart idea. Or—and I’m just throwing this out there—you might find yourself clinging to a sheet of ice at Fish Creek Falls, wondering if you’ve finally lost the plot entirely. Welcome to my list of the most epic things to do in Steamboat Springs this winter.
1. Have Bloody Marys for breakfast
The weekend trip all starts innocently enough. We roll into Steamboat Springs, and I’m immediately struck by how postcard-perfect everything looks. Snow-dusted trees, cozy cabins, and that crisp, mountain air that makes you feel like you’re in a Hallmark movie—only with more opportunities to injure yourself.
Our first stop? Breakfast. And by breakfast, I mean a Bloody Mary that could double as a garden salad. We stroll into a little joint off Lincoln Avenue where the Bloody Marys are legendary. And by legendary, I mean they come with a side of sausage, pickles, and whatever else they can skewer onto a toothpick.
The first sip hits like a cold shower after a night out, which is to say it’s both terrifying and exactly what I need. The spice kicks in, my eyes water, and before I know it, I’m on my second one, convinced that this is how all great ski days begin. With our bellies (and blood alcohol levels) sufficiently primed, we head for the slopes.
2. Ski down the snow-covered slopes
Steamboat’s known for its “Champagne Powder,” which is essentially snow so perfect it makes you wonder why you don’t ski more often. The answer, as I quickly discover, is because skiing is hard, and I’m not as coordinated as I like to pretend.
We start with a few runs on the easy slopes to warm up. By “we,” I mean everyone else, while I spend most of my time getting reacquainted with the ground. It’s like the snow has a personal vendetta against me, and I’m losing the fight. But the thing about Steamboat is that even when you’re eating snow, you’re having the time of your life. There’s something about the place—the blue skies, the endless runs, the fact that everyone around you seems to be having a blast—that makes you want to keep going, even when your legs are screaming for mercy.
After a few hours, I’m actually starting to get the hang of it. Or at least, I’m falling less frequently, which feels like progress. But just as I’m starting to feel like maybe, just maybe, I could actually be good at this, I take a spill that sends me tumbling like a poorly constructed snowman. Time to try something less likely to result in injury.
3. Horseback ride through Yampa Valley
Enter Ray Heid, the kind of cowboy who looks like he was carved out of the same rock that built the mountains around here. He runs Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch, and today, he’s taking us on a horseback ride through the snow-covered Yampa Valley.
Ray is the real deal, with a mustache that could star in its own western. He greets us with a grin that suggests he’s seen more winters than he cares to count and survived them all. We saddle up, and Ray starts telling stories—about the old days, about the cattle drives, about the time he took on a grizzly with nothing but a lasso and some frontier bravado. The man is a walking legend.
Riding through the valley is like stepping into a painting. The snow blankets everything, muffling the world until all you hear is the crunch of hooves and Ray’s voice, steady as a drumbeat. The horses navigate the icy trails with ease, and I start to relax, thinking that maybe, for once, I’ve chosen an activity that won’t end with me face-planting into snow.
But the Yampa Valley has other ideas. The trail gets steeper, the snow deeper, and suddenly I’m holding on for dear life, trying to look cool while secretly praying I don’t slide off into a snowbank. Ray, of course, just chuckles. This is nothing to him—a walk in the park. For me, it’s a reminder that I’m a city slicker playing at cowboy, and the mountains have no mercy.
4. Ice climb Fish Creek Falls
The next morning, still riding high on a cocktail of adrenaline and cowboy tales, I make the questionable decision to try ice climbing at Fish Creek Falls. “How hard can it be?” I tell myself, conveniently forgetting that I’ve never climbed anything more challenging than a ladder.
Fish Creek Falls is stunning—a frozen waterfall that looks like something out of Narnia. But as I stare up at the wall of ice, it hits me: this might be the dumbest thing I’ve ever done. But it’s too late to back out, so I strap on the crampons, grab my ice axes, and start climbing.
The first few feet are fine—exciting, even. But then I look down. Big mistake. My legs turn to jelly, and I’m suddenly aware that I’m clinging to a frozen waterfall with nothing but a few sharp objects keeping me from certain doom. My guide, who’s apparently part mountain goat, shouts encouragement, “Sit back on your feet!” he yells. Trust the crampons!” But all I can think is, “If I survive this, I’m getting another Bloody Mary.”
By some miracle (and a lot of panicked kicking), I make it to the top. My heart is pounding, my hands are numb, and I’m fairly certain I’ll never do this again. But the view from up there is worth it—snow-covered peaks stretching out in every direction, the valley below like a postcard come to life. For a moment, I forget the terror and just soak it all in, wondering how stunning it must be in summer when Fish Creek isn’t frozen. Then I remember I have to get down.
Related: Three big days in Denver
Nightlife: Bison Lasagne and Brews
5. Have dinner at Mazzola’s
Back in town, I’m more than ready for dinner. We head to Mazzola’s, a local Italian spot known for its bison lasagne. I’ve had a lot of lasagne in my time, but this? This is something else. Rich, hearty, and with just the right amount of bison to remind you you’re in the wilds of Colorado, it’s the perfect end to a day of near-death adventures.
6. Try out the town’s vibrant craft beer scene
But the night’s not over yet. Steamboat has a surprisingly vibrant craft beer scene, and we’re not leaving without sampling the goods. We hit up Mountain Tap Brewery first, where the beers are cold, the atmosphere is warm, and I’m quickly falling in love with a pint of their Cliffed Out Imperial Stout. At 8.5% it more than warms my heart. Next is Storm Peak Brewing, where the IPAs are hoppy, the conversation is lively, and I’m starting to wonder how I’ll ever go back to regular life after this.
The next morning, sore but satisfied, I find myself back at that same breakfast spot, ordering another Bloody Mary. Because if there’s one thing I’ve learned on this trip, it’s that Steamboat Springs is a place where you can push yourself to the limit—whether it’s on the slopes, on a horse, or on a sheet of ice—and still find the time to kick back with a drink in hand, laughing at the insanity of it all.
So here’s to Steamboat Springs: where the adventures are wild, the food is hearty, and the Bloody Marys are the perfect way to start—and end—your day.