Top 5 Desert Experiences

Giddy up
Namibia

Saddle up on this horseback adventure that traverses what might well be the world’s oldest desert, the Namib in Southern Africa. This 10-night crusade across challenging terrain requires four to eight hours of riding each day, so only experienced horsefolks need apply. Your route begins near the settlement of Solitaire, crosses the Naukluft Mountains then continues towards the Namib Desert. It can be rough going and, at times, you’ll need to dismount to cover tricky territory. Of course, none of that will matter once you’re galloping, wind whipping your hair, past a tower of giraffes or a herd of springboks. By the time you reach the dunes of coastal Swakopmund, you’ll have clocked in almost 300 kilometres of riding, camping under the stars in between. If you’re up to the demands, there’s little chance this horseback desert voyage will disappoint. In hindsight maybe even your glutes will thank you.
inthesaddle.com

Desert of a different kind
Antarctica

What do you get when you swap sand for snow and dunes for glaciers? A white desert. That’s right, deserts aren’t strictly characterised by hot, hostile conditions and sand as far as the eye can see. With an icy, largely uninhabitable landscape devoid of vegetation, Antarctica qualifies too. Which is why we couldn’t have a list of awesome yet desolate experiences and not include White Desert, a once-in-a-lifetime Antarctic journey. The voyage begins in Cape Town, where you board the private White Desert jet bound for the exclusive six-pod Whichaway Camp, your base for the duration of your stay in Antarctica. While the pods look more like a settlement on Mars than luxury lodgings, inside you’ll find plush throws, timber furnishings and rich textures. The expeditions, which range from a one-day, fly-in fly-out tour to an incredible eight-day trip, give you the opportunity to venture where very few humans get the chance to tread. We’re talking getting up close and personal with a 6,000-strong emperor penguin colony, wandering through glowing neon blue ice caves or travelling to the lowest point on earth, the South Pole.
white-desert.com

Desert indulgence
USA

Protected from the harsh elements of the Southern Utah desert by nothing more than a rocky, rugged escarpment, luxury hotel Amangiri appears like a too-beautiful-to-be-real mirage. Minimalist lines and neutral tones allow the luxe digs to blend into their age-wearied backdrop, while concrete walls, timber fittings and blackened steel elements serve to enhance the features of the natural surroundings. Private pools, courtyards or rooftop terraces adjoin each of the 34 suites, further ensuring the desert landscape remains the focal point for visitors. If you do manage to tear yourself away from the stunning vistas, adventure awaits in the form of dawn hot-air balloon rides, rock climbing and horseback riding. Navajo guides are also on hand to share stories, traditions and ritual dances. Amangiri’s open-plan kitchen, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows to maximise the ever-changing outlook, is the ideal dining location, the views matched only by the impeccable quality of the food. Your tummy will rumble at the sight of traditional southwestern dishes served with a modern twist. It may look like an mirage, but we’re sure glad this desert oasis is real.
aman.com

Ride the wave
UAE

What’s the last thing you’d expect to see tucked away in the far-flung sand banks of the United Arab Emirates? We’re guessing you didn’t just say the world’s largest surf pool, but that’s exactly what you’ll find at Wadi Adventure, a world-class water-based adventure park on the outskirts of the palm-fringed city of Al Ain. At 150 metres in length, with a maximum depth of 2.4 metres and the capacity to generate three-metre-high waves every 90 seconds, this surf pool is one super impressive man-made accomplishment. Considering Kelly Slater, a legend of the surfing industry, has taken to the Wadi Adventure waves, you know this place is legit. While the chance to hang 10 in the middle of the desert is as good as any reason to visit, Wadi Adventure is also home to the world’s longest man-made white-water channels. The complex has hosted the Middle East’s World Rafting Championships and serves as an elite training ground for the UAE National Rafting team as well as other kayaking professionals. Forget the water slides and kiddie pools of Wet’n’Wild, this is one seriously soaked experience in the desert.
wadiadventure.ae

Fast and the Furious
USA

It’s hard to believe the biggest thrills in Las Vegas happen about 30 minutes from the famous Strip. And, no, we’re not talking about a hedonistic pool party or an all-night club. This is dirty, dusty and easily the biggest injection of adrenaline you’ll have in years. Strap yourself into a dune buggy and hit the bumpy tracks of the Mojave Desert with the guys from Vegas Off Road Tours. This is definitely no ‘stay in line and follow at slow speed’ experience. Far from it, actually. An instructor in full denim overalls and looking a bit like Jeff Lebowski offers up a few instructions before thrill-seekers hit the accelerator: “Don’t go too hard on the corners. Some dude died out here last week. Not with us… But watch your turns. Oh, and keep up.” With that he’ll shoot through in a cloud of Mojave dust. During the following two hours of insanity there are times when you’ll be sure all four wheels leave the ground, as well as moments when you – whether you’re driving or reluctantly filling the passenger seat – will find yourself screaming from a combination of fear and exhilaration. The trip ends with local craft beers and a barbecue lunch at the Pioneer Hotel. Viva Las Vegas indeed!
vegasoffroadtours.com

Top 5 Boozy Adventures

Six feet under
France

Beneath the historic vineyards of Épernay in the Champagne district
is a series of winding tunnels and hidden caves dug into the chalk. Some date back to Roman times and, apart from a period during World War I when the townspeople hid there to flee the conflict, they’ve been used to store and mature bottles of the region’s famous sparkling wine. Until recently this labyrinth below UNESCO World Heritage-listed Avenue de Champagne was mostly off limits to the average punter. That’s now changing, with more maisons opening their doors. That includes Champagne Boizel, which has been in the same family for five generations and offers English-language tours of its tunnels at 11.30am and 4pm from Tuesday to Saturday. When you’re done, head to Atelier 1834, Boizel’s wine bar, where you can sip on its exceptional offerings by the glass.
boizel.com

Flying over the limit
Australia

It would take you at least 90 minutes to drive from Darwin to the Lodge at Dundee, the bar at the local holiday park in this remote, seaside town. In one of Airborne Solutions’ helicopters though, you’ll be ordering your first icy beer in a mere 25 minutes having taken in some pretty speccy views of the NT coastline along the way. And that’s just the beginning of your day on a seven-hour Heli Pub Crawl that takes in five memorable Top End establishments. Interesting locals with tall tales, some of the country’s more colourful publicans and even a wildlife encounter – one of the stops is Goat Island Lodge on the Adelaide River, where Casey the Croc often comes for a feed – are guaranteed.
airbornesolutions.com.au

Hospitality on Tap
USA

What’s better than spending a whole day at a brewery? Staying there overnight. You can now do just that at the DogHouse, a 32-room hotel on the site of Scottish company BrewDog’s Columbus, Ohio, beer factory. The rooms, not entirely surprisingly, have a masculine vibe – some like the Brewmaster Suite overlook the sour beer works – with plenty of suds on offer throughout the stay. It starts at check-in with the lobby bartender ensuring guests enjoy a welcoming ale, while two fridges – one in the room and the other in the shower – are loaded up with the company’s best-known craft beers and seasonal specials. Oh, there’s an in-room tap, too, that can be hooked up to a growler of whatever bevvy your tastebuds desire. Of course, while you’re here, it would be churlish not to do a tour of the facilities and the huge interactive craft beer museum. We’ll raise a glass to that.
brewdog.com

Tickets Please
South Africa

Finding a designated driver for a vineyard crawl is always a drag. Even more so if you’re voted it. There’s no need to worry in this part of South Africa, located about 80 kilometres east of Cape Town, because here you can board the Franschhoek Wine Tram. The vintage-style railway employs open-air trams and buses to ferry folks around the region, which boasts fine views and a 300-year history of winemaking. Choose from eight hop-on, hop-off lines taking in all the major estates. We think it’s hard to go past the Red Line, which stops at, among other places, glorious Mont Rochelle, where you can partake in wine and canape pairing. Make sure you get an early start if you want to get up close to a cheetah at Grande Provence or take the cellar tour at Rickety Bridge.
winetram.co.za

Have a vine time
Portugal

It’s hard to forget what surrounds you when you settle into your unique accommodations at Quinta da Pacheca in the Duoro Valley. These rolling hills have been home to vines for almost 500 years – back then they were the purview of local monasteries – and nothing about your environs lacks atmosphere. Designed by owners Paulo Pereira and Maria do Céu Gonçalves, each of the 10 mega barrels has a pine exterior and an elegant fit-out that includes a round bed, private bathroom and deck overlooking the vines. Grab yourself a bottle of Pacheca Grande Reserva Tinta Roriz (aged for 18 months in oak barrels) or tawny port, since the region is famous for it, and stare out across the landscape. Otherwise, tour the vineyard, do a tasting, take a cooking class or tuck into a meal of traditional Portuguese cuisine in the restaurant.
quintadapacheca.com

Top 5 Colourful Waterways

Laguna Colorada
Bolivia

You’d be forgiven for thinking this expanse of red water was a mirage if you were travelling in any sort of altered state through Bolivia’s southwest altiplano. You’re not seeing things though. This shallow salt lake, covering 6000 hectares, rests at about 4250 metres above sea level and is a neighbour to the famous Salar de Uyuni. The unusual colour of the water comes from a surfeit of red algae and other microorganisms. White patches are also not a visual illusion – just massive borax deposits on the lake’s surface. The other attractions at Laguna Colorada are the flamingos that can be seen wading in the shallows. One of the three species is the rare James’s flamingo – also known as the puna flamingo – which is native to the region but was thought extinct until a small population was discovered in 1956. While they’re still considered endangered, the abundant plankton in the water keeps them coming back in hefty numbers for food. They’re naturally white, by the way; it’s the algae that stains them this glorious shade of pink

Erawan waterfall
Thailand

Located near the border of Myanmar, Erawan National Park plays host to a range of natural attractions. There’s a handful of caves, including Ta Duang Cave, which features examples of ancient rock art, and wildlife including elephants and deer. But most people who visit this part of western Thailand come for Erawan Waterfall, with its seven tiers and incredible emerald-hued pools. (Erawan, if you were wondering, is the three-headed white elephant of Hindu mythology the falls are said to resemble.) Set deep in the forest, the seven different levels are accessed by an ever-steeper path. The rewards are excellent though, with several of the pools home to schools of fish. The best time to visit is early in the morning – it’s a popular spot for tour groups and the pools become more muddy than miraculous when lots of people get in to swim – and during or just after rainy season (May to October).

Lake Hillier
Australia

Lakes of bubble-gum pink seem to be something of an Australian phenomenon.
Apart from the Insta-famous pond in Melbourne’s Westgate Park that turns pink when salt levels peak, the rest can be found in Western Australia. Lake Hillier is one of the most famous, and the only one that remains pink all year long. The colour is caused by a microalgae called Dunaliella salina, which is found in water that’s highly saline. It’s located on Middle Island in the Recherche Archipelago, near Esperance, and is best enjoyed on a scenic flight with Goldfields Air Services. That way you can truly appreciate the juxtaposition of the lake, which is the same shade as Pepto-Bismol, and the deep blue of the ocean, separated only by a thin stretch of scrub and white sand.
goldfieldsairservices.com

Blue Hole
Egypt

Slightly north of the town of Dahab, you’ll come across this popular dive site in the Red Sea. Even if there wasn’t a cluster of buildings on the stretch of beach that meets the desert announcing you’d arrived, you’d still notice it on approach. Just metres off the shore and surrounded by a shallow reef, this is one patch of seriously royal blue. The reason for the eye-catching change of colour is an underwater sinkhole more than a hundred metres deep. There’s an abundance of coral and marine life on the walls of the hole, making it a very inviting spot for divers and snorkellers. But don’t be fooled by the calm conditions if you’ve strapped a tank to your back. Plenty of divers have come unstuck here, trying to go far deeper than they should to find the underwater arch that leads to the open ocean.

Five Flowers Lake
China

So impressive is the nature reserve and national park of Jiuzhaigou, located in the Sichuan province in China’s southwest, it’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site and World Biosphere Reserve. Covering more than 72,000 hectares it’s renowned for its incredible beauty – tiered waterfalls, snow-topped mountains, colourful autumn leaves – and has seen a steady increase in visitors since it opened to the public in 1982. Rather than boasting just one vibrant colour, Five Flower Lake changes depending on the weather and surroundings. Sometimes it’s turquoise, other times jade, deep blue and even amber. Most of the time it’s vivid aqua, but the best time to visit is when the leaves of the surrounding forest are starting to change and the mirrored surface takes on the varied shades of the foliage.

The 5 Best Countries to Stopover

Colombo
Sri Lanka

You can fly from Melbourne direct to this huge, cosmopolitan metropolis on your way to yet another one. Of all the routes to London, this one would have to be our favourite. It doesn’t cut the journey in half, but it does move you along further than the more popular Asian stopovers of Bangkok or Singapore. Plus, even if you don’t plan on spending a few nights, there is a long layover during which SriLankan Airlines will provide a transit hotel. Colombo has everything you could possibly want in a quick break: golden beaches, monumental architecture and amazing food. At some point you’ll definitely want to hit the baffling but fascinating Pettah Market, but break up sightseeing in the Fort Area with high tea at the Kingsbury, served just the way we like it – buffet style. Take a dip in the sea at Galle Face Beach and give your legs a good stretch at the neighbouring Galle Face Green before heading back to the airport for your next flight.
srilankan.com

Honolulu
USA

There’s a point on any trip from Australia to New York when you wonder if it will ever end. Usually that happens as you are fanging through LAX trying to make your connection; it comes back two hours into that same connecting flight when you realise you’re trapped for another 200 minutes. Believe us when we tell you there is a better way. Jump on a Hawaiian Airlines flight from Sydney or Brisbane to Honolulu then schedule a few days of sun and surf to overcome jet lag. Head to O’ahu’s North Shore, catch a few waves at Waimea Bay (pictured), snorkel with turtles, check out the cute galleries and shops of Haleiwa and eat pounds of shrimp at the famous food trucks. Just as you’re settling in to this new existence it’s back to Daniel K Inouye International Airport for the onwards flight to New York. It’s still two almost-10-hour flights, but a stopover in paradise makes it all worthwhile. Avoiding customs at LAX is an added bonus.
hawaiianairlines.com

Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam

It’s the national airline, so Vietnam Airlines serves up a very different Asian stopover on the way to Europe (it has direct flights to London, Paris and Frankfurt). From Sydney or Melbourne, you’ll fly direct to Ho Chi Minh City, with its combo of local personality and French influences. Colour us crazy, but we’d stop here just for the opportunity to gorge on excellent food. And as much as we love pho and banh mi, this is the chance to head to food streets and night markets for less well-known dishes. (Plus, you can pho for brekky with iced Vietnamese coffee, so you won’t miss out.) Try banh xeo (crispy rice pancakes with seafood), bun mam (noodle soup with fermented fish broth, seafood and pork belly) or anything else that looks tempting. Stretch your legs before getting back on the plane checking out the War Remnants Museum, Saigon Opera House and the Reunification Palace. The Cu Chi Tunnels are just 90 minutes away, so you can even organise a day tour. Last but hardly least, kick back and have one of the city’s famous massages.
vietnamairlines.com

Manila
The Philippines

This is yet another under-appreciated Southeast Asian stopover, with Philippine Airlines flying from Sydney to Manila then on to London. Packed with personality, the Philippines capital is also a little easier to get your head around on a first-time visit than, say, Bangkok. No stop here is complete without a stroll around Intramuros, the old walled city housing most of the Spanish colonial-era landmarks, like San Agustin Church, Plaza de Roma and Casa Manila. The best way to do that is on a walking tour with Carlos Celdran, who is reason alone to visit Manila. There are also plenty of historical World War II sites, many of them, including the spot where General MacArthur bunked until the Yanks scarpered, on the island of Corregidor in Manila Bay. The dining and nightlife scene here is really sophisticated too, with spots like Blackbird, Scottish chef Colin Mackay’s contemporary fine-diner set in the old air-traffic control tower, and hidden cocktail bar Proof setting the scene.
philippineairlines.com

Papeete
Tahiti

It’s true. You do need to go via Auckland first, but we think it’s worth it to stop in French Polynesia on the way to the USA with Air Tahiti Nui. Papeete is the main city on the island of Tahiti, gateway to more than a hundred sun-kissed drops in the ocean – perfect if you’ve got time on your side – and an intriguing taste of France in a tropical paradise. Visit the Gauguin Museum, enjoy the local seafood cooked with Gallic flair, and spend some time outdoors. Even better, head over the isthmus at Taravao on the other side of the island to get to Tahiti Iti (literally little Tahiti). There you’ll find traditional Polynesian villages, amazing waterfalls and sea caves, and excellent hiking. Oh, and it’s also home to one of the world’s most famous surf breaks, Teahupoo, although you should only brave it if you’re better than average on a board.
airtahitinui.com

Top 5 Thrill Rides

The Smiler
UK

Don’t let the name fool you – there’s no way you’ll be smiling once this headache-inducing contraption is done with you. The Smiler is the world’s first 14-loop roller coaster, and while it may not be the tallest (its highest point is 30 metres) it does manage to reach a maximum speed of 85 kilometres an hour. Now that’s uncomfortably fast, especially when The Smiler lasts for a torturous three minutes. But the terror doesn’t just begin the moment the over-shoulder restraints lock into place. Oh no. While lining up in the queue, which begins outside and moves into a darkened room, riders are subjected to projections, special effects, strobe lighting and optical illusions specifically designed to play tricks on your eyes and mind. It’s certainly disorientating enough to make you feel queasy about what’s to come. Located at Alton Towers, the largest theme park in the UK, The Smiler has got enough sneaky tricks and loop-the-loops up its sleeve to guarantee you’ll be left sufficiently shaken.
altontowers.com

Giant Canyon Swing
USA

Swings are for kids, right? Not this one. The Giant Canyon Swing at Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park is big enough and mean enough to strike fear into the hearts of seasoned adrenaline junkies. Perched precariously on the edge of a frighteningly sheer cliff, 400 metres above the Colorado River, the Giant Canyon Swing is not your average piece of playground equipment. For just on 60 seconds it hurtles four passengers at a time, back and forth, to a near vertical angle. It also rockets to a top speed of 80 kilometres an hour, which is enough to create negative G-forces. That’s kinda like having butterflies in your tummy, only a hundred times worse, and with the added fear of vomiting or passing out. Or both. It’s so scary, riders must sign a liability waiver, and anyone under the age of 18 must have a parent’s or guardian’s signature. Even owner Steve Beckley has only ever ridden the Giant Canyon Swing once. Now if that’s not an indicator of how petrifying the experience is, we’re not sure what is.
glenwoodcaverns.com

Insanity the Ride
USA

You’ve got to question the state of mind of whoever conjured up the nightmarish, stomach-churning situation that is Insanity the Ride. Positioned atop the tallest structure in Las Vegas, The STRAT Hotel, Casino and Skypod, this terrifying centrifuge ride uses an enormous mechanical arm to dangle passengers 265 metres in the air. As if that wasn’t enough to have you murmuring a couple of Hail Marys under your breath, all trapped thrill-seekers are then tilted to an angle of 70 degrees (in other words: you’re staring directly at the ground below) and spun around at speeds of up to 64 kilometres an hour. Apparently Insanity is also programmable with various different motion sequences, which means no two rides feel the same. We want to suggest downing a couple of strong, oversized, Vegas-style cocktails before allowing yourself to be strapped into this sky-high monstrosity, but that could end badly for everyone involved. Instead, all you can really do is sit back, admire the view and hope your seatbelt is done up.
thestrat.com

X2
USA

There are normal roller coasters, then there’s the X2. This mechanical beast, which you can find by following the howl of deathly screams all the way to California’s Six Flags Magic Mountain, is in a league of its own – so much so, it’s considered the very first 4D coaster. That means riders are placed in extra-wide 360-degree rotating seats that twist and flip independent of how the main train navigates the tracks. It also runs on four rails, instead of the usual two. Sound distressing? That’s not the end of it. While you’re spiralling through the air headfirst and facedown, the X2 is also accelerating to speeds of 122 kilometres an hour and climbing to an elevation of 60 metres. Oh, and your feet are dangling weightlessly in the air too, which any frequent ride-goer will know is a truly awful sensation. Chuck in a couple of inversions (corkscrew-like manoeuvres), two ultra-rare raven turns (half loops that turn into sheer drops), a backflip and the added drama of a pair of flamethrowers, and you’ve got yourself one hell of a heart-thumping ride.
sixflags.com

Gravity Max
Taiwan

When it comes to roller coaster construction, surely the general rule of thumb is that the track should be fully complete – with no obvious gaps – before it gets the green light for real-life human passengers? Apparently not, according to the crazy people behind the Gravity Max at Taiwan’s Lihpao Land theme park. The thrill (if you can even call it that) of this ride is that it ascends dizzyingly fast to the very edge of a seemingly track-less horizontal platform, before tilting forward to a 90-degree angle – pausing for dramatic effect and maximum scares, of course – and magically reconnecting to the downward track. It then proceeds to shoot through a pitch-black tunnel and straight into a 360-degree vertical loop, reaching a max speed of 90 kilometres an hour and 3.5 Gs of force. The Gravity Max is the world’s only tilting roller coaster, is the first with a true 90-degree drop, and it goes for a blood-curdling two minutes and 26 seconds. Ride at your own peril.
lihpaoresort.com

Be Ready for a Winter Adventure

International travel might be off the cards for now, but that doesn’t mean we’re not taking full advantage of the Australian ski slopes, which have now reopened for business. Although it’s been a late start to the ski season, resorts are already starting to book out across New South Wales and Victoria, with restricted numbers allowed. Staggered lift ticket sales, accommodation bookings prioritised and limited sale periods have booking sites going into overdrive.

Thankfully, the weather is playing along nicely. Mount Buller, Mount Hotham and Falls Creek have already had an icy start to winter, with nice powder falling. Thredbo is a late starter, but the season is expecting great things throughout July and August, as it does every year.

As a ski or snowboard lover, the big question is: are you ready to hit the slopes?

Preparing for the Slopes

If you’ve already booked, or you’re one of the thousands desperately trying to secure your spot on the mountains this winter, it’s time to get ready. And by ‘ready’ we mean making sure you have all the gear you need for a fantastic weekend (or week) of play.

Mountain Designs is easily one of the most recognisable brands in the world when it comes to winter clothing, with top-of-the-range jackets, vests, tops, pants and more available for the entire family. They provide everything you could possibly need to stay warm, dry and protected, from the base to the top.

Base Layers

If you’re a seasoned snow king or queen, you know that the base layer is a second skin – and a must-have when you’re heading out on the mountains. Mountain Designs’ Merino Thermals are by far the pick of the bunch. Based on Woolmark® certified, 100 per cent Australian merino wool, the thermals are innovative, high performance and designed for comfort. Depending on your choice of product, the base layers are either entry-level polypro, 100 per cent wool or a merino wool and recycled polyester blend. Either way, they’re designed to dry fast, which is exactly what you need when you spend the entire day in snow, ice and puddles. Plus, they also wick perspiration away from your skin so you stay dry (and stink-free) while still being warm and breathable. You’ll barely notice you have them on!

Top Layer

Mountain Designs has a new range of softshell snow pants that are designed to allow you to perform all your favourite tricks without missing a beat. They’re heavy duty and durable, but at the same time remain stretchy and adjustable.

Men’s and women’s jackets and vests are a must-have for the ski season, and Mountain Designs has a huge range of colours and designs. One of the best products ever introduced are Mountain Designs’ 100 per cent RDS Goose Down vests. You’re unlikely to find anything warmer. They’re durable, water repellent and lightweight, not to mention easy to pack in your bag as they compress easily (and don’t lose their shape). Snow jackets with synthetic insulation or stretchy full fleece jackets that are quick to dry and wind resistant are another great option.

Wet Weather

With Mountain Designs’ range of women’s and men’s rain jackets, it doesn’t matter if you’re up the mountain covered in snow or hitting the trails when the sleet or rain hits, you’ll be protected, warm and comfortable. GORE-TEX® fabric is particularly popular as it’s waterproof, windproof and fully seam sealed. It also has a durable water repellent finish and the two-layer PACLITE®fabric technology makes the jacket more breathable, lightweight and easy to pack – so you can take it anywhere!

The best thing about Mountain Designs is that it’s an Aussie brand that’s been producing winter and snow gear specifically designed for the Aussie slopes since its inception almost 50 years ago.

This feature is sponsored by Mountain Designs, but we know you love good quality outdoor gear as much as we do, so we thought you’d like it.

12 Epic Australian Adventures

Stanthorpe, QLD
There’s no denying the Granite Belt has done it pretty tough in the past couple of years, with bushfires tag-teaming drought. But all the myths you’ve heard about there being no water for showers and the like are all untrue, and only small sections of the region were damaged by fire. In fact, with the weather cooling it’s the perfect time to follow the Strange Bird Wine Trail. The region’s vignerons have an excellent rep for producing alternative varieties – those strange birds – and following the downloadable map will take you to Ridgemill Estate for saperavi and viognier, Golden Grove Estate for durif and barbara, and about 30 additional spots along the way. There’s plenty of other produce and hospitality to enjoy, too.
granitebeltwinecountry.com.au

Wreck Bay, NSW
Discover more about the history of Australia in Booderee National Park, right near Jervis Bay. Booderee, or as it’s known in the local Dhurga language, Walawaani Njindjiwan Njin Booderee, is a spectacular spot blessed with pristine beaches (Green Patch Beach is pictured at the top of this page), historic sites and Australia’s only Indigenous-owned botanic gardens. It’s also where you join Galamban Aboriginal Tours to find out more about the local culture. Aunt Julie and her family offer a number of different experiences, including Bawa dung-arng (bushfoods, medicines and survival skills), Dgila-nung (weaving) and Dginngi nadgung, which means starry water and includes a spotlight stroll in the forest to a waterhole looking for nocturnal wildlife.
galamban.net

Stirling Range, WA
There are plenty of reasons to make a beeline for Stirling Range National Park: the perfect isolation, the rugged and remote mountain landscape, the carpet of wildflowers come spring and the challenging walk to Bluff Knoll. But, as you might have already guessed, it’s quite a long way from just about everything. Luckily you can base yourself at The Lily, a quirky property right on the edge of the park. Stay in one of the cute self-contained cottages or, even better, in a restored Dakota C-47 (the military version of the DC-3). As well as hosting travellers, owners Pleun and Hennie Hitzert grind wholemeal spelt flour in a Dutch windmill on the property and are happy to show guests how it’s done.
thelily.com.au

Blue Mountains, NSW
The images of flames shooting up the cliffs at Grose Valley were horrifying, but thankfully much of the Blue Mountains was unharmed by bushfire and the region is most definitely open for business. Get to see a part of it hidden to most who journey through for the quaint towns and outstanding views by joining High and Wild Australian Adventures for a day exploring deep into the landscape on a canyoning trip. Scramble, abseil, hike, climb and, when the weather is warmer, add wading, plunging into and swimming in rivers and waterfalls to the adventurous mix.
highandwild.com.au

Fingal, TAS
In the northeast corner of Tassie, bordering Ben Lomond National Park, you’ll find the ultimate getaway. The Creech is an old farm set on the banks of the South Esk River that has been completely transformed with the shearers’ quarters and a wool classer’s cottage converted into contemporary, cosy accommodation. Walk to waterfalls, ride horses into the mountains, go kayaking along the river, and enjoy the clubhouse and bar all miles away from the worries of the modern world.
thecreech.com.au

Port Macquarie, NSW
The plight of koalas during the bushfires broke hearts around the world, but you can lend a hand to those who are caring for them in the aftermath. The Koala Hospital offers a 24/7 rescue operation and has been looking after the rehabilitation of a number of injured marsupials since the fires. You can drop in to the hospital every day to walk around the grounds, but there is also a daily guided tour at 3pm. While the koalas are being fed, a volunteer explains how they arrive in the hospital’s care, the issues they face and about koala conservation in general. Entry and tours are free, but donations are more than helpful. You can also ‘adopt’ a koala, either while you’re there or on the website.
koalahospital.org.au

East Gippsland, VIC
Apart from being the largest system of inland waterways in the country, the Gippsland Lakes is a region of scenic perfection, outstanding beaches, quaint villages and top-notch fishing and boating. If you don’t have your own vessel, book your berth on Pam, a 64-foot ketch that goes for three-hour cruises daily from either Metung or Nungurner. The pearl lugger first sailed in 1901 with the name Dominion, before she was wrecked, rebuilt, assisted in World War II, then was sold off and abandoned. Current owners Dan and Wendy McLay found her in the Northern Territory in 1988, transported Pam back to Gippsland and completely restored her. Life’s a bit gentler for the old girl now as she sails around Raymond Island, Lake King and other local attractions, sometimes accompanied by pods of dolphins.
pearlluggercruises.com.au

Mount Majura, ACT
Just outside Canberra there’s a farmer who is growing black gold. No, he hasn’t worked out how to cultivate oil; instead he grows the French delicacy, Perigord truffles, beneath oak trees. The winter months are the best ones on The Truffle Farm. June to August is the height of the season for these expensive fungi, and visitors can go out with Jayson Mesman and his dog Samson each Saturday and Sunday to dig some up. The tour, which includes an introduction to truffles and a small tasting, takes 90 minutes. Add brunch before the expedition or a six-course lunch after to get the full earthy experience.
thetrufflefarm.com.au

Snowy Mountains, NSW
It’s not too long until the season begins at Thredbo – opening weekend starts on 6 June – and for the first time skiers and boarders will be able to get a new ride to the top of the mountain. Merritts Gondola will be the first of its kind on an Australian ski field and will whisk snow lovers from Thredbo village to the Cruiser area, which has terrain for beginner and intermediate skiers as well as access to some of the resort’s advanced trails. The best bit? It only takes six minutes to get there, rather than the previous 21 minutes. Just imagine how much more slope action you’re going to be able to get.
thredbo.com.au

Kangaroo Island, SA
This is our idea of three perfect hours. Glide across the waves with the epic coastline of Kangaroo Island in view, and slow down when seals are spotted on the rocks or sea eagles swoop overhead. As part of the Island Explorer Tour with Kangaroo Island Marine Adventures you’ll also have the chance to swim with wild bottlenose dolphins, who often appear in a shallow turquoise bay. It’s a year-round option, and even if you don’t feel like getting wet, the curious marine mammals often swim and play around the boat to the amusement of those who stay on board.
kimarineadventures.com.au

Adelaide Hills, SA
For those who like fast cars and good times, buckle up in a Ferrari 488 GTB or Lamborghini Huracán LP 610-4 and take an exhilarating drive through the Adelaide Hills into the Barossa Valley. You’ll stop at the Bird In Hand Winery for morning tea, before Hentley Farm Restaurant hosts the group for a five-course degustation lunch. There are stops at other wineries and distilleries along the way, too. (Seriously, you need to bring someone who doesn’t mind being the designated driver.) Each Prancing Horse Supercar Drive Day hosts a max of four luxe autos led by a dedicated vehicle offering support using a two-way radio. The base is gorgeous Mount Lofty House, so think about tacking on an extra couple of days to add to the decadence.
prancinghorse.com.au

Tawonga, VIC
Look, we are definitely not going to hold your Man From Snowy River fantasy against you. In fact, here’s an amazing way to play it out. At Spring Spur in Victoria’s High Country you can spend the weekend discovering alpine valleys on horseback. And whether you’re a beginner rider or have calluses on your butt, there’s a sturdy, mountain-bred horse to take you through the terrain. At night, you’ll gather for meals in the Riders Lounge before retiring to the modern homestead accommodation. Ready to rough it? Spring Spur also hosts multiday pack rides starting in late spring when the wildflowers are in full bloom.
springspur.com.au

Top 5 Cave Experiences

Cocktails in a cavern
Makarska, Croatia

After a day spent splashing about in the sparkling water of a beautiful cove on the Makarska Riviera between Split and Dubrovnik, head to Club Deep, set in a natural cave formation that also served time as a weapons depot during World War II. There’s a great sun terrace outside – perfect for catching those last rays while enjoying an ice cold Karlovacko – but things get started much later in the evening (usually at about 11pm) when local and international DJs turn up the volume on the latest R&B and house beats. Be warned: when this place is crowded – and since it’s popular with cruises on this part of the coast it often is – it gets really hot. Luckily, no one seems to be too bothered about dress codes.
deep.hr

Wet and wild
Waitomo, New Zealand

As far as having fun in the dark goes it doesn’t get much crazier than this. Pull on a wetsuit and, for the next three hours, climb, clamber and coast through Ruakuri Cave on the North Island. For part of the journey with the Legendary Black Water Rafting Co you’ll be taking the plunge over underground waterfalls, but there’s also the chance to kick back on your inner tube and float through limestone galleries lit by glow worms. Each tour, with a maximum of 12 adventurers, is led by a guide who’ll make sure you emerge safe and sound into the sunlight. The Black Labyrinth tour costs about AU$130.
waitomo.com

Subterranean sleep
Sala, Sweden

If you’re looking to escape the crowds, sun and everything green, why not head underground? This single suite is located 155 metres below the surface in a former silver mine. Guests are given a guided tour of the caverns on arrival – winter woollies are a necessity because the temperature hovers at around 2ºC – before being escorted to the suite to enjoy the peace and complete silence. There’s a bed tucked into one chamber and a dining area where wine, cheese and fruit await. The space is appropriately decked out in silver-hued furniture and candlelight adds a touch of romance. There are a couple of down sides: no mobile reception, although there’s an intercom to communicate with the world above; and the loo is down a dark tunnel (plumbing is a bit of an issue this far underground). The Sala Silver Mine suite costs about AU$750 a night.
salasilvergruva.se

Seasonal shelter
Minneapolis, USA

In the heart of Minnehaha Regional Park in Minneapolis, you’ll find a creek that eventually cascades 16 metres into a pool not far from the Mississippi River. The Minnehaha Falls has been a top tourist attraction since 1855, when Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote about it in A Song for Hiawatha (you can see a statue of the co-founder of the Iroquois Confederacy not far from the falls). But for part of the year the water stops falling. In the depths of winter, it freezes up, creating a bright blue, glowing grotto. There are paths down to the falls and it’s quite safe to walk behind them and take photos.
minneapolisparks.org

Underground music
Maro, Spain

All year round the Cuevas de Nerja are a popular Malagan tourist attraction. Remains found in them suggest they’ve been inhabited since about 25,000BCE and have, in the years since, been used for everything from farming to pottery production. But once a year they take on a much grander role, hosting the Festival Internacional de Música y Danza de Granada. The festival is held in June and July each year. Internationally renowned performers including Yehudi Menuhin, José Carreras and Dame Kiri Te Kanawa have all filled the caves with their soulful songs, while dancers from the Ballet Nacional de España and La Lupi Flamenco have soared across the stage.
cuevadenerja.es

Riding the Blue Derby Mountain Bike Trails

It’s while careering down a mountainside at 30 kilometres an hour I realise my once wide vocabulary has reduced to two little words. “Fuuuck!” and “shit” aren’t typically part of my everyday vernacular, but they are making a frequent appearance as I ride along the Blue Derby mountain bike trails. Uttered with varying degrees of frustration and terror, they are occasionally accompanied by noises most often heard in labour wards.

I’m mountain bike riding in Tasmania, along the new Blue Derby trails to be precise, and have experienced almost every iPhone emoji imaginable. Although it seems most riders I pass experience just one: unadulterated glee. As the largest single mountain bike project undertaken in Australia it’s a honey pot for enthusiasts of the sport, offering everything from cruisy greens through to gnarly double blacks. Anyone can pitch up to the trails, bike in tow, ready to test out what this remote and rugged corner has to offer. I spot all kinds of folks gearing up – families with young kids, lone riders with kelpies and big groups of fiftysomethings out on a weekend jaunt. But those who want to get the most out of Blue Derby’s bounty would be wise to enlist the help and guidance of expert local riders and, at a three-hour round-trip back to Launceston, to stay in lodging nearby.

Newcomer Blue Derby Pods Ride promises both, with some incredible Tasmanian produce tossed in for good measure. Dreamed up by young local couple Steve and Tara Howell in 2014, their eco-friendly lodging was finished in April 2017. Here, guests spend three days and two nights exploring the dirt ribbons that thread through the green valley (for some of the best mountain biking in Tasmania) and bedding down in four minimalist, custom-built cabins hidden deep in the forest. In fact, the pods are so well camouflaged among the canopy of gum trees they can’t be spotted from any point on the biking network, which, at 80 kilometres long, is quite a feat.

The trails have been just as sensitively built, with nature’s features considered at every turn. Completed in October 2016, Blue Derby was designed by the company responsible for every single World Championship and Olympic course in all of Australia. So great is its pedigree that stage two of leading mountain bike race the Enduro World Series was hosted at this very spot in 2017 – the first time it had ever graced Australian shores.

While ride leaders Steve and John are both wildly patient and encouraging – coaxing me into doing things I did not think possible on two wheels – it quickly becomes apparent I will not be challenging any pro-racers for their crowns.  However, I do seem to excel at one very niche sporting pursuit: falling. In fact, I might just be the most agile and exceptional faller on whom Steve has ever laid eyes. I can fall both while moving and while stationary, and my arsenal of techniques is pretty fierce. There’s the Matrix-style flying eagle that sees me slicing through the air to land crouched on the path below; the prayer position, where in a blink I find myself 90 degrees away from the trail, kneeling amid the ferns over a felled tree; the more vigorous ‘running man’, where I make haste to separate myself from 13 kilos of wheels and alloy; and the ‘come hither’ look, where I land unfurled on a shrubby mound, miraculously still half upright.

Thankfully there’s a lot to admire at Blue Derby, even while you’re eating dirt. The early sun creeps over the valley and streams through the foliage in a way that verges on biblical. Emerald fronds paper the track. Towering eucalypts dip their heads into the morning fog and their feet into lazy creeks. Even the drive here from Launceston is confoundingly beautiful. We cruise past flaxen hills with shadows spilled across them, past lime green paddocks strewn with sheep and speckled cows, past rusted steel water towers and old saw mills and rows of statuesque golden poplar trees.

John says it’s the rich, chocolate soil of Blue Derby that he loves most. For me it’s the chance to get reacquainted with the startling symmetry of nature. And there is no better company to do it in. Most people can easily reel off the top five celebrities they want to get under the sheets with, but John is a man who will joyfully recite the names of his five favourite trees.

Both he and Steve are equally impassioned about Blue Derby, the natural environment and the sport, as well as the meditative moments this holy trinity can bestow. “The thing we’ve really tried to focus in on is a release from highly strung lives,” Steve explains. “Jumping on a mountain bike and experiencing the ‘flow’ – that moment where you’re focused on nothing but the trail.”

With my hands scratched and bloodied, my knees a fetching shade of lilac and an incredibly sore saddle, I am slow to worship at Steve’s church. Uphill sections leave me panting like a portly pug in summer. Cross-country tracks are littered with granite slabs that the mere sight of causes me to topple. And the tight, steep ochre corners known as berms that feature on downhill slopes? Well they are my kryptonite. I fall down and get back up on repeat, gritting my teeth and narrowing my eyes nervously anticipating the next clanger. Naturally, all instruction goes out the window. I am no longer capable of the ‘ready’ and ‘attack’ positions that raise me up above my seat ready to tackle the course – this rider has become solely focused on not flying over the handlebars.

Related: Visit Victoria and mountain bike there 

Working through my relationship issues with Bruce (the ferocious moniker I’ve given my $4,000 dual-suspension mountain bike) is the first step towards conquering these rocky trails, advises Steve. “Bruce’s wheels will eat that up for breakfast,” he says as we talk about day two of snaking through the temperate rainforest. It’s a statement I am reluctant to believe, having been separated from Bruce with moderate force twice in the first 10 minutes of day one. But after a morning spent learning that falling doesn’t hurt all that much my confidence builds.

Slowly, slowly, my ride becomes laced with fleeting epiphanies. Moments where I ‘get it’. Moments where it is just me and Bruce moving to the beat of the track, carving through the undergrowth, the trail unfurling bit by bit in front of us, only my hands to guide and my feet to push. We sail over ground that ripples like waves and cruise down steep slopes only to roll back up hooked earthen walls. And in those moments I forget about my bruised, aching limbs and my scratched palms, and I get lost in the sanctity of the flow.

By lunch on day one there is no doubt Bruce and I have become better friends than anticipated, but after the flurry of adrenaline (and exertion) I am only too happy to adjourn for snacks. We picnic on smooth cheeks of rock as a stream trickles by, knocking back freshly brewed Aeropress coffee and exchanging stories of run-ins with granite.

Despite full bellies, some are still itching to rewind up switchbacks and cruise down tacky terrain. I have other ideas. Fortunately at Blue Derby Pods Ride the motto is ‘choose your own adventure’. For me, drowsy with food on a hot afternoon, that involves whittling away the remaining hours of daylight back on the dining room deck. I laze like a Roman emperor on a colossal beanbag throne with a pot of mint tea at my disposal. I peruse the book collection in the cosy, cushioned nook hidden behind a cupboard door. I tuck into an afternoon tea of hot, buttered popcorn and cold local honey porter.

As the sun sinks everyone regroups over an antipasto board. Silken triple cream brie, ruby red discs of cacciatore sausage and bowls laden with delicately flaked salmon rillettes sate appetites sharpened by fresh mountain air. And later, when the log fire is ablaze, and it’s beyond all doubt that I’ve consumed far more than I can possibly have exerted, I still manage to make space. Creamy Scottsdale potatoes are tempered with a tangy caper olive dressing, while crisp slabs of pork belly and a rocket and parmesan salad make for excellent bedfellows. With a menu designed by lauded Tassie chef Daniel Alps, plus a bounty of local, seasonal, paddock-to-plate ingredients, it’s hard to say no.

By 9pm it’s also increasingly hard to stay awake and the thick doona that graces my small, wooden pod looks more and more tempting. I fall asleep to the sound of wallabies stamping their feet, and with the constellations in the wide window above my pillow as a nightlight.

In a blink we reach day three and our final ascent (and descent). The Blue Tier trailhead sits nearly 600 metres above sea level. It’s 20 kilometres long, meandering from barren subalpine plateaus down to rich, moss-drenched rainforest. Out of all the trails across the globe Steve has ever run, this one is his favourite.

The start line is rocky in more ways than one, and amid the wild mushrooms and lichen-freckled grass I suffer a crisis of confidence and stand snivelling on the mountaintop, convinced I am about to meet my death. Or at least a rather unpleasant accident that requires reconstructive surgery. John gives me a pep talk but the girl in me that’s more comfortable at Gelato Messina than up a mountain says it’s all a big ruse. Yet somehow, my confidence builds.

Related: After a ride, sizzle in Tassie’s floating sauna 

In an instant the landscape changes and so does my mood. From stony, stark and sunbleached we pedal into emerald green. The Goblin Forest is a dreamlike world straight out of Lord of the Rings, where a toffee confetti of myrtle leaves dusts the track, and a maze of twisted branches provides a cool, dark corridor. We swoop through streams and over bony wooden fingers extending from tree trunks, and I eventually concede to John my audible whoops as we gather pace and fly round corners.

When we finally reach the end several hours later my cheeks feel flush with satisfaction and I almost can’t believe it’s all over. I feel proud of the small blister forming on my left palm, my violet knees and my tired legs. And somehow I feel the gnawing urge to throw myself down a mountainside at 30 kilometres an hour all over again.

When in Rome

Awash with tradition and heritage, and casually studded with historic structures spanning almost three millennia, Rome can feel like a city living on past glories. Many restaurants around the city’s tourist hubs offer lookalike menus with classic Roman dishes like cacio e pepe (pasta served with cheese and pepper), or cona di gelato, which goes for about AU$6 around the Colosseum and Spanish Steps.

But just one metro stop south of the ancient world’s most impressive stadium, chefs in an emerging neighbourhood are reinterpreting the city’s culinary traditions with a contemporary attitude. Prices are lower, flavours are bigger, and there’s a good chance the refreshing limone ice-cream on offer is crafted from citrus fruit foraged directly from local orchards.

On the River Tiber’s southeastern bank, grittily authentic Testaccio has long been a proud working-class neighbourhood. More than a century ago, the area housed Europe’s biggest slaughterhouse, and many of the abattoir’s lower-paid workers – dubbed la vaccinara – were gifted the quinto quarto (fifth quarter) of the cow and pig parts no one else wanted. Tripe, oxtail and other organs were incorporated into traditional Roman cuisine, and now Testaccio’s eateries and market stalls are resurrecting these classic ingredients with a modern twist.

The Trapizzino empire incorporates two stores in New York, but the original Testaccio location is still the best. After merging the triangular shape of traditional tramezzino sandwiches with pizza dough, Roman chef Stefano Callegari crafted hearty fillings to accompany his pillowy pockets of fluffy pizza bianca. New wave fillings include Ethiopian-style zighini (beef stew), but the flavours from the days of la vaccinara are the most popular with Trapizzino’s loyal regulars. Washed down with craft beers from Italy’s Baladin Brewery, tramezzino crammed with tender oxtail or tripe, tomato, pecorino cheese and mint are regularly devoured by revellers overflowing from Testaccio’s late-night clubs and bars.

For somewhere to eat during the day, Mercato Testaccio is an essential  destination. Fruit and produce vendors offer fresh, local ingredients, and at stalls selling some of the area’s best street food, chefs channel the market’s historic roots into their reinvented Roman cuisine. If you dig a little deeper, you’ll also find some of Rome’s best Sicilian flavours.

There’s more sandwich action at Mordi e Vai, with panini crammed with an ever-changing range of fillings. Mainstream flavours include spicy salsiccia (sausage) or polpette (meatballs) in a rich tomato sauce, both best enjoyed when the hearty fillings soak through Mordi e Vai’s crisp ciabatta buns. Traditional cucina Romana is expressed through more challenging fillings like coratella e carciofi (a robust mix of heart, lung and artichoke) and the classic flavours of trippa alla Romana (Roman-style tripe), cooked slowly to a creamy texture capable of converting even the most ardent of tripe sceptics.

Elsewhere in the market, it’s Rome’s classic pizza alla palla that receives a contemporary makeover. Traditionally baked in a rectangular shape, cut off in slabs and sold by weight, CasaManco’s versions, crafted by husband and wife team Andrea Salabe and Paola Manco, have assumed cult status in Rome since they launched in 2017. Served on rustic wooden platters and more akin to a crispy-based flatbread, the pizzas feature traditional combinations like prosciutto and fig or anchovy and zucchini flowers as well as the elaborate but balanced blend of mortadella sausage, ricotta, Sicilian blood orange and honey. Fruity prosecco is available at an adjacent stall for just AU$3 a glass. The Sicilian theme is reinforced nearby at Emporio di Sicilia’s market counter overflowing with the best of flavours from Italy’s southernmost province.

Deliciously bitter chocolate from the Sicilian town of Modica partners with crisp cannoli pastries dusted with reputedly the world’s finest pistachios from the town of Bronte, while some of Rome’s best arancini are arranged carefully in neat rows. Infused with saffron and often filled with melanzane (eggplant) or a meaty ragu sauce, Sicily’s signature rice balls are a culinary legacy of 175 years of Arab rule in the ninth century. Served warm and crunchy and teamed with a zingy glass of cola-like chinotto, they’re yet another tasty contender for the title of Rome’s best twenty-first–century street snack.

 

ARANCINI

Makes 8–10

INGREDIENTS
300g arborio rice
1 tbs saffron
50g grated parmesan
1 tbs Italian parsley, finely chopped
2 tbs butter
2 eggs
100g mozzarella, chopped
1 tbs peas
1 tbs chopped pistachios
2 tbs flour
4 tbs breadcrumbs
vegetable oil, for frying

METHOD
Combine the rice and 500ml (2 cups) water in a pan. Add a pinch of salt for seasoning, then bring to a boil and cook slowly over a very low heat. Make sure you stir frequently until all the water has been absorbed.

After dissolving the saffron in hot water, stir into the rice along with parmesan and finely chopped Italian parsley.

Once this mixture has cooled slightly, stir in the butter and one egg.

Beat the remaining egg and season with salt and pepper.

When the rice mixture has cooled further, form into eight to 10 balls about the
size of a mandarin. Keeping your hands wet will prevent the rice from sticking.

Form a small depression in the middle of the ball and carefully place a small amount of the mozzarella, peas and pistachios.

Seal the opening, dust the rice balls with flour then roll in the beaten egg and, finally, the breadcrumbs. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set the breadcrumbs.

Heat 5cm of oil to 190ºC (it’s ready when you drop a cube of bread into it and it goes golden in about 10 seconds). Fry a few of the arancini at a time until golden (about 4–5 minutes). Drain on paper towels before serving.