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It’s noon on a Wednesday, and I’m making the most of a rain-free day by getting out and exploring Stavanger – the city I’ve called home for the past four months. I make my way around the mirror-like harbour, past the city’s iconic row of waterfront heritage buildings, and enter the charmingly haphazard maze of streets that make up its heart.
Historians will tell you that Stavanger was classified as a city as early as 1226, but this vibrant hub in the southwest of Norway didn’t spring to life until the great oil boom of 1969. Striking black gold a mere 300 kilometers off the mainland was the catalyst for the city’s growth, and the resulting influx of people and industry earned it the title of the ‘Oil Capital of Norway’.
They’re unapologetically proud of their drilling history in Stavanger. It’s the lifeblood of this city, and it’s there for all to see, immortalised in the surprisingly fascinating Norsk Oljemuseum. But, Stavanger is a city with so much more substance than oil.
Beneath its industry, the city is a natural beauty. Within half an hour’s reach of the CBD you’ll find Borestranda, a sandy stretch of beach known for its pumping surf break and buzzing seasonal campsite. By contrast, the tiny, ex-monastic island of Mosterøy offers a coastline that’s rugged and wild, framed by the towering cliff line of Mastrafjorden. But no cliff line is as epic as that of nearby Lysefjorden. This gaping fjord is home to the famed Preikestolen, a 600-metre-high, flat-top cliff (perfect for hiking) with panoramic views seemingly pulled straight from a Hollywood blockbuster.
On a quest for the best view within the city’s bounds, I climb up the small but steep hillside to Gamle Stavanger, a protected heritage precinct perched above the main harbour. It’s the epitome of a fairy tale village: warm and charming, lined with quaint, uniformly white wooden cottages that hark back to the 18th and 19th centuries. If Gamle Stavanger is the grand old dame of town, then the rainbow row of shopfronts at nearby Fargegaten is indeed its rebellious little sister.
Directly translated as ‘colour street’, this short pedestrian mall is an eclectic mix of brightly painted cafes, bars and retailers. Here, I rifle through the racks of pin-up style dresses at Syvende Himmel; sip on a coffee and bury my nose in a secondhand book from the cafe-turned-bookstore, Bøker og Børst; and settle into one of the brown leather booths at Stavanger’s favourite craft beer venue, Cirkus, with a syrupy dark ale in hand.
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On a warmer day, utepils (which translates to ‘drinking beers in the sun’) would have been on the cards. Being a much-loved Norwegian pastime, Stavanger isn’t short on places to enjoy outdoor beers. The recently opened Lervig Local is the urban outpost for the city’s largest local brewery, who have taken over the green parkland adjacent to them with picnic tables. Just a short drive out of town and Tananger’s Hummeren Hotel, and the beachside Sola Strand Hotel, serve utepils and seafood-forward fare with a side of water views.
But, it’s the beer gardens at Hansenhjørnet, Beverly Hills Fun Pub, Oven Paa and Proud Mary Pub that you’ll want to patronise on a Wednesday or Thursday. They’re all friendly neighbours in a row of harbourfront heritage buildings, and are the driving force behind the city’s busiest public street party, Fjåge i Vågen. It’s utepils on steroids; a street-closing celebration of afternoon sunshine, lager and local live music.
As noon nears, my growing appetite leads me to Olive Tree, a cosy Italian restaurant and bar that opened its doors just as Norway was thrown into lockdown. It’s one of many Italian restaurants in the city. Still, none are quite as popular as the multi-level Villa 22 that dishes out bubbly-based woodfired pizzas and bittersweet negronis from its prime waterfront location. Just like its party-throwing neighbours on the harbour, Villa 22’s popularity isn’t so much a case of totally groundbreaking fare as it is location, location, location.
A five minute stroll away is the lively Mexican joint, Harry Pepper. People come for the blackened lamb and build-your-own-fajitas menu, but stay for the collection of more than 50 mezcals and tequilas. Seafood lovers needn’t wander much further, with Fisketorget, the local fish market known for its creamy, catch-of-the-day fiskesuppe (fish soup), just around the corner.
Walk a little further afield, and you’ll find the tiny but mighty 10-seat Sabi Omakase, the second-ever restaurant in Stavanger to attain Michelin star status. The first was the much-lauded RE-NAA, a fine-dining experience serving up a grand total of 22 courses, each one spotlighting hyper-local Stavanger produce.
As I wind up my day of exploring and make my way back home, I smile to myself; I’ll never be a local in this city, but, for now, I’m happily soaking up every last bit of Stavanger’s cultural vibrancy and small-town feel.
Take A Hike
As a travel agent I have the unique opportunity of speaking with hundreds of travellers as well as my social media followers, giving me a real sense of public opinion on travelling through the Beehive State. Unsurprisingly Mormons, desert and national parks topped the list of interests.
But while Utah certainly has an abundance of all those things, there is so much more on offer here, making it (in my opinion) one of the most underrated frontier states in all of the U.S.
The most surprising thing about Utah – aside from the fact it has the third largest number of national parks in any U.S. state – is that the is that the sheer number of state parks and national monuments are so impressive they rival any of the Mighty Five® which the state is better known for; these are Zion, Arches, Canyonlands, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef national parks.
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If you’re an adventure lover and a fan of the great outdoors, there really is no other place on the planet quite like Utah. One hour you can be swiftly pedalling down ruby red-coloured slick rock, the next you’re wedged between a towering slot canyon, waist deep in crystal clear water. You could be cruising down world-class ski slopes in the morning, and hiking through a wonderland of hoodoos (columns of weathered rock) and pine trees that same afternoon.
Utah shines in every season, with 238 days of sun a year (well above the national average) so when you visit really depends on what you’re hoping to experience. For snow lovers, mid-November through to April is best, especially in January to March if you’re craving deep pow. For hikers, look at the seasons of Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) for comfortable conditions. The summer months (June to August) are best for alpine hiking and water sports.
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BOOK HERE
We laced up our boots in the capital, Salt Lake City, to kick off a monumental road trip. You can take a hike from day one on your visit by heading out to the Great Salt Lake or acquaint yourself with the state’s fascinating Mormon roots by checking out the Temple Square complex. The Utah State Capitol building and the National History Museum are also well worth some time while you’re still in the big smoke, and if you can catch the Utah Jazz basketball team at home, it’s game on!
From Salt Lake City, we ventured through rocky desert landscapes, pristine forests, glistening waterways, and the wild west, all the way down through the deep south of Utah, to Las Vegas, Nevada.
While hiking and landscapes were what we were originally craving on this visit, we found ourselves smiling from ear to ear with charming locals, falling in love with quirky desert towns, and having foodie experiences that still make my taste buds moist at the memories.
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If I had to sum up Utah in an elevator pitch, I’d say it’s like a game of pass the parcel. When the music stops and you rip off the next layer of wrapping paper, you’ll be squealing with delight and it’s one of those games where Mum and Dad have packed an epic present in each layer.
Camel up, it’s time to live life elevated.
Here’s five epic recommendations, a detailed road trip itinerary from our creator and the best way to discover (and book) the real Utah with get lost:
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It’s not a cliche: it should be a God-given right for everyone to have the opportunity to experience the magic and diversity that Zion, Arches, Canyonlands, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef national parks offer. It still blows my mind how different each of these parks are, yet they’re so easily accessible to navigate within a week.
TAKE A HIKE
The AU$115 America the Beautiful pass, gives you access to all federally managed land units (national parks, national forests, national monuments, etc.) It’s good for a year from the month of purchase. You can pick one up at any national park entrance station.
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Part of the ‘Trail of the Ancients’, this national scenic byway is a roadway that drastically switches back and forth on itself at a mind boggling 11 percent grade, carved into a cliff face. You breathe in while you’re driving this stretch of road simply as a natural protection instinct from the sheer drop. Yet, the views over San Juan River Canyon will balance your adrenaline. It is simply stunning at the top. It was a combination of both these elements that made me really feel alive.
TAKE A HIKE
FREE
I went all gung-ho to tick off the Mighty Five® national parks. And while they are certainly pretty epic in their own right, I was floored by how insane the lesser known parks were. I was questioning how they could not be honoured with the same national park status? There are 44 state parks, 9 national monuments, and several other areas defined as really cool landmarks. At this point, I decide that I need to move to Utah to visit each and every one.
TAKE A HIKE
AU$108 for an annual State Park Pass which is a no brainer if you’re visiting a few. They can be around AU$15 per park if you pay individually.
If the aqua coloured truck doesn’t stop you in your tracks as you pass by the town of Boulder, the scent of perfectly cooked Mexican wafting through your window will have you parked up in no time. Sit under the cottonwoods to enjoy their fare, and take some extra away with you to fuel you on your next hike.
TAKE A HIKE
Soda AU$4, taco AU$8, burrito AU$20
You’re in the most adventurous state in the U.S, so it’s time to try something new. Challenge yourself on a higher graded hike, mountain bike, canyoning adventure, bouldering ledge, rock climb, fly fishing trip, ATV, jet ski, water ski, snow ski, snowboard or slackline. If you’ve ever wanted to try something new that will really get your heart racing, Utah is calling your name.
TAKE A HIKE
Choosing to get out of your comfort zone = priceless
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GET LOST’S NINE-NIGHT UTAH ITINERARY
DAY 1 SALT LAKE CITY
DAY 2 SALT LAKE CITY TO GREEN RIVER
DAY 3 THE FIRST OF THE MIGHTY FIVE
DAY 4 THE WILD WEST
DAY 5 MONUMENT VALLEY TO CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK
DAY 6 WORKING ON THAT MIGHTY FIVE
DAY 7 BRYCE CANYON TO KANAB
DAY 8 THE FINAL FIVE
DAY 9 ZION TO CEDAR CITY
DAY 10 CROSSING THE FINISH LINE
Click here to DOWNLOAD A DETAILED PDF
get in the know // Utah man Walter Frederick Morrison invented the frisbee in 1948. It was originally called the Pluto Platter.
Eden Found
It’s been a while between drinks…
International trips have been few and far between for me in recent years, and the need to hand over a passenger arrival card to a smiley customs officer at Nadi Airport in Fiji catches me off guard.
In a fluster, I apologetically rummage through my carry-on bag. Before my flight, I was told patience is a virtue which all Fijians are born with. They commonly refer to this trait as ‘Fiji Time’ and in what feels like actual slow motion, I finally locate my immigration card, scrunched up in my back pocket.
The officer scrutinises it for only a second, then his face lights up once he learns where I’m headed. “My friend, you’re about to experience the real Fiji,” he says.
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It’s mind-blowing to think that Fiji, a mere smudge in the South Pacific, is actually an archipelago of more than 330 different islands. The Vanua Levu group, which borders the Koro Sea in the South Pacific, makes up only eight of these, but is home to some of the most spectacular coral reefs and rainforests.
This micro archipelago boasts a colourful Fijian culture which I’m told by ‘Mr Customs’ I will fall in love with.
Vanua Levu attracts a passionate diving community, and with some of the best marine parks in the world, why wouldn’t it? For this cautious adventurer, who’s barely ventured more than a metre below sea level, I’m determined to uncover what else the region has to offer.
It’s now 5:30am, and the breathtaking sight of first light peeks above the horizon and bathes the unmistakable Vanua Levu landscape in a warm glow. My first stop is Taveuni Island, Fiji’s third-largest island, often referred to by its other name, ‘Garden Island.’ An enormous range of tropical plant species found here makes Taveuni the envy of any indoor houseplant enthusiast. Palms, ferns, hibiscus and Devil’s Ivy – something that you’d pay just shy of AU$100 a pot in a Toorak plant store – seem to blanket the entire Taveuni landscape.
As we traverse the island’s rugged roads, I’m fortunate to be joined by a local, Akanisi. She was born and raised on the Island and handles a 4WD with rally-like precision as she races up the steep terrain leading to Bobby’s Farm.
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Bobby is a conservationist on his 100-hectare property, which manages to pack in a rainforest, a farm and marine park. He runs agritourism adventures that he assures me will engage all my senses today. Bobby has a deep connection to the land. Whether sucking on fleshy cocoa seeds, munching on a germinated coconut, or rubbing leaves to create a soapy lather, the aim of his tours is to link Fijian culture and nature. This isn’t difficult – the two seem to go hand in hand.
I’m still rubbing my eyes awake one early morning when Bobby points, hawk-eyed and alert, at a seemingly innocuous tree. I do a double-take. “That dove can’t be orange?”
He smiles. The orange dove is endemic to Vanua Levu and to catch a glimpse of one is a rare and beautiful experience.
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The Tagimoucia flower is another unexpected sighting. I’m told that the only place in the world where this crimson and white blossom grows, is on Taveuni’s highest peak, Des Voeux Peak (which is also Fiji’s second highest mountain). It blooms between October and December.
The elevation of Des Voeux Peak is close to 1,200 metres above sea level and offers spectacular 360-degree views of the island. A four-hour hike to the peak amongst machete-toting farmers and a few opportunistic Fijian street dogs makes for a livelier than usual hike. Des Voeux Peak now has a dirt road for the less agile, thanks to a phone tower installation; however, the drive is not for the faint-hearted.
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On this trek, I learn of a local in the village of Lavena who takes tourists out waterfall spotting on a small fibreglass fishing boat. Simi, the Taveuni native, is part of a small community run business called Lavena Ecotourism Tours which offers waterfall adventures along the Lavena Coast and can be organised through any resort in Taveuni.
Most locals on Taveuni know Simi’s number and within moments of my brief phone call to Simi, I’m on the water exploring the southeast side of Taveuni, unreachable by land.
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Ducking and weaving through mangroves, we reach Wainivakaca Falls, a three-tiered waterfall cascading from the spectacular mountains of the lush Bouma National Park. I’m ready for a dip. As hundreds of freshwater fish swim rampantly through my legs, I take a moment to appreciate this remote paradise, far away from reception, Wi-Fi, traffic or troubles.
I take a quick ferry ride (and I use the term ‘ferry’ very loosely) across to mainland Vanua Levu, this time finding myself in the charming village of Vunikura. The locals gather shoreside to greet us with a welcome song and an enthusiastic, “Bula!” This is the second time this has happened today already, but goosebumps still shoot down my now tanned arms as I listen to locals sing and strum their ukuleles with glowing smiles.
Tradition dictates something known as a ‘Sevusevu’ to be performed before visitors can enter a village. It involves a presentation of a bundle of Kava roots to the village chief. It’s a gesture of respect and establishes a meaningful relationship between the host and visitor. With the chief’s blessing, I’m swept up by the village locals, eager to show me around their home.
By the time we reach a small community shelter, the entire village has congregated in traditional Fijian dress to perform a traditional Fijian folk song and dance. It seems all Fijians are born with the gift of music and dance, a trait made only more impressive to someone who inherited two left feet and a tuneless singing voice.
The music ends and the high tide still hasn’t arrived to take our humble fishing boat home, and I’m again reminded by the locals of ‘Fiji Time.’ And what else does one do when waiting on Mother Nature’s Uber in Fiji? Bring out the kava bowl, of course. The bowl is used for mixing a sedative drink made from the kava plant’s roots. It’s the perfect end to a rigorous day and the perfect way to forget about time.
As the villagers pass around a coconut cup filled to the brim with kava; the local joy for life once again becomes apparent. Local crooners now serenade us with smooth, contemporary Fijian love songs whilst children play rugby on the village pitch.
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It is all infectious and heartwarming. And as the last light dips below Buca Bay (while I’m still drinking kava and waiting for my boat) I realise that Fiji is not just about the sea, the sun or the sand; it’s about joy, its people and their own sense of time.
get in the know Vanua Levu was once known to European traders as Sandalwood Island for its abundance of the handy timber.
FROM HAWAII WITH LAVA
As we round the familiar silhouetted Kona-coast, I see a cluster of similar dive boats to mine, all bobbing in the water surrounding giant, illuminated lily pads (which I would later realise are just stand up paddleboards) all filled with snorkelers and divers. My fear immediately turns to wonder.
“Alright! Let’s get in!” my dive instructor commands.
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As I slip into the fresh (and unnervingly warm) Pacific ocean off the coast of the Island of Hawaiʻi, I grab a handful of rope around one of the paddle boards which also has a high powered LED light attached to it and is pointing straight down into the pitch black abyss below. I put my head under the water and almost swallow my snorkel mouthpiece, as three massive Manta rays do acrobatic flips inches away from our faces in our spotlight.
Night diving and snorkelling is one of the truly unique experiences that the Jack’s Diving Locker does exceptionally well. The learning curve to get into the water is only minutes long, and the resulting experience is unlike anything I have ever seen before. The lights attract plankton, which in-turn attracts giant Manta ray which in-turn attracts us divers. They are otherworldly, beautiful and as jaw dropping as an underwater Cirque Du Soleil show from another planet.
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Having your mind blown works up a surprising appetite, so back in the tranquil town of Kailua-Kona I make a dash for dinner at a restaurant called Umekes, where a ravenous long line of people has already formed outside. In a place like Umekes, it’s quite difficult for a foodie to order. Taro leaf roasted coconut oysters, fresh Ahi fish belly with unagi glaze, and a dish simply called ‘Get In My Belly’ which is too decadent to even try to describe in a story like this. It’s a symphonic menu and I hold myself back from ordering everything.
“Don’t think, just do it,” says Chrissi, my all knowing bartender as she slides two shot glasses stealthily with a sideways squint.
“Left, then right. Left … then right,” she repeats to me with determination. I do as she says for fear of upsetting her and I smash the liquid down my throat in its prescribed order. Immediately my mouth starts doing the electric slide.
“That’s buffalo trace whiskey, and that’s a house made mango pickle shot. We call it a Buffalo Soldier. Together, they make decisions here easier to make,” Chrissi says with a wink and smile.
I think to myself, what a novel cure for the indecisive folk.
At the crack of dawn, still sporting a Buffalo Soldier hangover, I shoot across the Jurassic-era like centre of the island in my hire car on Route 200, destined for the city of Hilo on the island’s east coast. I arrive at the city’s charming little airport that resembles a ramshackle bus stop, anchored in the middle of paradise and minutes later I’m walking on the palm tree-lined tarmac towards my helicopter. As I climb aboard the shiny Bell 407 chopper and strap myself in, fear catches up to me and I realise there’s no doors. Immediately my terror-inducing experience of diving the ocean at night wasn’t that scary after all. Now I’ve got to fly over the mouth of a couple active volcanoes without any doors.
Hanging out of the helicopter, now suspended over a lava-filled active volcano, I witness the raw and powerful nature that makes this chain of islands so special, peering into the spewing, molten guts of Mother Earth. A full hour passes while I’m looking down the lens of my camera and we’re back on terra firma, safe and sound, but apparently I wasn’t done flying for the day.
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Hawaii Zipline Tours is just a half hour north of Hilo and is the best example of what a ziplining adventure through a tropical jungle can be. I’m driven up to a stunning, working plantation where I’m placed on a short zipline just a foot off the ground to get the initial feel of soaring through the air only tethered to a line. There are about a dozen lines here, each getting progressively more intense. And as I zip through the farm, trying each line, I learn about the various types of vegetation, food, fruit and history that this part of the island holds sacred. I even pick bananas and other local treats right off the vine as a snack as I wait my turn or as I sail by.
This corner of the island is so idyllic, mountainous, lush and picturesque that I almost miss that now I’m on the last line, I’m sailing hundreds of metres above the ground flying at 65 kilometres per hour across a deep gorge.
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Having had my fill of flying for just about a lifetime, I start my journey south. Route 130 would take me to the lava fields, which as it sounds, is a barren, unearthly place devoid of any vegetation unlike the rest of this idyllic place. As the highway turns to a single lane paved road, then into a pure gravel path, I instantly think to myself that I probably should’ve taken the extra insurance out on the hire car. After a good 30 minutes pushing my poor Toyota across what looks like a Martian parking lot, I finally reach my final place of rest: Hakuma House.
It may be odd to travel to see nothing, but that is exactly what an overnight adventure to Hakuma House is; nothing. The lodging is a modest, two level timber home that sits atop a massive lava flow. As I stand at the edge of my abode for the evening, around me there is absolutely nothing. No grass, no trees, no water, no mountains, no sound. It’s blissful nothingness. Tonight I’m sleeping on what is the world’s freshest skin and it’s an experience like no other.
As the sun sets, I draw a bath in the outdoor clawfoot iron tub and put a bit of shampoo in to make it feel fancy. I extinguish the deafening sound of running water and slip into the tub looking out into the void of an ashen black lava flow horizon, where the only sign I’m not just floating in outer space is the complete lack of stars hidden from the fluctuating weather patterns.
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For just a minute of soaking in my private bath, I completely forget where I am and I let the emptiness fill me in a wonderful way. For a brief moment, I think I understand what it is like to live here, to be Hawaiian, where nature consumes you and is such a protagonist in everyday life. The things you would worry about in other places don’t apply here because it is like another world.
In Hawaiʻi, there is only nature, her needs, and your desire to fulfil them. Once you come to realise that on your next visit to Hawaiʻi, you’ll get the holiday from yourself that you never knew you needed.
Hot 5 CRAZIEST DAY TRIPS …
These are the weirdest tours on earth.
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Have you ever wanted to simulate the finer points of an illegal border crossing – that is, being shot at, verbally abused, told to get on your hands and knees and running for your life?
No, we haven’t either. But like you, we’re curious. Caminata Nocturna (The Night Walk) is the experience that simulates the dangers of crossing that famous dotted line between Mexico and the United States.
The dangers are real for those that try to cross each year (an extraordinary 1.6 million arrests are made at the Mexico/U.S. border each year). For takers of this night tour, it is an adrenaline-inducing glimpse into another world, perhaps reminding us of the luck in our corner that this ‘simulation’ has never been our reality.
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In the middle of the Karakum Desert in Turkmenistan is a big, fiery crater. And no-one really knows how it got there.
The Davaza Gas Crater, or the ‘Gates of Hell’ as its been called, is likely the remnants of a Soviet experiment gone wrong. It’s a collapsed natural gas field which has been burning for over 50 years.
Nowadays it’s a popular day-trip or overnight camping spot. It’s an extraordinary sight – a great ball of fire burning in the ground, with nothing but desert surrounding as far as the eye can see. We guarantee you won’t find anywhere else like this in the world, although you might want to get there soon: Turkmenistan’s President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow visited the site early in 2022, and asked for scientists to seal off the area to prevent the spread of unhealthy gases (he did do the same in 2010 though, but hasn’t yet found a way to get rid of it).
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It’s 4.20 all day every day in Jamaica, freely as weed grows on the idyllic Caribbean island.
Embrace your inner Bob Marley for a day with one of a number of different experiences that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else: a ganja farm tour where you get high … up the mountainside, explore plantations and learn how to roll a Rasta-worthy joint. There’s morning goodies in the form of the ‘Wake & Bake’ tour or a sunset cruise with snorkelling, plus unlimited spliff, muffins that aren’t muffins, and more.
There are even ganja resorts for you to spend a couple of weeks, if you want. Take it easy, mon.
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When it comes to darkness, Dark Tourism probably doesn’t get much darker than serial killer tours.
Jeffrey Dahmer murdered at least 17 people in unfathomably gruesome fashion from the early 1980s through to his capture in the early 1990s. Now, he has a tour dedicated to him: the Cream City Cannibal Tour retraces his steps around Milwaukee for seven of the murders.
Finding interest in where a serial killer conducted their worst business occupies an especially strange corner of the human brain. Whatever your opinions on it, it has morphed into a semi-popular form of tourism, explored in depth by Kiwi journalist David Farrier on Netflix’s Dark Tourist series.
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Most of this planet tries to hide from death. Not in Varanasi, India.
Two ceremonial cremation ghats are open 24/7 along the Ganges river in Varanasi, and burn hundreds of bodies every day in plain sight for everyone to see. The belief is that if a departed’s ashes are laid in the Ganges at Varanasi, holy place that it is, their soul will be transported to heaven and escape the cycle of rebirth (and thus coming back as a cricket or a fly).
While this might sound a little gruesome, it is impressive how openly the people here welcome death. A sunrise float down the Ganges in a little row boat may well be the most spiritual thing you ever do.
Estimates say 100,000 bodies – either fully or partially cremated – are tossed into the river each year. Don’t fall in.
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GOOD GORGED
We uncover a side of Canada for the goosebumps and the tastebuds.
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Canada is the type of destination that reaches into your soul.
Its mind bending landscapes are otherworldly and the diversity of experiences right across the country’s massive compass can make a traveller feel like they’re in ten different countries, not ten different provinces.
But what makes the second largest country in the world extra special? It’s because with every gorge, canyon, turquoise lake, snow-capped mountain range and waterfall, likewise its historic cities are equally filled with hyper-local, gastronomic adventures to tickle your tastebuds.
Have you ever been drunk on beers made from icebergs? What about an adventure searching out the best Poutine in all of Montreal? Did you know Vancouver’s coffee scene now rivals that of Melbourne, Australia?
For food, fun and frivolity all in the one adventure, Canada has it all. Here’s just a handful of provinces and territories where you can absolutely lose yourself in nature, a food coma, or at the bottom of a pint glass.
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BIG GORGE
On Vancouver Island you can ride on six zip lines through the ancient rock canyon of the Winchee (Kennedy) River. An eco-adventure not to be missed, pair this wild adventure with a stay on a remote floating lodge. Knight Inlet lodge is an awesome place for grizzly bear spotting in the summer.
BE GORGE-D
For a nice cup of Joe, look no further than the cobblestoned streets of Gastown, Vancouver. Cute, stylish and modern takes on the world’s favourite caffeinated drink are literally on every corner. The coffee culture here rivals that of Melbourne and Milan. But for something a little extra, why not try Nemesis where your barista will happily pair your coffee with a complimentary cookie. Delish.
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BIG GORGE
Canada’s capital is home to the famed Rideau Canal which connects the city of Ottaway to Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence River at Kingston. At 202 kilometres long, you can hire kayaks or canoes and explore Ottawa’s historic locks on the city’s outskirts. In winter, the canal transforms the world’s largest ice skating rink.
BE GORGE-D
With its cool climate and some of the highest snowfall of any country Canada wouldn’t be anyone’s first thought when choosing a wine destination. Yet, Ontario is developing a reputation for producing excellent quality wine, with their own unique specialty – Ice Wine (Eiswein). Ice Wine is made from grapes that were frozen before being harvested. We recommend a Cabernet Franc from Peller Estates Winery, best enjoyed on a lounge carved out of ice at the same winery’s igloo-like 10Below Icewine Lounge.
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BIG GORGE
Enjoy a trek across the arctic tundra and tucked up against a log fire at the Seal River Heritage Lodge in Churchill during this epic summer safari through Manitoba. Summer in Churchill is the best time to see beluga whales and polar bears who have just come off the ice.
BE GORGE-D
Could Winnipeg be home to the best curry and Roti in the world? Travellers to Famena’s Famous Roti & Curry in the city centre seem to think so. This low-key eatery in the city centre is seriously hyped up on Google reviews and serves up Caribbean roti-wrapped curries that melt in your mouth. Sit at the circular counter, or do what lots of locals do and simply stand outside at the kitchen vents to take in the spiced aromas.
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BIG GORGE
A UNESCO World Heritage Site covering 1,805 square kilometres Gros Morne National Park on Newfoundland’s wild west coast is about as big and gorgeous as it gets on Canada’s eastern seaboard. Hike to the top of the 10 Mile Pond Gorge for the sort of views that will take your breath away. Just a three hour drive north, you’ll also find L’anse aux Meadows Historical Site which is a Norse (Viking) settlement dating to approximately 1,000 years ago.
BE GORGE-D
Amongst the cobblestoned streets and delightful jelly bean-coloured houses of St John’s (the capital city of Newfoundland) are a smattering of beautiful, modern restaurants exemplifying the island’s farm-to-table approach and its epicurean capabilities. Perch yourself up at Chinched Restaurant, which is a deli-cum-bar serving mouth watering charcuterie boards, sausage platters, local oysters and arguably the best cocktails in all of Canada.
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BIG GORGE
Get vertical and climb high above the Gros Bras valley on the Mont-du-lac-des-Cygnes Via Ferrata. One of the biggest Via Ferrata courses outside Europe, this is an experience not for the faint of heart.
BE GORGE-D
‘Poutine’ is Quebec slang for “a mess” and if you’ve seen a typical appropriation of this iconic dish in Montreal, it’s not too far from the truth. And there’s no better place than Montreal to try your first ever poutine (a dish of hot chips and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy). But not all poutines are created equal and no visit to this city is complete without a late-night line up (usually a little tipsy) outside La Banquise. With 30 different types of poutine on offer, there’s also craft beer on tap here to wash it all down.
get in the know Canada has less gravity than anywhere else in the world, which means you’ll be lighter here than anywhere else. Space for another round of poutine then!
LIFE AT THE EDGE
The awe-inspiring landscapes surrounding Iceland’s Vatnajökull glacier are a reminder to grab life by the reins.
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We slam our pickaxes down into the ice, taking a breather from our rabid scramble up the glacier.
Suddenly, a thunderous cracking sound bounces off the mountains on either side of us. Our chatter dies away as we whip our heads up in unison, scanning the cavalcade of jagged ice above for signs of movement.
When nothing stirs, our guide Kasha breaks the silence.
“Let’s hope the Öræfajökull volcano doesn’t erupt today!” she laughs, picking up her axe and turning to face the looming ice wall. Everyone is oddly quiet as we fall in step behind her.
It’s a startling reminder of where we are: hiking across the largest glacier in Europe in one of the wildest countries in the world. The glacier, Vatnajökull, is unfathomably huge, covering around 10 percent of Iceland, complete with several of the country’s most explosive volcanoes beneath. It’s the perfect place in Iceland for thrilling adventures – exactly what I’m here to experience.
“That’s one of the best things about being in Iceland; nowhere is safe from natural disaster. But as we like to say here, þetta reddast, which means ‘It’ll all be OK in the end!’” giggles Kasha.
This is Iceland’s unofficial motto, and Kasha’s easy-going attitude in the face of such powerful nature is a common theme on my trip around the southeast corner of the country.
It’s here that offers the easiest access to the glacier and the landscapes that surround it, all protected as part of Vatnajökull National Park. And despite a booming tourism industry in Iceland, the number of people out this far from Reykjavik have dwindled, congregating around a few select sights.
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One of those is the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where giant icebergs are pulled across the large body of water by underwater currents and Iceland’s fierce winds. I skip the crowds by visiting after dinner; in summer, Iceland enjoys almost 24 hours of daylight, making it easy to avoid the large crowds touring late at night. Near midnight, I watch as the golden glow of ‘sunset’ unfolds across the water, in the background the faint cries of birds and the splash of seals as they frolic in the calm water.
The next day sees me arrive at the shores of a different glacier lagoon, this one far more unknown: Heinabergslón. Together with my guide Óskar, we set out to explore the lagoon in kayaks, paddling out as a mist claws its way across the giant icebergs. For a few hours, we glide between the chunks of ice, admire pocked caves, and drift underneath large ice overhangs. The scenery is otherworldly.
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“Looks like a good place to land over there,” muses Óskar, making a beeline for a large iceberg. He steers his kayak into the ice, the nose crashing up onto ‘land’. He jumps out and motions for me to do the same. I paddle hard, lifting my oar up as the nose of my kayak edges up onto the glacier, the bottom scraping as Óskar pulls me onto the iceberg.
We strap on crampons to our gumboots, the sharp spikes letting us freely roam without fear of slipping. “This is the only place where it’s safe to walk on icebergs,” says Óskar. “Here, they get larger towards the bottom, making them stable. In the other glacier lagoons, it’s the opposite. They can flip at any time.”
It’s another reminder that Iceland is a country not to be trifled with. Each day I’m dwarfed by my surroundings, driving up dirt roads that end at dramatic glacier tongues, towering mountains all around, hardly another soul to be seen.
On my final day, more of the same. With my guide Siggi I’m venturing into the Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve, an area next to the glacier thick with twisting valleys, birch forests, and rushing glacial rivers. It’s one of Iceland’s last wilderness frontiers. “Only around 600 to 700 people come hiking here each summer,” Siggi points out. “I think you’re going to love it!”
He’s not wrong – the place is fantastic. We bump along rough dirt tracks while Siggi catches me up on the gossip of the area: who sold what house, for how much, family feuds – he knows everything and everyone. That’s the nature of an island like this.
Things get more serious as we start driving across the shifting black sand of the valley floor, fording steely-grey glacial rivers. I get out of the car at various points to explore on foot, winding my way through birch forests and alongside rivers, even startling a reindeer.
My final hike for the day is a doozy. Siggi lets me out in a valley and agrees to meet me on the other side of a mountain. I scramble up the steep slope, arriving at a windswept and barren plateau with my camera in my hand.
I feel suddenly vulnerable, aware that I have no phone reception and that the weather in Iceland can change in an instant. With dark clouds at my back, I step up the pace across the plateau, the trail now dwindling into nothing, leaving me to scout for landmarks Siggi had mentioned.
‘þetta reddast’ I tell myself, adopting the Icelandic motto as I push on.
Despite the nagging worry that I might be heading in the wrong direction, it’s hard not to be impressed by my surroundings. The panoramas from here are incredible. I can’t see any roads, hear any cars, or see a single house; I could be the only person in this entire nature reserve, or the entire country. It’s exhilarating.
I do make it back to Siggi, but the feeling of being alone in a vast wilderness stays with me long after our day is done.
These landscapes aren’t simply meant to be admired and photographed. Instead, it’s about being humbled by the gargantuan nature of this country which immediately puts our life and all our worries into perspective.
get in the know Vatnajökull National Park is the largest protected area in Europe.
FROM EAST TO WEST
It’s no secret that Australians love visiting the USA in the winter.
With over 400 ski resorts to choose from, the country has a buffet of snow and cold weather experiences that will have you either chewing deep powder, climbing glaciers or kicking back in a luxurious mountain treehouse.
From the Rocky Mountains in the country’s wild west to the highest (underrated) peaks of the Appalachians in its east, here’s 16 unmissable snow experiences for an unforgettable winter spent in the USA.
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Steamboat Powdercats, Steamboat Springs, Colorado
Cat skiing offers all the same remote, untracked fun as heliskiing without the noise, chaos and the skiing abilities of James Bond.
With professional backcountry guides, as well as plush, heated snow cats, Steamboat Powdercats takes advantage of the literally trademarked Champagne Powder® in Colorado’s Buffalo Pass.
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Mad River Glen, Vermont
The east coast mountains don’t get nearly as much airtime as the Rocky’s, but Mad River Glen in Vermont should be on your radar.
It has some of the most challenging and diverse terrain in the country, but a hard day of riding is perfectly complemented by the fire inside Stark’s Pub. This watering hole has regularly been named one of America’s best snow pubs for post slope brews. Mad River Glen is a skier-owned cooperative resort with an old-fashioned vibe which we love.
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Woodward, Park City, Utah
A favourite American winter pastime, ‘tubing’ (which involves sliding down a ramp of ice in an inflatable inner tube) is now an extreme sport at Woodward in Park City, Utah.
With two magic carpets that take you to the top of Utah’s longest and wildest tubing slide, this activity is perfect for those who want all the extreme speeds from a snow experience without the need to ever strap on a pair of skis or a snowboard.
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The Little Nel, Aspen Colorado
Perfection is not a word that the get lost team dishes out regularly when it comes to hotels.
But Aspen’s Little Nel certainly ticks all the boxes for the ultimate destination in opulence. This incredible ski-in-and-ski-out hotel is the haunt of celebrities and millionaires from around the planet. Our favourite is the personal ski concierge and the hidden, invitation-only wine cellar.
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Sun Valley Resort, Ketchum, Idaho
Sun Valley is a true year-round resort but it’s in winter when it really sparkles.
Built in 1936, Sun Valley in the city of Ketchum is not only the oldest ski destination in America, it is also home to the country’s first chair lift. There’s a sense of Hollywood at Sun Valley Lodge and the foyer alone makes you feel like you’ve just walked onto a movie set. But don’t let the opulence fool you, everyone here is going to be your best friend by the end of the trip and that is the real secret to a visit to Sun Valley. Get ready for the warm Idaho hugs.
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Snow King Mountain Resort, Jackson, Wyoming
For decades, Snow King Mountain in Jackson has been overshadowed by its much more popular neighbour, Jackson Hole.
But with its quintessential local-feel and zero lift lines, you’ll be able to bust out a few trackless runs early one morning without the usual Wyoming winter crowds. But don’t cut anyone off here or you might end up coming to blows with a local. Remember, this is their mountain and you’re only visiting.
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Mt Hood Skibowl, Oregon
We can’t do night skiing here in Australia because the risk of death and injury on our icy runs is just too high, but in the US it’s an institution.
At Mt Hood in Oregon, we’re not just talking about a few bunny runs flanked by magic carpets. This is America’s largest night ski area, where all the lifts have lighting (sometimes neon lighting) meaning there’s 36 runs to choose from right through to the end of Spring. Go get it, powderhounds!
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Matanuska Glacier, Alaska
With over two decades of teaching under their belts, MICA Guides are experts when it comes to taking newbies climbing on the Matanuska Glacier in Alaska.
After donning your gear and a quick briefing, you’ll hike over an hour across a breathtakingly beautiful turquoise glacier before reaching some simple to moderate ice slopes designed to help you refine your climbing techniques. But beware, this experience is only for those with ice in their veins. It’s tough, but well worth it.
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Timberline Lodge, Oregon
This luxury ski lodge in Oregon’s picturesque mountains has all the hallmarks of an archetypal American ski experience.
Timber clad rooms, roaring open fireplaces and snow draped roof pitches. It is both so beautiful and eerie that it was also used as the exterior of the Overlook Hotel in the 1980 horror thriller, The Shining. We’d recommend staying away from room 217 (notable from King’s book) and instead opting for one of the Premiere Fireplace rooms.
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DruBru | Snoqualmie Pass, Washington
With a beer list that would rival most German beer halls, this local Washington microbrewery in the shadow of Snoqualmie Pass brews its award-winning craft beers from fresh mountain water and serves them to thirsty skiers and snowboarders in their huge beer hall with floor-to-ceiling windows and views of the ski area.
Try the DruBru IPA, or a full flight if you’re unsure … heck, try them all. We won’t judge.
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Ponderosa Treehouse, Whitefish Mountain, Montana
When we say that this magical treehouse is located on Whitefish Mountain Ski Resort, we mean that it is actually ON Whitefish Mountain’s famous Hope Slope.
That’s right. You can ski to the Hope Slope lift from your bed to the ski lift in less than 30 seconds. With two huge bedrooms, including an epic star filled loft for the kiddos, your legs are going to love finishing a big day of riding and falling into the private hot tub.
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Alpino Vino, Telluride
Close your eyes, breathe in that fresh mountain air and from this altitude your brain will trick you into thinking you’re actually in the Dolomite region of Northern Italy.
Instead, this quaint European wine bar and restaurant is in Telluride, Colorado. Alpino Vino is the highest altitude restaurant in all of North America and has an all Italian lunch menu with pastas, pizzas and extensive wine pairing. Enjoy the views of the Wilson Range while you can, because the way the wine flows here, things can get a bit blurry after 6pm.
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Fly Fishing, Steamboat Springs, Colorado
The fish don’t stop biting during the winter in Colorado. In fact, some would argue this is the best time to hit the Yampa River when the crowds are down.
You can opt for a private guide through Steamboat Flyfisher to provide all your boots, waders, rods, reels and flies but you are advised to dress warmer than you would if you were skiing.
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Creekside Yurt Dinner, Midway Utah
Snowshoeing gets a bad rap. But that’s often because it adds a layer of complexity to the already laborious task of walking.
But on this magical evening of guided snowshoeing through a forest lit by starlight, you’ll be finishing your short snowshoe at your own private yurt deep in the Wasatch Mountain State Park, sitting down inside for a four course meal, endless booze and roasted marshmallows around an already lit fire.
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Jackson Hole to Granite Hot Springs, Wyoming
Get on and hang on! This wild adventure through the snowy Gros Ventre wilderness starts with an early pick up at your hotel.
Your team of dogs (and your sled ‘Musher’) will guide you through Jackson Hole’s most iconic scenery in an exhilarating, once-in-a-lifetime adventure. The team from Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours work with a hybrid breed of Alaskan sled dog racers and Northern Huskies who will be responds to your commands by the end of the day. Bring your togs, because this adventure takes you all the way from Jackson to Granite Hot Springs for a much welcome soak, before returning back to your hotel in the afternoon.
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Cloud Nine, Aspen Colorado
At 3pm everyday, Cloud Nine in Aspen becomes a hedonistic melting pot of debauchery and we absolutely love everything about it.
In no other ski town in the world would this sort of drinking shenanigans be possible, let alone deemed appropriate. Revel in pure joy as overly expensive bottles of champagne are popped and sprayed over you and your guests while you dance and watch the sun drop over incredible mountain views.
HOT 5 Drives
DRIVING THE WORLD’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY ROADS
The iconic, the beautiful and the downright sketchy — five unbelievable roads for road trips you’ll never forget.
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PAKISTAN
Dusty, rocky landscapes meet the locals and the intrepid types that journey along the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan.
The 1,300 kilometre long highway is also one of the world’s highest, reaching a peak of 4,714 metres — high enough to take you halfway up Mount Everest.
It connects Pakistan to China and although the landscapes on this route are a little more monotone than others on this list, there is more than enough colour to be found in the locals along the way who are tending to flocks and working roadside stalls. Not to mention the lorries covered in bright, epic art.
If you’re bold enough to make this journey you’re probably bold enough to take on the Hussani Hanging Bridge: a truly-hectic 200-metre bridge of precariously low-detail suspended above the Hunza River.
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AUSTRALIA
Are you a waver? A finger lifter? Single or double honk?
These are the critical decisions you must be prepared for on the rare occasion you pass another driver on the Nullarbor (Eyre Highway), one of the world’s longest straight roads, in Australia’s south-west.
The word Nullarbor means ‘no trees’ in Latin and they’re not kidding around – when get lost drove the 1,664 kilometre stretch in 2021 we saw no trees, no animals, and not a single sign of life, save for the excitement of each service station spaced a few hundred kilometres apart. This really is the outback.
There’s a golf hole at each of these, giving you the opportunity to play the Nullabor Links: the world’s longest round of golf at 1,365 kilometres long.
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BOLIVIA
Carretera de los Yungas, in the west of Bolivia, is much better known by a different name: Death Road. Not the sort of title that inspires confidence.
This infamous, albeit perilous, 60 kilometre stretch connecting La Paz with the Yungas region weaves through fog and around 600-metre-high cliffs, and has frequently been referred to as the world’s most dangerous road.
Parts of the two-way road are just three metres wide. To put that into perspective, the width of one Toyota Camry is 1.85 metres…yep, let that one sink in.
Still, the road has been drawing cycling, motorcycling and longboarding maniacs from around the world for a years, all wanting to say they’ve conquered the world’s most dangerous road.
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ICELAND
Northern Lights roadtrip, anyone?
There’s no need for streetlights when you’ve got Aurora Borealis up above to light the way.
Every corner you turn on Iceland’s Ring Road feels like it could be the front cover image of an Icelandic tourism campaign, such is the frequency of unique natural wonders that exist here.
The Ring Road is a 1,322 kilometre circulation of the entire country, and the perfect route to take if you’re pining to get to all of the extraordinary spots in this extraordinary country.
Road trips don't come much more attractive.
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JAPAN
Japan is reopening to the world, although one section that won’t be open just yet is the Japanese Snow Corridor, a seasonal road which snakes through towering 20-metre-high walls of snow.
Heavy snowfall blocks the road in winter, and the corridor only re-opens in spring (March to May).
It sits along the 90 kilometre road aptly named Tateyama Kurobe Alpine — ‘The Roof of Japan’ — not a bad way to take a break from the slopes.
INTO THE GREAT CANADIAN UNKNOWN
It’s not just limited to the forests, mountains, islands, beaches and deserts either, there is wilderness to be found in the cities as well.
We’ve discovered seven truly unbelievable experiences to be had right across Canada’s vast expanse:
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ALBERTA
Like the lost city of Atlantis, Minnewanka Landing is a ghost town that sits beneath a picturesque lake in Banff National Park, Alberta.
Those brave enough to take on the icy cold waters are able to dive through a once-thriving town, that was flooded in 1941 following construction of a nearby dam, making for a magical, if a little spooky, diving destination.
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YUKON TERRITORY
Yukon is a place of extremes, and so it comes as only a minor surprise to find that there is a desert located here — the world’s smallest.
An excellent stop on a road trip up the Klondike Highway, the Carcross Desert is where the mountains and desert meet. At just 600 metres wide, it’s hardly the Sahara, but there’s still plenty of space to sandboard and drive an ATV, if that’s your thing.
It sits in the company of a lake and mountains, the latter intercepting northeast winds and therefore any rain that it would otherwise receive.
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NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR
Iceberg Alley is the appropriately named stretch of water along the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, where icebergs the size of your house float freely in the water.
This extraordinary phenomenon happens every spring, as the island thaws out from a long winter — late May and early June are the best times for berg viewing.
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NOVA SCOTIA
Why picnic when you could heli-picnic instead?
From Halifax in Canada’s eastern province of Nova Scotia, take a chopper over to Sambro Island, which has a population of just one, and that one is a lighthouse.
On a private beach, explore a secluded cove and enjoy a small feast — wine, charcuterie and cheeses all sourced locally, as well as a personal sommelier to talk you through the decadence.
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VANCOUVER ISLAND
From the far-east to the far-west.
Free Spirit Spheres bill themselves as ‘the most unique accommodation in the world’ and to be honest, it’s hard to argue with them.
The spheres are built from fibreglass and the native spitka spurce tree, and are suspended metres in the air in forests around Vancouver Island, British Columbia. This really is living in the wild.
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CALGARY
Pipeline, Bells Beach, Uluwatu…Calgary?
Surfing is not something you’d usually associate with Canada, but in Calgary, Alberta, river surfing has emerged as an accessible way to get waves. Natural and man-made breaks have sprung up across town, with several a little further out, providing rippable sections for all levels of skill — dust off your wetty and start practicing that shaka.
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NORTHWEST TERRITORIES
It is extraordinary to think that as well as being thrilling on the ground, in the water and in its trees, mountains and dunes, Canada’s sky is something to behold as well. Arguably the best place on earth to see the shimmering Northern Lights is at Blachford Lake Lodge in Yellowknife. The lodge is located directly underneath the auroral oval, and is accessible only by bush plane or skis in the winter. This means there’s no light pollution from nearby towns, cities, cabins, or road traffic. Sit back at a lakeside cabin and let the magic unfurl in front of you.