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Creatures of the Tundra

Fewer travellers set foot in this remote part of Canada’s Barren Lands each year than on the summit of Mount Everest. Jad Davenport heads to the wilderness, where polar bears and beluga whales reign supreme.

Photography by Jad Davenport

We’re so close to the polar bear I can hear him snoring. Terry Elliot, a guide from the nearby Seal River Heritage Lodge, motions for us to stop walking. It’s late September and blades of sunlight slice across the western shore of Hudson Bay in Manitoba. The bear glows a bright ivory against the autumn tundra.

“He’s missing his buddy,” Terry says. “Males like this one hang out with other young males. It’s called ‘pair bonding’. They’ll spend most of their days sleeping and sparring – practice fighting – until winter comes and they can get back out on the ice to hunt seals again.”

Unfortunately these stunning moose are in decline in Manitoba. Click to view gallery

Maybe it’s the mention of seals, but the bear snorts awake and rolls to its feet. I’m suddenly aware of just how big it is and how close we are. I’m six foot, five inches tall. A full-grown male can stand twice my height and outweigh a ’68 Volkswagen Beetle.

I raise my camera when the bear grabs a dwarf willow tree in his jaws and rips it from the ground. Then he tosses the mangled vegetation at us.

Seal River offers the traveller a rare glimpse into the untamed arctic. Click to view gallery

“Is he warning us?”

Terry chuckles. “No, that’s his toy. He wants to play with us.”

While I expected to see polar bears from a distance when I arrived at Seal River several days ago, I didn’t expect to be invited into their world. This is one of the reasons the lodge is unique. Founded by a local family with Canadian and Icelandic roots, Seal River and the other four lodges owned by Churchill Wild offer guests a chance to not just see the untamed Arctic but also to immerse themselves in it, bears and all.

For the past three days, my fellow guests and I have been hiking and voyaging by Zodiac along the pristine coast. Polar bear encounters are frequent, but we’ve also howled back and forth with a pack of wolves, tracked caribou, snorkelled with hundreds of singing beluga whales (some so curious they nudged my GoPro) and explored Inuit archaeological sites.

The morning after the playful bear encounter, we leave the lodge behind for an even more remote destination. A de Havilland Otter ferries us nearly 160 kilometres northwest to Tundra Camp, Churchill Wild’s newest outpost. The wildlife here might be sparser – we spot only a family of black bears from the air – but the draw for us is the Barren Lands. This wilderness of stunted pine forests, rolling tundra and sandy eskers has a population smaller than Broome at Christmas.

Tundra Camp sits on the shores of Schmok Lake. The main base is a rustic hunting cabin and a pair of large tents – one for dining and one for briefings and bad-weather lounging. The sleeping camp – a dozen private expedition tents with cots, sleeping bags and propane heaters – is a short walk beyond the cabin.

Our two-night stay at Tundra Camp might be brief, but the remoteness and the silence of the landscape – and the prolonged hours of summer light – make the days long and full. One of the guides, Josh, leads some of the group along the lakeshore to explore the autumn landscape and pick blueberries. I join Terry and two fit South Africans on an all-day trek. There are no trails out here; we simply follow ancient caribou paths and spend hours roaming over the low granite-capped ridges. Each summit offers another never-ending panorama.

That evening, after moose lasagne and blueberry pie (the French-trained chef has been imported from Seal River), I join everyone around the campfire beside the lake. The sun is down and the Milky Way is starting to materialise. My legs are hammered and my face glows from long days of Arctic sun and wind. I’m hypnotised by the flames. “Look up,” says Terry.

The heavens ripple with tall green and purple curtains: the aurora borealis. We lean back in our chairs. A deep silence falls over us. “The Inuit believe the northern lights are the spirits of their ancestors dancing and playing in the afterlife,” says one of the campers who has travelled in Greenland.

The firewood is gone and the embers cold when we hike back to camp. Before I click off my headlamp and unzip the tent, I look up again. The shimmering spirits are still dancing over the Barren Lands.

Get There
Air Canada flights from Sydney to Winnipeg, where the trip begins, via Vancouver, start at US$1491.
aircanada.com

Tour There
Churchill Wild, a family-run outfitter and member of the Magnificent 7 Wilderness Lodges, offers Arctic and sub-Arctic safaris from July through November at its Seal River Heritage Lodge, which specialises in both polar bear viewing and seasonal snorkelling with belugas. Exclusive safaris combining visits to both Seal River and the new tented Tundra Camp in the Barren Lands are available for two weeks each September. Nine-day trips start at US$8133
churchillwild.com

Papua’s Eden

It’s dubbed the last paradise on earth. Keren Lavelle takes to the waters of Raja Ampat to see if this remote archipelago lives up to its reputation.

“OK, everybody,” instructs Aran, our Papuan guide, “move quickly. If you want to see the manta rays, out of the boat now!” We scramble over the edge and the current whisks us away from the vessel. To my surprise, the water is murky with sand – after nearly a week in the snorkelling and diving paradise of Raja Ampat, I take it for granted the water is always going to be silvery, translucent, crystal clear.

I peer hard through my snorkel mask, but can’t see much more than sunlit water filtered with motes of sand. No fish, and certainly no big black shapes. The best snorkellers in our group are diving down deep, but, one by one, they come up shaking their heads. Where are these elusive mantas?

Just as we are about to give up, Andrew, a bloke from Perth, shouts that he’s spotted them. It’s now a race, all of us swimming as fast as we can in the direction he’s pointed. Soon, I too can see these graceful black and white rays idly flapping below me, turning lazy figures of eight. I’m at Manta Sandy where these oceanic giants gather above a handful of rocks to be groomed of parasites and dead skin by wrasse fish. The mantas’ slow, balletic swoops act as a signal to the fish to come and get it.

Manta Sandy is one of the many fascinating diving and snorkelling spots to be found in the Raja Ampat archipelago – more than a thousand islands scattered over 4.5 million hectares of ocean, off the Bird’s Head Peninsula, Indonesian Papua’s northwest tip. The name Raja Ampat means four kings in Indonesian: a poetic reference to the four largest islands. It is smack-bang in the middle of the Coral Triangle, which stretches up from the Great Barrier Reef, taking in Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and parts of Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines. Raja Ampat is considered to be the richest marine environment of them all, containing 75 per cent of the world’s coral species and around 1500 species of fish.

During our week here, we are treated to several very special snorkelling destinations – all so good I’d be hard-pressed to pick a favourite. Is it the almost-pristine home reef just off the jetty at the Raja Ampat Dive Resort on Waigeo Island? Or perhaps the sandy beach on Yeben Island, where lionfish wave their airy fins as brilliant blue fish dash by? Or Mioskon Reef, where grouper, clown and parrotfish dart around corals wrinkled like oversized brains?

Near Mioskon, we swim into a limestone cave and clamber up a slippery clay slope in order to see a stalagmite shaped like a male member. “What do you call this place?” someone asks. “Penis cave,” replies Aran, not batting an eyelid. Huge schools of fish move as one in the fabulously clear water off the jetty at Sawinggrai Island, where some creatures seem to swim up just to pose for my camera. The spectacular reef cliff of Friwen Bonda boasts enormous red fan corals and fairytale mushroom-shaped ones, but I scrape my foot on a fan, so I can’t choose this as my favourite. With this many options you can afford to be ruthless.

If, as well as superb marine environments, you like a frisson of adrenaline with your aquatic adventures, you can certainly get it here. These islands are in the zone of the Indonesian throughflow, the name given to the vast volumes of water that move between the Pacific and the Indian Oceans. On our second day in Raja Ampat, we travel through the passage between Waigeo and the island of Gam in Kabui Bay. It’s so narrow it feels as if we are on a river, with mangroves on either side. The current flowing through the strip can be so strong, says Aran, that “if you’re in the water and stretch out your arms, you’ll be flying like Superman”. Imagine moving as fast as a fish.

We make an attempt to snorkel in the blue water mangroves, but the tides are against us, and the boat has to turn back before it runs aground. Quietly, I’m relieved. Observing four-metre-long manta rays at a safe distance or harmless wobbegong sharks is OK by me, but I have no desire to get acquainted with a more vicious type of shark or, for that matter, a saltwater crocodile (although that is rare).

On our way through the channel we pass a timeless scene – a small child with her mother cooking over a fire. I can hear someone chopping down a tree in the forest that springs from this seemingly inhospitable limestone rock. I’m reminded of the view flying here – tiny islets and larger, jungle-topped land masses, rising from the gleaming sea like giant lizards. No signs of human habitation. Is Raja Ampat truly “the last paradise on earth”, as the tourist slogan says? Or have we just seen Eve, and heard Adam, both hard at work? Is paradise over?

Despite appearances, some of the Raja Ampat isles are very much inhabited. A showcase of island hospitality greets us one afternoon at Sawinggrai Village on Gam Island, where joyous and very well behaved children play music, sing and dance to welcome us. Playing games afterwards, the children seem totally blasé about the sea creatures all around them in the limpid water – that is, until a large squid swims into view and the excitement level amps up. Just as we are leaving, a rainbow divides the sky and a school of silvery flying fish leaps from the water, like a neon sign flashing on and off.

One vibrantly sunny afternoon after a similar welcome on Arborek Island, we enjoy the treat of a local-style lunch. Taro, cassava and fish wrapped in banana leaves are cooked on coals buried under sand. It seems that almost all of the island’s children watch closely as the pit is uncovered and the food unwrapped. We eat our feast serenaded by musicians.

While visitor numbers to Raja Ampat sit at around 20,000 a year, tourism is growing fast. The introduction of marine protected areas has put a halt on the capture of endangered species, which bring more dollars to the area while alive and swimming than when sold for food. The financial benefit is increasingly apparent in these village communities. I’m chuffed to think that the most spectacular sight of my time here – the beautiful rays circling Manta Sandy’s cleaning station – has a direct link to the less unusual, but no less cheering sight of happy, healthy children and their families singing and playing.

Get There
AirAsia flies to Denpasar in Bali with a stop in Kuala Lumpur from about US$508 return. Domestic flights with Garuda Indonesia to Sorong, with a stopover on the way, cost about AU$335 return. At the dock in Sorong, buy a US$9 ticket for the two-hour ferry to Waisai (the capital of Raja Ampat) on Waigeo Island. Your accommodation can usually arrange a boat transfer from there.
airasia.com
garuda-indonesia.com

Tour There
Liveaboards are the traditional way to tour. These range from local enterprises, such as the KLM Insos Raja Ampat (from US$704 for a seven-day trip) to extremely luxurious options such as the yacht Lamima (from US$11,600 for seven nights).
stayrajaampat.com
lamima.com

Making Wild Tracks

Jump in a 4WD and roll into the jungles of a little-explored South American nation.

When it comes to pointing out countries on a map, Guyana is one that would likely have the fingers of even the most well-travelled of explorers hovering in midair. The compact nation sits on South America’s North Atlantic coast, wedged between Venezuela, Brazil and the equally obscure Suriname. And it’s an ecotourism gem, with few visitors to spoil the adventure.

In 14 days, many of them spent behind the wheel of a 4WD, you can explore this country’s rugged interior, a land of jungles and savannas. Start in the capital of Georgetown, where a Caribbean vibe beats against the crumbling British and Dutch colonial architecture before, quite literally, taking off. At 228 metres, Kaieteur Falls is the world’s largest single-drop waterfall – it’s five times taller than Niagara – and it’s best seen on the inbound charter flight. Once you’ve arrived, settle in to enjoy the outstanding microclimate of golden frogs, tank bromeliads and the stunning cock-of-the-rock, a tangerine-plumed bird with a head resembling a slice of citrus fruit.

Feel the rush at Kaieteur Falls. Click to view gallery

The next day it’s time to take to the road. Along the way you’ll visit the Iwokrama rainforest (one of four remaining untouched forests in the world), following its suspended walkways through the canopy to spot rare birds and monkeys, hike at dawn to the tops of mountains, experience life in an Amerindian community, glide along a river looking for giant river otters and the biggest lily pads in the world, and safari across the grasslands on the hunt for giant anteaters.

Throughout the journey, your accommodation, meals and tours will all be organised in advance, so all you need do is follow the map and take in every aspect of South America’s best-kept secret.

The 14-day self-drive Guyana Nature Experience tour with Wilderness Explorers costs about AU$7550 a person, based on two people sharing a vehicle.
wilderness-explorers.com

Fantastic Beasts

Nepal’s Chitwan National Park is home to some of the world’s rarest creatures. Tate Zandstra follows their footsteps into the Nepalese jungle.

Photography by Tate Zandstra

“Here are the pug marks of the tiger,” whispers Tulosi. The veteran guide is crouched on the trail, with soft morning sunlight burning off the fog and elephant grass towering over him. The prints are the width of my hand. “He was here this morning, maybe an hour ago.” Standing, Tulosi begins following the tracks. “This is a big male – 200, maybe 230 kilos,” he says, still whispering. In the stillness of morning, I feel a thrill – a wild tiger recently walked where I now stand.

“How far away is he now?” I ask.

“Forty or 50 metres,” Tulosi replies. “He is probably sleeping in those small trees because it is cool.” We stand and observe the spot. Finally, I ask what would happen if we followed the tiger into the trees. Tulosi glances at Sagar, his junior guide, and smiles. “I think the tiger would run away,” he says, “but we would never hear him.”

I am in Chitwan National Park, in the swampy Nepali lowlands known as the Terai. Thanks to ecotourism and law enforcement combating poaching, the national parks of Nepal, Chitwan and Bardia have recently won acclaim for the increasing populations of both tigers and rhinos. Even so, such is the elusiveness of these big cats that, until this moment, I dared not hope for so much as a paw print. As it happens, we track three more tigers during our journey, including a female with two cubs.

Late in the day, Tulosi halts. He’s spied a post hole-sized track flooding with groundwater. “Five minutes ago there was a big rhino here,” he announces, scanning the dense jungle. The rhinoceros, considered the most dangerous animal in the Terai, is the other star attraction here. Tulosi has lost two uncles to these two-tonne beasts. As dusk approaches, the animals are waking up.

We listen. But for cicadas keening, there’s silence. Something in the air changes; I hear wood splintering and have the overwhelming sense that an immense animal is tearing through the forest. Trees shake and monkeys screech. I hear mud sucking at giant feet as the crashing recedes.

“Come!” Sagar commands, darting down a game trail. I catch up to him crouching under cover on a berm overlooking the riverbank. The rhino emerges below us, 20 metres away. It snorts, holding its head high, looking for enemies in the jungle gloom.

A rhino in the Terai. Click to view gallery

Tulosi appears beside me, beckoning as he slides down the berm. Suddenly, he turns. “Run! Run!” he yells, and claws back up the steep, sandy trail. I glimpse the rhino, charging straight at us, covering ground at a terrifying pace. Then I am beside Sagar, who beats the ground with his walking stick.

The rhino stops 10 metres away, gouges furrows in the ground, then turns and sprints for the river. Tulosi is right behind him. The fear of moments ago forgotten in the chase, we run recklessly, following the huge creature. It smashes into the water, scattering crocodiles in the shallows.

The rhino reaches the far bank and turns in the orange glow of sunset, looking indignant yet majestic. “That was very scary!” Tulosi says, laughing. “How much danger were we in?” I ask. “Oh,” shrugs Tulosi, “very dangerous, he could have killed us.” Then he turns casually and walks toward town.

Get There
AirAsia flies from Sydney to Kathmandu in Nepal from US$745 return. Fly on to Bharatpur Airport with Buddha Air from US$210 return.
airasia.com
buddhaair.com

Tour There
Sauraha is the closest town to the park and the launch point for safaris. Stay at Hotel Jungle Vista and the owners, brothers Ram and Ramesh Silwal, can arrange a tour with guide Tulosi Raot. Two-night, one-day safaris start from AU$200.
hoteljunglevista.com

Meet Your Ancestors

Take a two-wheeled journey to discover Rwanda’s remotest regions and visit the country’s famous mountain gorillas.

Contemplating trekking into the wilds of Rwanda to spy the country’s famous mountain gorillas? There’s a way to have an even better experience in this fascinating nation. UK-based company the Slow Cyclist offers an epic eight-day adventure. Spend two nights acclimatising to altitude and conditions in Kigali before embarking on the first of four strenuous – Rwanda didn’t earn its nickname, the Land of a Thousand Hills, for nothing – but ultimately fulfilling days pedalling from the capital to Rubavu on the border of Congo. At times you’ll ride on bitumen roads, while elsewhere the trail will be red dirt, but if it all becomes a bit much you can always opt to jump in the support vehicle. The best part is this tour travels through regions of remote Rwanda few travellers ever experience, rolling past tea estates, sprawling lakes and smoking volcanoes.

The group size is small – just 12 (or up to 20 on a charity ride) – and the regular tour host is Michael Newhouse, a Brit who’s lived in East Africa since 2012. On each ride there’s also a number of local cyclists, guides and drivers whose knowledge of the culture is second to none. This is part of the ethos of the Slow Cyclist: to share places company founder Oli Broom loves with proper travellers. Broom was a chartered surveyor when, in 2009, he chucked in his job to cycle from London to Brisbane to watch the Ashes – it took him 412 days. After that adventure, he worked in Kigali for two years before moving back to London to establish the Slow Cyclist.

The zenith of this experience comes mid-tour. It’s billed as a rest day, but you won’t be putting up your feet. Starting early, you’ll trek through thick vegetation and along steep trails into Volcanoes National Park in the hope of finding one of the park’s 10 families of habituated gorillas. Locating them can take anywhere from an hour to eight, but when they come into view, all that hard work is rewarded. This is a rare opportunity; it’s estimated there are only about 880 mountain gorillas living in the wild and only eight park passes are issued per group in any one day. You’ll sit quietly for an hour and observe these incredible primates, thought to have split from their common ancestor to humans and chimps about nine million years ago, before heading back to camp.

The last day is a rewarding 90 kilometres back in the saddle, finishing at Lake Kivu, one of the Great Lakes. You’ll ascend 1390 metres along the base of a chain of volcanoes before tackling the final 30-kilometre downhill run that ends on the shores of the lake for a refreshing, celebratory dip.

The Slow Cyclist has four scheduled Rwanda tours during 2017 – two small group tours and two charity challenges, which involve riders donating an extra amount of money to a chosen cause. The group tours cost about US$2643, including airport transfers, bike and gear hire, guides, accommodation and most meals. Gorilla trekking costs an extra US$881.
theslowcyclist.co.uk

A Big Splash

Slip, slide and dive through the mountainous French island of Corsica.

When you think about adventure, chances are Corsica isn’t a natural segue. The Mediterranean island is best known as the birthplace of Napoleon, but beyond its picturesque bays and the capital of Ajaccio is a rugged landscape created by a single chain of granite peaks. Most travellers looking for an adventure would head straight for the GR20, one of the continent’s most popular and toughest hiking trails. Take it on and you’d be putting one foot in front of the other for 15 days to cover its 180-kilometre length and 10,000 metres of height variation.

Thankfully you can see the incredible highs and lows of the island’s interiors in a much easier way. Agnès and Pascal, both mountaineers and guides, set up Altipiani in the Corsican mountains and now run multiday canyoning tours. For between three and five hours each day you’ll explore the peaks and valleys from the water. There’ll be abseiling, tobogganing, zip-lining and plunging from the tops of cliffs into the emerald pools below at four different sites. You don’t need any specific experience; just the ability to swim, a head for heights and a hankering to discover Corsica in a completely different way.

The seven-day Altipiani canyoning trip starts at about US$745 for the camping option. You can also choose to stay in small hotels or B&Bs (about US$948). Prices include accommodation, meals, guides, equipment and transport from Corte.
altipiani-corse.com

INDONESIA
Rote Island

Rote isn’t exactly a secret for surfers, who make up most of the tourists on the island. Seasoned surfers will have heard of T-land (Besialu Reef), the more popular break on the island with three sections that can range from a smaller wave to one that tops two metres high.

The island is small, but landmass doesn’t affect its gnarly swells – after all, there’s a reason surfing champions have been known to live on the island. The stunning beaches and local culture add to the charm. Given its popularity with those looking to shred the swells, there are plenty of places to stay from hostels to resorts. The Malole Surf House is a simple, eco-friendly surf lodge located in popular Nemberala Beach, overlooking T-land.

The staff members can tell you all about the island’s best surf spots, and also run a fleet of boats that can take you there.

rotesurfhouse.com

SAMOA
Savai’i

Top-notch surfing on a Pacific island with few other people sharing the waves. That’s what you get when you pack your bags and head for the Samoan island of Savai’i. It may be one of the largest islands in Samoa, but its shred is still somewhat free of line-ups. With a glistening aquamarine ocean and a coastline full of excellent spots to grab a board, you’ll struggle to decide where to start.

Our hot tip, though, is a trip to Aganoa Lodge. Situated within an hour’s drive of multiple surf spots, Barneys will be able to hang left in the lodge’s exclusive reef-sheltered beach, while more experienced surfers will be guided to the island’s hottest breaks, with a mixture of rights and lefts up to four metres.

pegasuslodges.com

MYANMAR
Mergui Archipelago

Dive into the depths of this virtually unknown archipelago just off the south coast of Myanmar and discover an underwater world – whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, rainbows of coral, an abundance of other marine life – that could give the Little Mermaid a run for her money.

Liveaboard boats are a popular way to experience the group of 800 islands, which are covered in dense jungle growth and surrounded by azure waters. From the small fish of High Rock, the tunnels of Stewart Island, nurse sharks of Shark Cave, and the famous site of Western Rocky, plus so much more, an eight-day trip with the Smiling Seahorse will offer you the opportunity to discover the undiscovered.

thesmilingseahorse.com

Niue

The unsuspecting island of Niue may not be the most well-known dot of land in the South Pacific, but for diving enthusiasts this is a watery playground not to be missed. Visibility is unrivalled – almost as far as a hundred metres in certain areas around the island – and these are considered some of the best conditions in the world.

The top diving spots to check out on Niue are the Limu Pools, the Matapa Chasm and the Dome, a favourite among locals and tourists alike. A sloping wall, two gullies and a large open cave form the popular site, and it’s a great location for first-timers or nervous divers to gain experience. A vibrant array of anemones, moray eels and flatworms reside in these waters, and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to get in and explore if you’re game.

niuedive.com

THAILAND 
Naga Fireball Festival

A paranormal, other-worldly phenomenon or nothing more than a clever hoax? See for yourself at the Naga Fireball Festival, held in the Nong Khai province of Thailand, along the Mekong River.

The two-day festival takes place in October at the end of Buddhist Lent, when the intensity of the fireballs is said to be at its peak. Check out the long-boat racing, food fair and a light and sound presentation. The glowing fireballs appear at night and rise from the depths of the Mekong River into the air for hundreds of metres before suddenly disappearing. Many believe the fireballs come from Naga, a fabled serpent that lives in the water and shoots the orbs into the air to welcome Buddha back to earth after Lent. Skeptics say it’s nothing more than flammable phosphine gas rising from the river and spontaneously combusting. You be the judge.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Kenu and Kundu Festival 

Held annually in Alotau, the Kenu and Kundu Festival celebrates the society and traditional culture of the locals. The festival binds together the history of these people with their modern existence. One of the main highlights of the festival is the traditional war canoe races. Other events include dances, drum performances, crafts and food.

This three-day cultural celebration shares the rich history of the Papua New Guinean people from this province. Visit and you’ll have the opportunity to engage with locals and immerse yourself in a vibrant and colourful display of history.

Fiji
Cloud 9

DJs, drinks and food surrounded by translucent waters? What more could you ask of an epic island party? Cloud 9 sits atop Ro Ro Reef within the Mamanuca Islands, just a boat ride away from Port Denarau. Don’t be fooled, this is no secluded hideaway, and the party’s popularity as grown over the past few years, but it’s too cool not to include. This floating bar hosts regular DJ sets and events, and is even open to private parties.

Between downing delicious cocktails and staring out to the horizon while lounging on a day bed, you can dive into the clear waters for a snorkel, jump on a jet ski, or dig into some delicious Italian wood-fire pizzas.

cloud9.com.fj

Singapore 
It’s the Ship

Get ready for one of Asia’s biggest parties. It’s The Ship sets sail on a round trip from Singapore to Phuket and back again for a three-night festival at sea. Have access to all the ship’s amenities including its 12 bars, seven eateries, an arcade, theatre, pools and plenty of parties in between. Past acts have included Sander van Doon, Big Shaq, Darude, Paul Van Dyk and Hot Dub Time Machine.

With so much to fit in, you’ll not want to head to bed (or have a memory blank).

itstheship.com

MALAYSIA
Deer Cave

Just because Deer Cave was recently stripped of its ‘world’s largest cave’ title (that honour now goes to Hang Son Doon in Vietnam), it doesn’t mean you should automatically cross it off your must-see list. Located in Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak, it remains an incredible natural wonder. At more than two kilometres in length and up to 122 metres in height, the sheer enormity of it is impressive. Not surprisingly, its name, Deer Cave (Gua Rusa in Malaysian), comes from the native deer that would enter the cave for shelter and to lick the salt-bearing rocks.

A trip to the cave requires a three-kilometre ramble along a plank boardwalk that weaves through peat swamp, by limestone outcrops and past a sacred Penan tribe burial cave. Highlights inside include the Garden of Eden, a lush patch of thick vegetation that thrives thanks to a light-filled hole in the cave roof, and an uncanny side-on profile of Abraham Lincoln that’s carved into one of the cave’s skylights. Bring a torch and you can even stay for the mass bat exodus, when more than three million flying mammals leave the cave in search of food.

VANUATU
Blue Cave

Along the northwest limestone coast of Vanuatu’s Tanna Island is the brilliant Blue Cave. A short boat ride will take you to the cave’s small, unsuspecting entry. Once inside you’ll discover the sun’s iridescent glow streaming through a hole in the roof, making the water glow a vibrant turquoise and illuminating the water and rock formations below. It’s all pretty special. If you’re a beginner swimmer, don’t worry – you will be able to get in providing you are able to put your head underwater. If you’re still nervous about having to go under the water, visit during low tide to give yourself the best chance of experiencing the cave.

Once you’ve finished exploring the inside, be sure to head to the cliff platforms outside and jump into the crystalline ocean waters to soak up even more of Vanuatu’s natural beauty.

LAOS
Tad Yuang

Prepare to be impressed by Tad Yuang, a towering 40-metre waterfall that spills out of the Laos jungle in spectacular fashion. More specifically, it’s located on the Bolaven Plateau, which is slowly becoming more accessible to travellers. Local volunteers have worked tirelessly to create safer viewing platforms, and other amenities and stalls continue to pop up nearby.

A rather steep, slippery path winds its way down to the bottom of the falls, but it’s worth manoeuvring so you can cool off in the pool below and bask in the immense power of the surging twin torrents. There’s even a designated picnic area at the top, and quite a few walking tracks that lead deeper into the surrounding rainforest. Our tip? Get there super early or stick around until dusk when the crowds have dispersed, and you’re more likely to have the falls all to yourself.

SAMOA
Togitogiga

When in Samoa, do as the great Samoan warriors of the past used to do and bathe in the crystal clear waters of the Togitogiga Waterfall. While the name might be difficult to say getting there isn’t, and the waterfall is conveniently situated just a few kilometres from Samoa’s first national park, O Le Pupu-Pue.

Overgrown tropical gardens, offering sweet relief from sun, encroach on the deep swimming holes that are fed by multiple cascading falls. The best time to visit is during the wet season, from November to April, when the falls are at capacity and the pools are primed for cannonballs into the blissfully cool waters below. Thanks to a recreation area, changing rooms and toilets, Togitogiga has been known to get busy, but if you can handle a few extra people splashing nearby, there’s really no better place to be on a hot Samoan day.

THAILAND
Elephant dung coffee

It’s no secret coffee is one of the world’s most widely consumed beverages. And considering it seems that every second person nowadays is trying to whip up an iconic and delicious brew (blue algae coffee, anyone?), it’s no surprise some strange concoctions have popped up.

In Thailand, the current craze is elephant dung coffee. A herd of 20 elephants in northern Thailand is responsible for this taste sensation. Along with their normal diet of fruits, veggies and plants, these ellies also consume large quantities of coffee beans. They marinate in the stomachs of these huge creatures before being excreted the next day. The downside, other than knowing your coffee has passed through the bowels of an elephant, is that it’s actually one of the most expensive cups of joe in the whole world.

TAHITI
Fafaru

If you’re wanting to try some of the local cuisine in Tahiti, look no further. Fafaru is a dish ingrained in Polynesian culture, and is simply fish or shrimp that’s  been marinated in fermented seawater. Sounds tasty, right?

Crushed prawns placed clean seawater then left to decompose. Once that’s done the water is strained ready to use as a marinade for fish, usually tuna. The longer it’s left, the stronger the flavour. If you can somehow manage to get past the smell, the fish is said to be deliciously tender. It’s usually served with another Polynesian delicacy known as miti hue, or fermented coconut pulp, creating a well-balanced meal that’s both sweet and salty. We suggest those with weak stomachs might want to steer well clear.

PHILLIPINES
Whale sharks

Away from the chaos of the Philippines’ main dive spots in Oslob are the protected reefs of Tubbataha. With about a hundred hectares of stunning underwater sanctuary to explore, it’s the perfect spot to dive beneath the ocean’s surface and experience the majestic marine world that lies below.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, the sanctuary’s diversity of the marine life is astounding. Perhaps the most incredible creatures you’ll come across are the whale sharks, one of the largest fish species in the ocean. Given their exclusive diet of plankton, these spotted behemoths pose no risk to humans and are more than happy to share their watery home with us. Swimming side by side with these docile critters is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

seadoors-liveaboard.com

TAHITI
Humpback whales

Hanging out in the depths of the warm Tahitian waters are some of the most magnificent sea creatures: mighty humpback whales. These calm beasts can reach up to 16 metres in length and weigh almost 30 metric tons.

Not unlike the whale sharks of the Philippines, the humpbacks survive on a diet of krill and other small fish and are unlikely to harm humans. Their inherently curious nature means it’s not unusual for them to come close to investigate any loitering whale watching boats. Peak season for whale watching is anywhere from June through to October. When out on the water you will be guided by professionally trained divers and swimmers who will ensure that both you and the whales are safe during your trip.

tahiti-private-expeditions.com

INDONESIA
Sequoia

Climb aboard this magnificent ship and sail off into Raja Ampat’s sunset. The 26-metre eco-friendly yacht, named Sequoia after the ancient tree, is a contemporary take on traditional wooden yacht. Custom-made amenities and features welcome guests to this state-of-the-art vessel, with its three spacious bedrooms, each with a private bathroom, a sky deck for movies under the stars, and a gourmet kitchen.

But life isn’t all about what’s on deck. On this private charter, you’ll be able to snorkel, paddle board, tube, kayak, water ski and more.

coraltrianglesafaris.com

SOLOMON ISLANDS
Solomon Islands Discovery Cruise

With eight days aboard the MV Taka, you’ll see more of the Solomon Islands than you ever thought possible. Depart from Honiara and spend the next week surrounded by more culture and history than you could ever imagine. With cultural immersion a key part of your journey, you’ll interact with locals of all ages and backgrounds during village and school visits.

While onboard there’s the opportunity to take a step back in time to the Pacific front of World War II, and explore shipwrecks and other significant sites. It’s not all about education though – there’s plenty of time for relaxation, snorkelling and paddle boarding, among other activities. What’s more, when not tied up with Solomon Island Discovery Cruises’ passengers, the ship is available for private hire. Count us in.

sidcruises.com.au

CAMBODIA
Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse

Built from the ground up by its owners, Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse is a testament to hard work and a love of tasty beer. The desire to spread the delicious beverage to the locals spawned the idea, and now the aromatic bevvies are finished with enticing flavours that make locals and travellers alike say, “Maybe just one more then.”

The success of the brewery spawned two tap rooms and more than 20 restaurants that feature Cerevisia beer on their drinks menu. One of the two taprooms, Botanico Wine and Beer Garden, has cemented its place in the community offering live music, exceptional food and trivia nights, and the chance to knock the top off a couple of froffies.

cerevisiacraftbrewery.com

COOK ISLANDS
Rarotonga Brewery

Rarotonga Brewery in the Cook Islands is locally owned and adored. The goal of this brewery is to create a consistently delicious beer that can be appreciated by locals and visitors alike. And believe us: there’s nothing quite as refreshing on balmy, tropical nights as a crisp, cold lager. You’ll find this tasty drop in restaurants and establishments across the Cook Islands, so it’s never too hard to get your hands on one while you’re over there.

Like many of its compatriots, Rarotonga Brewery aims to be as environmentally minded as possible, using kegs and flagons to avoid products ending up in landfill. If you find yourself on Rarotonga, stop by the brewery and have a look for yourself.

rarotongabrewery.com

MALAYSIA
Tun Mustapha Park

It’s the largest marine protected area in Malaysia and below its glistening turquoise surface, Tun Mustapha Park is home to coral reefs, mangroves, dugongs, sea turtles, sharks and more than 360 species of fish. It took almost 13 years to protect this colourful undersea world, but now, using a mixed approach to satisfy marine conservation, local communities and fishing industries, the aim is to boost biodiversity over the coming decade.

Covering more than a million hectares, the park encompasses more than 50 islands across the Kudat, Pita and Kota Marudu districts, from where travelers can swim, snorkel and dive to get up close and personal with the inhabitants of the deep.

NEW CALEDONIA 
Natural Park of the Coral Sea

Established to protect and ensure the future of New Caledonia’s exceptional aquatic ecosystem, the Natural Park of the Coral Sea is the world’s largest marine park. Covering an astounding 1.3 million square kilometres, the park also encompasses the world’s largest lagoon and second longest barrier reef, and acts as a sanctuary for turtles, whales, sharks, giant clams, sea birds, an array of fish species and the world’s third largest herd of dugongs. The highest level of protection for the world’s last unspoiled reefs – Chesterfield, Bellona, Entrecasteaux, Pétrie and Astrolabe – safeguards 28,000 square kilometres of pristine reef.

Some small eco-tourism groups are able to gain permits to access these reefs. This watery wonderland is best explored at sea level, so to truly get an idea of the park’s rich diversity, make sure you get wet.

LAOS
Beerlao

Bintang isn’t the only beer in town when it comes to Southeast Asia’s amber goodness. Beerlao, produced at a local brewery since 1973, is a popular thirst quencer for visitors to the region.

This beer is created using locally sourced ingredients like jasmine rice, with imported malt, hops and yeast from France, Belgium and Germany. It’s crafted by Lao Brewery, a company that prides itself on being culturally and environmentally minded with sustainability and social responsibility at the top of its priority list. So when you knock back a cold Beerlao, you can do so virtually guilt free. Well, that’s what we’re telling ourselves, anyway.

beerlao.la

SOLOMON ISLANDS
Solbrew

When it comes to this island nation’s most popular drop, there’s no beating Solbrew. The Honiara brewery was established in 1993 and designed the silver and gold cans and green bottles to pay homage to the Solomons’ history and spirit. There’s nothing more refreshing in the island heat and never looks out of place in the hands of anyone across the South Pacific. Bottoms up.

LAOS
Rosewood Luang Prabang Hilltop Tents

Embedded into the lush jungle hillside of Luang Prabang, Rosewood’s Hilltop Tents offer modest luxury. Designed to incorporate both the Laos local culture and the strong French colonial influence through the architecture and use of textures, colours and fabrics, the six 75-square-metre tents bring indulgence and culture together in a stunning display.

Each tent has its own king-size bed, bathtub and plush day bed, plus a private deck where you can sit back, relax and listen to the sounds of the jungle. Take your relaxation one step further with a visit to the spa and enjoy one of the traditional Lao therapies, or take a dip in the lavish pool while watching the natural waterfall cascade right next to you.

rosewoodhotels.com

COOK ISLANDS
Ikurangi Eco Retreat

A passion to create a luxurious yet environmentally sustainable option for
travellers has resulted in Ikurangi Eco Retreat, the first purpose-built eco
accommodation in the Cook Islands. Overlooking the dramatic mountains
of Rarotonga, four safari tents combine luxe finishes with sustainably sourced materials to create one idyllic and eco-friendly package.

Composting toilets, biodegradable toiletries and free bicycles are all part of the Ikurangi way. Creature comforts aren’t sacrificed – they’re simply presented in a stylish, unpretentious way. Each tent includes a private outdoor shower, large king-size bed, fully screened windows, natural soap and lotion, and electricity points for charging all your gadgets. From here, you can explore the serene natural beauty of Rarotonga, and enjoy the island’s adrenaline-inducing adventures, nature, food, culture and pampering. You’ll be diving into your natural surrounds in no time.

ikurangi.com

THAILAND
Koh Khod

On the eastern outskirts of the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Kood is a so-far unspoiled nirvana. The island has it all for visitors wanting a fully immersive experience: beaches, jungles, waterfalls and luxury resorts. As the fourth largest island in Thailand, with a population of about 2,000, you’ll find yourself fully immersed in the culture and lifestyle from the moment you step foot on the beach.

The best way to explore the sandy shores – the entire western edge of the island is an expanse of pristine beaches – is on a boat. The eastern side of the island is largely undeveloped and, in some areas, an inaccessible mass of jungle. Spend your days hiking, swimming, relaxing and basking in the absolute peace and tranquillity on this almost undiscovered paradise.

TUVALA
Tuvalu

Located halfway between Australia and Hawaii, Tuvalu is a tiny tropical speck in the Pacific. Comprised of just nine islands – six are actually deemed coral atolls – and with a population of just 11,000 people, it’s one of the world’s smallest countries. Devoid of tour guides, cruise ships and organised activities, it’s definitely no tourist mecca like its neighbours Fiji and Vanuatu, but that’s where its charm lies.

You’ll have palm tree-fringed beaches to yourself and reefs bursting with colour and sea life to explore at your leisure. The friendly locals are more than willing to share their knowledge and cultural traditions in the form of dance, basket weaving and woodcarving. But don’t delay your trip to Tuvalu – with rising sea levels threatening to completely engulf the low-lying nation, there’s no telling when climate change will wipe this isolated South Pacific paradise off the map.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Sepik Spirit

Step aboard the Sepik Spirit for a voyage into the depths of Papua New Guinea’s waterways. This purpose-built craft, which has been designed to glide through rivers and tributaries with ease, follows a route that includes the Karawari, Sepik and Krosmeri rivers.

The villages that line these riverbanks are rarely visited by foreigners, and when the Sepik Spirit docks at different settlements, tourists are showered with warm welcomes and invitations to visit spirit houses, learn about rituals or purchase tribal art. Photo opportunities abound around every bend, so have your camera at the ready to capture the dense forests lining the Karawari River or the sun setting over the wide expanse of the Blackwater Lakes.

pngtours.com

THAILAND
Gypsy

Journey down the famed Mekong River on a vessel unlike any other. Gypsy is a lavishly appointed 41-metre, two-cabin rig that will transport you past charming villages in total comfort. Travel from Luang Prabang through to Thailand’s Golden Triangle on a four-night trip, or do the reverse and spend two nights travelling from Thailand to Laos.

This ultra-exclusive private cruise is tailored to accommodate just four passengers, which means your every wish and desire is met. Wood and thatched features  give the boat a traditional feel, but modern amenities and an on-board chef whipping up first-class fare means there’s no chance of mistaking this boat for just another typical river cruiser. If there’s a better way to explore the Mekong, we’d like to hear about it.

mekongkingdoms.com

INDONESIA
Bawah Reserve

Deep in the Anambas archipelago is Bawah Reserve. A series of six secluded private islands, this resort, with its 35 luxury suites boasting panoramic views of the ocean, is one for the ages.

Accommodation options range from overwater bungalows to garden and deluxe beach suites, so you’ll be spoiled for choice. If you worry about being bored spending days lying on the beach, think again. You’ll have access to the Aura Spa and Wellness Centre, plus there’s hiking, snorkelling, stand-up paddle boarding and stargazing, plus the beach cinema and swimming pools, to enjoy. There’s even a chance to sail off into the sunset on an island cruise.

bawahreserve.com

TAHITI
Brando Island

The French Polynesian island of Tetiaroa, also known as Brando Island, was once described by its namesake as, “beautiful beyond my capacity to describe”. Who are we to argue with Marlon Brando?

The Brando is next-level luxury – think transfers on a private plane, 35 exclusive villas, award-winning cuisine and white-sand beaches frequented by sea turtles, manta rays and exotic birds. While it may seem tempting to while the lazy days away by the pool, moving only when required to reach for a cocktail or apply another layer of sunscreen, activities at The Brando are endless. Test out your snorkelling skills, splash out on a kayak, learn how to scuba dive or pedal off on a bike. But with a mission to foster enriching travel experiences, support Polynesian culture and traditions, and protect and sustain the island’s precious natural environment, you can relax in peace knowing The Brando is doing its bit to best preserve this fragile piece of the South Pacific.

thebrando.com

PHILLIPINES
Kawasan Falls

Your fitness will be tested on this Cebu canyoning expedition as you wander along a cliff’s edge and hike down to expansive caverns for an adrenaline-pumping experience. Starting in Kanlaob River you’ll walk, jump, swim, climb and abseil your way toward Kawasan Falls, passing ravines, rocky chasms and tropical jungles. While the stunning surrounding scenery may appear peaceful this experience is anything but, although it’ll all be worth it once you arrive at the stunning blue waters of Kawasan Falls.

So strap on the life vest and helmet and try not to overthink things as you jump right into anadventure that will push you to your limits.

islandtrektours.com

VANUATU
Millennium Cave

This challenging trek – a full-day adventure to Millennium Cave – will test you both physically and mentally. The hike to the cave weaves along jungle paths then there’s the opportunity to clamber over rocks and cliffs before canyoning into waters at the base of the cave.

It may be exhausting, but the feeling of accomplishment will far outweigh any muscle aches. Thankfully, though, between the rushing waterfalls, the flowing river and the monstrous size of the cave, the awesome scenery will have you completely forgetting just how tough you might find the trip.

millenniumcavetour.weebly.com

THAILAND
Exotic Fishing

Freshwater fishing in Thailand has been a way of life for centuries, and if you journey to Phang Nga you can try your hand at catching a monster fish for yourself. With an exotic range of creatures lurking in these waters, you can never be sure just what will be at the end of your line. Several of the species below the surface weigh more than 50 kilograms, so be sure you’ve got your muscles ready.

Exotic Fishing Thailand offers half- and full-day fishing packages, so you can tailor the activity to suit yourself. Be sure you bring a camera because you’ll want evidence of these beasts to show people back home – this is catch-and-release fishing only.

exoticfishingthailand.com

NEW CALEDONIA
Traditional fishing 

Traditional fishing practices are alive and well in this small French territory. It’s not just a way to feed the family, either – it’s also considered a social event that can bring the whole community together.

Traditional fishing tours are available in Noumea, depending on tides and weather conditions. On-foot fishing is a great option for the kids, and might even nab you some tasty clams. If the wind isn’t too strong, try your hand at parachute net fishing, a true art. You’ll also learn how to spot or attract fish. Who knows? You may even master throwing the net so it lands in a perfect circle in the water. Guess that’s dinner sorted.

oleti-tours.com

LAOS
The Gibbon Experience 

If you’ve always dreamed of swinging through the trees, spending the night high up in the forest canopy and making friends with monkeys, this is your chance to turn those Tarzan fantasies into a reality.

The Gibbon Experience in Nam Kan National Park connects some of the world’s highest treehouses via a maze of ziplines. Once settled in your treetop retreat, you might even get the chance to meet with the local gibbon families. It’s a pretty basic set-up, but when you’re more than 30 metres above the forest floor and waking up to the roaring sounds of the jungle, you’ll forget about that. Besides, it wouldn’t be the complete Tarzan experience if you had a butler on call, now would it?

gibbonexperience.org

VANUATU
La Maison du Banian

Just 10 kilometres out of Vanuatu’s capital of Port Vila is La Maison du Banian. Constructed in the branches of a banyan tree, this simple, thatched treehouse blends beautifully into its surroundings, so you’ll feel connected with the natural world.

And even though it’s environmentally friendly, you don’t have to go without creature comforts. Solar power and kerosene lamps keep the lights on, and an open bamboo bathroom is located nearby. A fireplace provides warmth on chilly nights, and a vegetable and fruit garden means you won’t go hungry. This accommodation will see you immersing yourself in nature, recharging and experiencing simplicity at its finest.

lamaisondubanian.com

MALAYSIA
Kapas Island

Finding unspoiled beaches is becoming harder as more tourists flock to all corners of the globe. That’s not to say uncrowded stretches of coast are impossible to find. Take Kapas Island as an example. This tiny speck in the ocean, just two kilometres in length, can be found just 15 minutes from Marang, off the east coast of Malaysia. The cerulean waters are just begging for a day of paddling in a hired kayak, or there are more than enough shady spots to hang your hammock and settle in with a good book. What makes Kapas Island even better, though, is its diversity.

Sure, we love a solid relaxation sesh, but we dig the option to dive and snorkel through reefs or trek through jungles even more, and that’s all possible here. There are no five-star resorts, bustling restaurants, internet connection or even ATMs, but that’s even more reason to love it. We’re all about minimalism when the right location calls for it, and this is one island we’d happily get shipwrecked on.

VANUATU
Port Olry

To classify as one of the best hidden beaches in the South Pacific, there’s a few things most visitors would expect to see. Glistening white beaches with barely a footprint to be seen? Absolutely. Azure waters, clear enough to see to the bottom? That’s a given. Maybe a rustic beach shack – walking distance to the beach, of course – serving seafood fresh from the ocean? Sure, you gotta eat. That just about sums about Port Olry, a secret oasis on the island of Espiritu Santo.

It has somehow managed to stay hidden from the hordes of tourists and cruise-shippers who frequent Vanuatu in search of their own slice of tropical paradise, and has instead adopted an infectious laid-back charm that is irresistible. The pristine natural landscape, complete with a thriving sea turtle population, doesn’t hurt either. Hurry, because the wonders of Port Olry won’t stay confidential for long.

MALAYSIA
Moutt Kinabalu

Via ferrata, for the uninitiated, means iron road in Italian, and is used to describe a mountain route equipped with rungs, rails, fixed ladders and cables. At 3,776 metres above sea level, Low’s Peak Circuit and Walk the Torq trails on Mount Kinabalu in Sabah are, respectively, Asia’s highest and first via ferrata.

No prior climbing experience is needed to tackle the mountain when you head off with Mountain Torq – a skilled guide leads the way along the well-equipped routes. The climb takes more than four hours to complete, however, so a decent level of fitness is required, but there are plenty of opportunities along the way to rest and admire the vista. When you’re traversing swinging planks and balancing on tightrope walks, the adrenaline kicks in and you won’t even notice those burning muscles.

mountaintorq.com

TONGA
Fangatave Beach

It may be a relative newcomer on the scene, but Tonga is slowly and steadily garnering attention from curious climbers. The majority of the climbing takes place on the untouched limestone cliffs of the King’s estate at Fangatave Beach, on the northeastern side of the island of ‘Eua.

You’ll need to register beforehand to gain access to the estate and climbing areas, and bring all your own gear, but once that’s sorted 25 pitches await, ranging from grade 17 to 24. To protect the pristine landscape and guarantee the future of climbing tourism, volunteers from Kaka Maka Group are working with Tongan locals to ensure the burgeoning outdoor venture is developed responsibly and sustainable. With 50 more routes in development, our advice is to book those flights to Tonga asap and get in before the crowds start assembling.

tonganrock.org

Place names in York aren’t just quirky, they’re clues to the city’s history, which entails more violence and a bigger body count than a Game of Thrones box set. The Gate in Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate, for example, comes from the Norse word gata, meaning street, and this was once the site of the city’s whipping post.

York has been a powerhouse of northern England for nearly two millennia. The Romans founded the city in 71 CE, in the strategically sensible spot where the River Foss joins the River Ouse, granting them a natural defensive barrier on several sides.

Times were tough and rough back then, though, and to further shield themselves from the lethal locals, the occupiers built walls around the city, which steadily grew in importance. Two Roman emperors died in York, and one – Constantine the Great, who founded Constantinople and invented Christmas – was hailed as emperor here.

By the fourth century, however, things weren’t looking so sweet for the swords and sandals brigade in Britain. Having struggled to keep the barbarians at bay, the Italians eventually scuttled home to Rome, where the very foundations of their once mighty empire were crumbling.

Amid the chaos and carnage that rushed into the vacuum they left behind, Anglo-Saxons moved in and a Middle Eastern cult called Christianity managed to take hold, with York as its epicentre. Churches began sprouting up across the city, one of them ultimately evolving into the mighty York Minster, which still towers over inhabitants of the modern city like a gorgeous Gothic guilt complex.

Viking combatants. Click to view gallery

The church grew wealthy, which attracted a new breed of invader from across the North Sea. Vikings began arriving in 793 to plunder monasteries, pocket gold, steal men, women and children to sell as slaves, and generally create merry hell all over the British Isles.

Viking warriors were the Dark Ages’ most formidable fighting force, with fast ships, superior weapons and a ruthless approach to battle. Their arrival was like a tsunami of terror that hit the coast and washed right across the country.

Led by men with names like Sigurd Snake-in-the-Eye, Ivar the Boneless, Halfdan Ragnarsson, Sweyn Forkbeard and Eric Bloodaxe, these flaxen-haired hard nuts soon controlled most of England. York – or Jórvík as they called it – was their main base.

It didn’t always go the Viking’s way. In 954, Eric Bloodaxe was driven from York and killed, and the city was reclaimed by the Anglo-Saxons. The Vikings, however, soon bounced back, setting the scene for an almighty dust-up that took place exactly 1000 years ago. It forms the theme for this year’s festival. The Battle of Assandun was fought between Danish King Canute – aka Cnut the Great – and England’s King Edmund Ironside in 1016.

As the weekend gets going, scenes in pubs across York’s city centre become surreal. Young women on hens’ nights, wearing skirts that barely pass their waists, mingle with rugged old Vikings sporting beards to their knees. In fact, between hipsters on bucks’ parties and men dressed as Vikings, I’m virtually the only beardless bloke in town, and I’m starting to feel slightly self-conscious.

Predictably, this only gets worse during Saturday’s best beard contest, which draws a huge crowd of hirsute heroes and hairy hangers-on to the City Camp in Parliament Street. Shamed by my lack of face foliage, I soon decamp to the toughest Viking competition, the Brawl in the Guildhall, which is a little like American wrestling meets World’s Strongest Man with some axes thrown in for good measure.

Alongside a boisterous crowd, I watch as four wannabe warriors take on a series of brawn-based challenges, such as running around with logs on their shoulders, before squaring up for various bouts of fighting. Things get particularly interesting when one of the combatants – the local favourite – lets out a shriek of pain as his opponent accidentally axes him in the face. Real blood flows, but fortunately it’s only a flesh wound, and his beard remains unscathed. The crowd laps it up, and the homegrown hero is ultimately declared the winner.

In the sober light of day, I opt to leave my newly acquired weapon back at the hotel, but the city is in full Viking mode now, and there are wenches and warriors everywhere. Some look less berserker and more Bill Bailey – I suspect there’s quite a few IT specialists here – but plenty make a decent stab at coming across as the real deal.

There’s also a smattering of genuine Viking blood among the marauding hordes. Travellers are drawn to this unique and extraordinary spectacle from all over the planet, including Australia, but there’s a considerable contingent of Scandinavians. During the weekend I meet Danes, Swedes, Norwegians and an Icelander, all delighted their culture is being celebrated and commemorated so uproariously by the descendants of the very people whose arses they whipped a thousand years ago.

It’s about to kick off again. During the day, the rival forces, all dressed in full battle garb, amass around the ankles of York Minster. There’s much sabre rattling and rabble rousing as the two mock armies march through the centre of the city. The streets are lined with onlookers, some clutching swords, others cuddling beers. There’s a strange mix of tension, expectation and celebration in the air – like the atmosphere at a derby day football match. But this is just the dress rehearsal.

When the sun dips, the two armies face each other again – in a theatre of war in front of York’s historic Clifford’s Tower, built by William the Conqueror (himself a descendant of Vikings) a few years after the Battle of Assandun.

This time things are more serious. In the real bloody battle, Canute’s Vikings were victorious over Edmund’s Englishmen, but during these dramatic re-enactments things can go either way. Actual fatalities are discouraged, but the rules state that if you are walloped by a weapon you have to lay down dead – it’s like a medieval version of paintball.

Twice the clans clash, taking a victory apiece under a sky regularly ripped apart by fireworks, but in the final action the Danes come out on top and history repeats itself. England’s destiny is decided in favour of the invaders again. The slain return to life and everyone heads off to wet their beards with beer – friends again until next year.

The so-called ‘28 bends’ is a seemingly neverending steep ascent destined to turn anybody’s calves and thighs to jelly. After heavy rainfall, the path can be particularly dangerous and a number of trekkers have died. Despite the hazards, almost everybody who comes to visit the nearby popular holiday destination of Lijiang wants to see this spectacular gorge.

As the Chinese economy continues its unprecedented growth, generating an emerging affluent class, the numbers of domestic Chinese tourists visiting places like Lijiang increases astronomically each year. To meet this demand, the Yunnan government blasted a road along the bottom of the gorge that will eventually run from Qiaotou to Daju, some 30 kilometres away. The road offers close-up views of the river and dramatic rapids where the gorge narrows so considerably that a fable has it that a tiger once leapt across it to avoid a hunter. Buses now use the road to whisk tour groups quickly in and out of the gorge enabling those unfit for or uninterested in the trek to take their ‘I’ve been there’ snapshots.

For many Chinese the idea of independent adventure travel remains alien. Most prefer in-and-out organised tours, typically following a guide who holds a group-identifying flag aloft. The accessible Low Road to the gorge offers a very different experience to the demanding High Road path and draws a different crowd. Trekkers on the ‘High Road’ are likely to be foreign, preferring the freedom of this route. Occasionally greeted by magnificent cascading waterfalls and steep drops, the path hugs tight as it twists and turns along the mountain face. Many trekkers opt for the best of both worlds. They take the High Road from Qiaotou and enjoy the stunning views and meet the locals en-route and then return along the Low Road for a closer glimpse of the Yangtze.

Click to view gallery

Back in Qiaotou, Margo is operating the Gorged Tiger Cafe, popular with travellers returning or about to embark on the gorge trek. Margo and her husband Sean, who has also been guiding Intrepid Travel groups through the gorge for years, are quite vocal in their opposition to developments in the gorge. At present, High Road and Low Road gorge visitors can be unaware of each other’s existence. According to Sean, this peaceful co-existence has been under threat for some time. When works on the Low Road were in progress, occasional explosions echoed through the gorge and punctuated the serenity of the valley.

In China, tourism often equates with development and Sean says the company managing the gorge has plans to increase accessibility. These include a resort, complete with golf course, and a cable car running through the gorge. Rumours that the gorge is to be dammed are also rife. Margo says officials from Yunnan State Power have made a number of visits to the gorge and the gorge could be dammed as early as 2008. Sean argues there should be only one future – the gorge’s unique beauty should be preserved. “Keep the gorge traditional,” he says. “More ecology tourism, bring tourist economy to countryside. The world has few places as good as the gorge.”

Looking up, I spy the imposing 18,000-foot Dragon Snow and Jade Snow Mountains. Looking down, it’s a long drop to a notorious 17-kilometre stretch of China’s Mother River, its raging waters at this section noted as “too dangerous for rafting”. Here, what is locally known as the Jinsha-Jiang, the River of Golden Sand, has sliced like an ancient sword through the towering mountains of Yunnan Province to form what is known in the west as Tiger Leaping Gorge.

I strap on my boots and set off to tackle the route that takes walkers through what is said to be the deepest river-gorge on the surface of the planet. I watch on as goats clamber down barely-there tracks, their hooves causing an avalanche of stones to cascade into the valley, and I wonder if they should rename the area Clumsy Goat-Leaping Gorge.

Being a city girl, I hate walking at the best of times and in the rain I can’t think of anything worse. I repeat travellers’ clichés like mantras as I start clambering over rocks: ‘Suffering is character building’; ‘Today’s discomfort is tomorrow’s dinner table anecdote’. Neither alleviate any discomfort as I slip and slide over rocks and jump across sheer drops.

Tiger Leaping Gorge is a challenge for experienced walkers. Most maps are vague and paths often fork off into five or so options. Trekking its length requires a lot of scouting and it’s easy to become lost. Even the bright yellow arrows delineating the path to the middle-mark village of Walnut Grove are hit and miss, as in some places they vanish altogether.

At one such intersection I decide to follow the path into Ben-di One Village as marked on my hand-drawn map. When the locals fail to understand my (very) broken Chinese, I’m at a loss. Showing them my phrase book simply makes them laugh and after they rotate it in every direction I realise that most of them cannot read. Smiling and laughing they point to a path, and so on I walk. After half an hour of passing women returning from the fields with baskets full of bamboo, I begin to worry. Not a yellow arrow in sight and I seem to be returning in the general direction of Qiaotou, the town where I began.

Struck with panic, I decide to backtrack and explore other paths that passed by the village. Within minutes of leaving the settlement I find a marker under an overgrown bush, a splodge of vibrant yellow paint splashed across the craggy old boulder pointing to the right-hand path. Further along there are more distinctive arrows, which are easier to follow. After another half hour, the views of the aquamarine gorge surpass superlatives in equal but opposite measure to the path that disintegrates altogether in places. I stop to catch my breath and take some rain-swept photographs before beginning the two-hour ascent to the high point.

From here, the trek feels more like the beginning of a Bond movie with knife-edge bends and sheer drops into the abyss. It’s 3,500 feet down into the rocky gorge – no-one would survive the fall. The wind blows and a waterfall cascades across the main path. After seven hours of walking, every bone in my body aches but there is no going back. The sun comes out just as my spirits fade to nothing, the light rallying my weary body. I am facing the hardest section yet with another descent that has my knees bending at the strangest angles. When the yellow arrows suddenly turn into adverts for guesthouses, I’m grateful for the respite.

The book – Manga Reva, The Forgotten Islands – was written in the 1920s by an artist called Robert Lee Eskridge. It’s a firsthand account of the American’s eight-month stay on French Polynesia’s outlying Gambier Islands, the place I’m now headed. Although written almost 100 years ago, it’s all I have to give me a sense of the islands I’m about to arrive at. Modern-day guidebooks don’t offer much, if any information on this part of the world.

The small plane begins its descent, circling the coral circumference of the biggest lagoon I’ve ever seen. As it banks left, I catch sight of Mangareva stretched out in the pristine blueness like a prostrate man enjoying a bath. It’s a superb sight, full of promise for adventure.

It’s a more temperate landscape than I was expecting – like the tropics meets Tasmania. While Tahiti and her sister islands in the north have been mythologised for centuries for their hot and uninhibited sexiness, I get the sense that the Gambier Islands are like Tahiti’s distant cousins twice removed: more prudish and pious, but still perfectly pretty.

The fruit of Père Laval’s mad ambition. Click to view gallery

“Welcome to our paradise!” says a local lady in a heavy French accent as I get off the shuttle boat from the airport. She lobs a massive necklace of sweet-smelling flowers around my neck and introduces herself as Bianca, my host and one half of Bianca & Benoît, the family-run pension I’m staying at on Mangareva. We pile into her pick-up and head for the pension.

The drive, if done in one hit, should take about three to four minutes from the jetty. But with Bianca slowing down and waving at every man, woman, child and chicken we pass, it takes closer to 20.

“All Mangarevan people wave for saying ‘ello,” she says. “If no wave, they are tourist or no ‘ave education.”

Slabs of fish act as payment on Mangareva. Click to view gallery

As we pass through the main village, Rikitea, Bianca tells me there are about 1,000 people living on the island. There’s no crime and most of the people are “always ‘appy”. In town, in the shadow of the throne-like Mount Duff, everything is much more tropical and colourful than it looked from the plane. Lively green gardens with bright hibiscus and healthy fruit trees embellish the plain brick houses. Kids play in the sun. Adults gossip in the shade of breadfruit palms. There are only a couple of cars on the road and a few scooters run about the main street.

Along the way we pass European style stone buildings and a monstrous cathedral – big enough to fit every Mangarevan and more inside. They look as out of place in this small village as coconut palms in the Pyrenees.

At the pension I find Bianca’s husband, Benoît, and a few of his fishing pals hacking into the day’s catch of 13 massive wahoo fish. The tattooed workmen doing renovations at the pension join in by slicing off hefty chunks, a kilo or more each, to take as a weekly wage bonus.

Bianca, a first-rate eater by the looks of her, also gets involved, pulling raw flesh from the bone and munching it down with an unidentified brown sauce. Soon there’s very little left of the ute-load of 50-kilogram fish. When I ask Benoît if he makes a tidy profit selling the fish to others in town he looks at me like I’ve just farted in his face.

“Not for selling,” he says. “Only for giving, for my friends and for the people.”

I note my sinful, capitalist ways and get back to eating raw wahoo and drinking beer while the sun goes down.

Pearl farmers at work. Click to view gallery

Sin is a topical subject on Mangareva, I learn as I read in my cute little bungalow that night. This place was once the cradle of Catholicism in Polynesia and the idyllic Truman Show vibe of today hasn’t always existed here.

The reason these far-off islands hold more than 100 stone buildings – churches, presbyteries, convents, schools, weaving workshops, bakers’ ovens and watch towers, is that they were once ruled by a nutty French missionary, Père Laval, who was hell-bent on constructing things in order to please God.

In his book, Eskridge explains that Laval made the pilgrimage to the “unheeding cannibals” of the Forgotten Islands to save souls for the church. But it soon became apparent that he was, as Eskridge put it, “trying to slip a Catholic soul into a Polynesian body with the shoehorn of fanaticism”. It was disastrous from the moment he sailed into the lagoon.

In a short time, through trickery and cunning, Laval convinced the joyful pagan population that the word of Jesus Christ was the law. Through the hard labour forced upon them to build his egomaniac empire, their spirits were wrecked and they began to die. The population, once 5,000 strong and peaceful (if we overlook that a human was occasionally on the menu, of course), fast disappeared, never to return.

The next morning, I’m keen to explore. Because there are no hotels or tour companies on the island, Benoît and Bianca operate their own outings and activities for guests. With Benoît as a guide, and a few of his family members and some French tourists in tow, we head out for a full-day boat tour of the lagoon and the other Gambier Islands.

Although the expression ‘middle-of-nowhere’ might be insulting to those who call ‘nowhere’ home, it’s a phrase that keeps coming to mind when we first get out on the water among the Gambier Islands. This archipelago doesn’t even earn a dot on many world maps. Isolation is an understatement.

On board the boat, Benoît takes us to discover a good sample of all that the lagoon holds. Enveloped in the 90-kilometre reef are 10 volcanic islands and 25 sandy islets. Most of the islands are now uninhabited or only have a few families on them.

Laval’s reach extended beyond just Mangareva. But for all of his despotic ways, the man’s taste and location scouting skills are beyond reproach. Granted, saying that an archipelago in French Polynesia is beautiful is to state the proverbial obvious, but this place is a notch above all else. Eskridge, a man prone to understatement, is forever gushing about the colours and the magnificence of the lagoon.

“Blue, emerald, mauve and violet interplayed beneath the arched blue of the austral skies…

Such blue and cerulean, emerald and emeraud, never existed anywhere outside the South Seas.”

Throughout the day, Benoît ensures that we’re treated to a good mix of culture, nature, history, action, food and relaxation. We find grand churches on islands whose population probably isn’t more than 20. Being a Sunday, we come across one with a service underway. Thirty or so pairs of thongs are plonked at the arched door. Rich vocal harmonies drift out the stained-glass windows and float down a broad avenue of coconut palms and across the still lagoon. Inside, I take a pew and watch the thickset men and women sing and clap for the lord above. For longer than a moment, I forget my own aversion to Catholicism and lose myself in the warm sounds of the singers.

Further into the lagoon, Benoît takes us to Akamaru Island. The colour of the water here is worthy of every superlative in the book.

“Blue like Bora Bora, no?” says Benoît.

For him, this is just another day at the office. For me, I’ve just arrived at a place that, in an instant, makes me question why I live in a city and wonder what I can sell to live here forever. Yes, it’s blue like Bora Bora, but there’s nobody about. Not one bug-eyed French couple flicking their Gauloises ciggie butts into the water from their five-grand-a-night overwater bungalows.

Lunch, a seafood barbeque and banquet, is eaten on a long islet at the edge of the lagoon. We eat, swim, snorkel and sleep in the sand.

We spend the afternoon island hopping, walking and learning (in very broken English) the history of these places. At the end of the day, I let Benoît know it’s one of the best day trips I’ve ever done.

Nights back at the pension quickly slip into their own little routine. There’s reading on the deck of my bungalow, watching for shooting stars in the boundless Austral sky, eating with Benoît and Bianca and the rest of the family and sleeping at an early hour.

In the early mornings, I amble around the island exploring the haunted ruins of Laval’s mad ambition. The whispering ghosts, who Eskridge frequently met with in the 1920s, are always on my mind. Every noise makes me jump. A chicken scratching in the scrub near an abandoned church I’m in has me running out the door.

Each day brings something new. I hike with the French tourists to the top of Mangareva’s highest point, Mount Duff, to find a most impressive vista. We also visit an overwater pearl farm, producing world-class Mangarevan black pearls. We eat baguettes in the village and swim and snorkel in the lagoon.

The idyllic simplicity and lack of rush here is contagious. It seems unbelievable that I have this place mostly to myself. I am shocked when Bianca tells me I am the first Australian she has ever hosted in all her years at one of only a few pensions on Mangareva.

Every journey has its most memorable moment. On Mangareva, it comes in the late afternoon as the sun prepares to slump behind Mount Duff and it turns all it touches to a radiant gold. I’m out in the lagoon on a surf ski, drifting and watching the world around me while in a happy daze. Kids snorkel and spear for fish. Pearl farmers relax and laugh on the verandahs of their overwater offices after the day’s work. White birds, like long-tailed doves, glide across the reddening sky in pairs.

Back on shore, people walk to their houses after whatever it is they’ve been doing to fill their days – no doubt they wave and chat and laugh as they go. There is magic threaded through every molecule in this place. As I float there in a lagoon on the edge of the earth, I can’t help but grin like a moron. This is the soul of Polynesia. Everything is exactly as it ought to be.

Of course, the valley wouldn’t have remained unknown if it weren’t also remote. From the regional hub of Puerto Varas we’d driven for hours through farmland towards the Reloncaví Estuary, the first finger of a fjord system that runs all the way to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Leaving bitumen behind, we wound around forested mountains that disappeared into the clouds and through small rainswept settlements. The gravel terminated at a great body of water, Lago Tagua Tagua, where a few forlorn vehicles waited for the car ferry to take them to the continuation of the road south.

A 10-minute boat ride from the dock brought me to my accommodation on the shore of the lake directly opposite the entrance to Parque Tagua Tagua. Mítico Puelo Lodge is a fabulous wooden building in the style of an Alaskan fishing lodge, constructed in 1989 by a rich American fly-fishing enthusiast. Back then there were neither roads nor ferries and all guests were flown in by helicopter. Yet despite hosting high-profile Republican Party politicians and prestigious clients such as Bob Dylan and Robert Redford, the lodge only operated for three years.

“The owner’s son-in-law was in charge of operating the lodge, but imagine a young man from North America who likes to party, has a few million dollars in his pocket and his family very far away,” says Rodrigo Condeza, the current manager. “That combination was kind of bad. Two helicopters crashed, one of the boats capsized and one of the aeroplanes went into the lake. Here in Patagonia, unlike Alaska, it is really windy and you have to know how to fly among these mountains. I think they didn’t have this kind of experience.”

The lodge is now Chilean owned and in its third full season as Mítico Puelo. “This is a refuge,” explains Rodrigo. “It is not fancy, but simple and practical. Our focus is outside. For us the luxury is in the forest, the trees, the mountains and the water. Clients must not think this is a hotel or resort and stay inside the whole time. That is not the idea.”

While there are plenty of outdoor activities offered around the lake, including fly fishing, mountain biking and kayaking, I’m here strictly for the hiking. My guide is Mauricio, a softly spoken local guy who has been working here for three years and obviously loves taking clients into Parque Tagua Tagua. A short boat ride across the lake takes us to the pounding waterfall, beyond which the valley zigzags steeply up through the forest and into the mountains, stern and craggy behind a veil of cloud.

When the boat has dropped us on bare rock, just out of the spray of the falls, Mauricio leads me up a steep but short path to the ranger station where everyone must register their trip. According to the records, the park had just 843 visitors in 2015.

The single walking track runs 10 kilometres up to the head of the valley, not counting a few side-trips to see waterfalls, where we’ll be staying overnight in a purpose-built hut furnished with bunks and a wood-burning stove. While Mauricio carries a sizeable rucksack with all our food, I require only a light daypack.

Behind the ranger station is an area of fruit trees planted by a Mapuche family who lived here 90 years ago. Grapes, apples and citrus fruit lie on the ground around a tumbledown wooden shack, still standing but choked with weeds and brambles. Leaving this last trace of habitation behind, we work our way slowly and steadily, along tracks and over basic, well-made bridges, through the evergreen Valdivian rainforest that dominates the lower half of the valley. Two days of much-needed rain have left the park as lush as a cloud forest – an explosion of ferns, mosses and lichens – and the gushing Rio Tagua Tagua is startlingly clear. “Breathe deeply,” reads a sign in Spanish at the side 
of the track. “You are entering a pristine area.”

There is plenty of wildlife living in the valley, from numerous species of bird and frog to big-ticket mammals like the puma and the southern pudú, the world’s smallest deer. Sadly, we aren’t lucky enough to spot either of these, although the only other hikers we encounter, a couple on their way back to the lodge, claim to have seen a puma footprint in the mud. The most exciting fauna we spy are chucao, small orange-breasted birds that scratch around in the dirt like chickens looking for insects to eat. Mauricio knows his stuff though, frequently pointing out small leaves and berries with scarcely believable enthusiasm. “This is one of my favourite plants,” he whispers. “Look at the way the leaves spread. And this one, this is super interesting. It is a member of the tomato family!”

Hiking through Valdivian rainforest. Click to view gallery

After about three-and-a-half hours we reach the first of the two cabins in the park, Refugio Alerces, which overlooks a small lake complete with spectacular drowned forest. It’s a perfect place for lunch, although it soon gets chilly and we pull on our insulated jackets, Mauricio taking in added warmth from his ever-present gourd of yerba mate, the traditional hot drink of half of South America. “Most hikers come only to Refugio Alerces,” he tells me as he tidies up the hut, clearly pleased that we will be going further today. It is obvious he cares for this place, which isn’t entirely surprising since he spent three months here last year as the summer caretaker.

It’s a beautiful spot, but sees little sun and I’m happy to get going again. Just above the hut the foliage changes abruptly to Andean Patagonian forest, indicated by the presence of larch and beech trees, known in Spanish as alerce and coihue respectively. Refugio Quetrus is another couple of hours’ walk uphill. Named for a pair of steamer ducks, or quetrus, that nest on the lake there, it may lack the eerie, semi-submerged trees of Refugio Alerces but its panoramic backdrop of the cirque at the head of the valley is no less spectacular. The granite cliffs have hidden the afternoon sun, but there is still plenty of time to admire the view and explore the network of paths around the lake, spotting birdlife as we walk.

Refugio Quetrus is, shall we say, rustic. Alerce trees provide strong, waterproof timber that makes excellent building material, and the two-storey shelter is solid yet bleak in its austerity. Books and games provide homely touches and no doubt a larger group would bring the hut to life. As the sun drops so does the temperature. Mauricio expertly coaxes the stove to life and we huddle around it watching our breath dissipate. Dinner is delicious roast pork and fried potatoes pre-prepared by the chef at the lodge. The fact there is just the two of us is most appreciated at bedtime when we pile up all the foam mattresses to make comfy nests.

Rodrigo has grand plans for Parque Tagua Tagua, currently in the fifth of a 25-year concession from the government. “We manage the conservation and tourism for now, but we are working to protect the land in the future,” he tells me. “We are trying to emulate Douglas Tompkins [multi-millionaire philanthropist and owner of the North Face, who died late last year while sea kayaking in Patagonia] by buying land and inviting the government to put more into conservation and national parks. If everything goes well, in 20 or 30 more years we will have protected a quarter of the Puelo Valley as a biosphere reserve that co-exists with tourism, local communities and agriculture.” It’s a bold plan, and one that should be applauded and supported.

The following morning I am up early. With Mauricio still snoozing in the hut, I have the entire cirque to myself. Dawn mist threads through the tall stands of coihue trees and reflects the sun. With 1300 visitors to the park this season, Tagua Tagua is still a little-known secret, but time and the efforts of Rodrigo Condeza will ensure that it doesn’t stay this way for long.