Australia

Lux-adventure in Marysville

Marysville is known as base camp for the winter wonderland that is Lake Mountain, but under the snow another layer of adventures.

We’re only an hour out of Melbourne when it starts. My shoulders drop, my breaths get longer, and the phone signal gets patchy. We’re on our way to Marysville for a cheeky mid-week adventure and I can feel my stress levels evaporating.

We pass through Healesville, which may now be on the urban fringe but is still pretty enough to hint at what’s to come. The scenery changes to paddocks and wineries and then, the biggest signal of all that we are nearing our destination, we hit the Black Spur. A crazy twisting ribbon of a road flanked by lush tree ferns and Mountain Ash trees that are old enough and tall enough to have you question your own mortality.

Then we turn into the picture-book cute township of Marysville, nestled in the Yarra Valley and surrounded by the stunning mountains of The Great Dividing Range.

For countless Victorians, Marysville is where they had their first taste of snow. It’s the closest town to Lake Mountain Alpine Resort, which offers snow play and toboggan runs as well as more than 30 kilometres of cross-country skiing and snowshoe trails.

But while hordes descend on the town during the winter months, it’s the shoulder season that I’m here for, because there's more to this place than snow. From winding hikes through silver wattle and snow gum forested hills to challenging mountain bike trails — Marysville is an adventure playground.

The drive to the top of Lake Mountain is, ironically, much more chill without the winter hordes. Not so the route down, if you take on the challenge of the darling of the mountain bike runs, Cascades Trail. The 25km trail from the summit to the township involves a 1,442m descent that is dotted with rocks, wooden walkways, jumps and sharp turns.

Less experienced riders do have other, less gnarly options, including Kestrel Loop, an easy 2km ride and the bike adventures aren’t restricted to Lake Mountain. There are picturesque routes for road cyclists leaving from town, and an offshoot of the 134km Great Victorian Rail Trail begins in nearby Alexandra.

Then there are the hikes. From Lake Mountain, you can snatch incredible vistas of the township and the Cathedral Ranges. You’ll walk past snow gums, dainty alpine mint bushes in full bloom, and perky blue green native grasses.

Or hike the picturesque trail from town through the forests to Steavenson’s Falls to earn a stunning view of the 84-metre-high waterfall. The stream is so strong that it is able, via its own small hydroelectric plant, to power the lights that illuminate it from dusk each evening – it’s worth the nighttime return visit.

Where the forest’s native vegetation eschew autumnal colours, the township’s maples and pin oakes embrace them, and the sight of the trees’ autumn shades makes for such a stunning picture, it can be dangerous – on the outskirts of town, Gould Memorial Drive is famed for its poplar trees, with the leaves an insta-worthy sight in autumn. Tourists regularly ignore the 100kmph signs as they stand in the middle on the road to take the perfect shot.

We get our pics, safely, then retreat to the luxury of the 100-room Peppers Marysville hotel—because adventure and luxury make very comfy bedfellows.

Now owned by the Accor Group, the hotel was one of the first big projects to be funded in the aftermath of the 2009 bushfires that devastated the town, and it makes a statement that Marysville, population 500, punches well above its weight. Taking up a large chunk of the main street, the newly renovated hotel offers the region’s largest conference centre, restaurant and bar, day spa, tennis court, heated lap pool, gym and sauna.

Our corner suite is divine. It has a large living area with sliding glass doors to the balcony with views of the mountains.  A bottle of red wine is waiting, along with a platter with cheese and grapes, which is a pretty perfect way to end the day’s activities.

Peppers has catering to adventurers nailed. It has a hot water bike wash station and secure bike workshops for repairs or servicing for cyclists. In winter, families can snag a carrot to take up the mountain to make an authentic snowman and take advantage of an early dinner sitting to cater for exhausted children.

But for adults, the real sweeteners are the heavenly facials and massages available at the dreamy day spa (thanks Phil) and delicious seasonal meals at Andiamo Restaurant and Bar, where the menu’s offerings, including a two-hour braised lamb ragu with rigatoni, tomato and parmesan cheese, firmly hint at Chef Francesco La Mazza’s Italian training. The stone baked pizzas melt in your mouth, and I would recommend sitting around the outdoor firepit, savouring the smell of woodsmoke whilst indulging in a perfectly mixed cocktail or two (espresso martini anyone?).

So, when the leaves are turning and the air is just crisp enough to be invigorating, rather than icy, consider a trip to Marysville. I’ll be at the bar.